Cover image of Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to imp... Read more

Ranked #1

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Episode #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments

Episode #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments

Get ready for some breakthrough research-based information that, I believe, is revolutionary for hard-training climbers!... Read more

1 Apr 2019

1hr 9mins

Ranked #2

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Episode #39: Climbing Injuries: A Perfect Storm Brewing

Episode #39: Climbing Injuries: A Perfect Storm Brewing

This is fourth in a series on sinew training with a specific focus on climbing injuries and prevention. Incidence of cli... Read more

4 Sep 2019

1hr 21mins

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Ranked #3

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Episode #10: Fingerboard Training to Increasing Maximum Grip Strength

Episode #10: Fingerboard Training to Increasing Maximum Grip Strength

In terms of physical attributes, increasing relative peak finger force is central to taking your climbing to the next le... Read more

1 Mar 2017

55mins

Ranked #4

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Episode #8: Tips for Effective Winter Gym Training

Episode #8: Tips for Effective Winter Gym Training

Welcome to the launch of the new Training for Climbing podcast! This is one full hour of rich training-for-climbing cont... Read more

1 Jan 2017

1hr 3mins

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Ranked #5

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Episode #21: Energy System Training (part 1) - Alactic Power Training

Episode #21: Energy System Training (part 1) - Alactic Power Training

This is the first of a two-part FIVE-part in-depth look at energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing y... Read more

26 Mar 2018

1hr 16mins

Ranked #6

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Episode #32: Success Strategies for Peak Performance

Episode #32: Success Strategies for Peak Performance

New Year's is a great time to think deeply about your goals, re-evaluate your course and strategy, and perhaps even rein... Read more

10 Jan 2019

1hr 7mins

Ranked #7

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Episode #9: 5 Reasons Why Strong Fingers Matter

Episode #9: 5 Reasons Why Strong Fingers Matter

While climbing is, first and foremost, a mental and technical skill sport, long-term improvement—and pursuing your genet... Read more

2 Feb 2017

20mins

Ranked #8

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Episode #23: Energy System Training (part 2) - Anaerobic Lactic System

Episode #23: Energy System Training (part 2) - Anaerobic Lactic System

This is the second in a five-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts to... Read more

6 May 2018

57mins

Ranked #9

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Episode #41 - Personalized Nutrition for Training and Performance

Episode #41 - Personalized Nutrition for Training and Performance

If you're serious about training and climbing your best, then you must be serious about performance nutrition. The foods... Read more

20 Nov 2019

1hr 16mins

Ranked #10

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Episode #26: Energy System Training (part 4) - Aerobic Power!

Episode #26: Energy System Training (part 4) - Aerobic Power!

This is the fourth in a series on using bioenergetic energy systems  as a guiding model to train more effectively. This ... Read more

21 Jun 2018

1hr 29mins

Ranked #11

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Episode #24: Energy System Training (part 3) - Anaerobic Capacity Training

Episode #24: Energy System Training (part 3) - Anaerobic Capacity Training

This is the third in a four-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts for... Read more

11 May 2018

1hr

Ranked #12

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Episode #28: Energy System Training (part 5) - The Art of the Science

Episode #28: Energy System Training (part 5) - The Art of the Science

This is the fifth and final episode in our study of Energy System Training theory and application. In this 90-minute tou... Read more

28 Aug 2018

1hr 28mins

Ranked #13

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Episode #19: Tips to Improve Your Training, Productivitiy, & Performance in the New Year!

Episode #19: Tips to Improve Your Training, Productivitiy, & Performance in the New Year!

I hope you’ll find this New Year’s podcast informative, thought-provoking, and mobilizing! After all, uncommon success c... Read more

31 Dec 2017

1hr 17mins

Ranked #14

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Episode #14: Performance Climbing Tips for Weekend Warriors

Episode #14: Performance Climbing Tips for Weekend Warriors

If you’re a passionate climber who works full-time (or in school), then you likely train indoors during the week with th... Read more

1 Jul 2017

1hr 21mins

Ranked #15

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Episode #12: The "10-4 Rule" for Effective Projecting & Steady Improvement

Episode #12: The "10-4 Rule" for Effective Projecting & Steady Improvement

A question I'm often asked is how much time—or attempts—should  you put into a project route, before taking a break and ... Read more

1 May 2017

30mins

Ranked #16

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Episode #17: How to Manage the Fear of Falling

Episode #17: How to Manage the Fear of Falling

If you occasionally struggle with the fear of falling, then this podcast is for you! While the fear of falling is most a... Read more

25 Oct 2017

1hr 19mins

Ranked #17

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Episode #20: Autoregulation, Running & Climbing, and Hörst Family Winter Training

Episode #20: Autoregulation, Running & Climbing, and Hörst Family Winter Training

This episode covers a lot of territory…beginning with a look at the very unique Hörst family winter training program. Ne... Read more

18 Feb 2018

1hr 13mins

Ranked #18

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Episode #30: IRCRA Research Highlights & Training Tips

Episode #30: IRCRA Research Highlights & Training Tips

0:25 – Preview of this and upcoming podcasts. 5:55 - Overview of this summer's International Rock Climbing Researchers A... Read more

3 Nov 2018

1hr 9mins

Ranked #19

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Episode #13: Structuring Your Off-Season & In-Season Training for Peak Performance

Episode #13: Structuring Your Off-Season & In-Season Training for Peak Performance

Climbing is one of the most complex sports on this third rock from the sun, and training for climbing is an extraordinar... Read more

2 Jun 2017

1hr 3mins

Ranked #20

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Episode #11: Training for Climbing: The Past, The Present, The Future.

Episode #11: Training for Climbing: The Past, The Present, The Future.

Podcast #11 Training: The Past, The Present, The Future This episode is more of a free-form podcast rather than  single-... Read more

1 Apr 2017

39mins

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