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The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

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TBP 061 :: Jonathan Siegrist's Minimal Training Regime and Meticulous Skin Care

About Jonathan Siegrist Jonathan Siegrist (or J-Star) is a 31-year-old professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. He grew up with his ever-psyched climbing dad, Bob Siegrist, trying to get him to love the sport as much as he did. He didn't really take to it until his late teens, though. Since then, he's become one of the world's most prolific sport climbers. To date, he's climbed four 5.15a's, sixteen 5.14d's and hundreds of other 5.14s. He's also bouldered up to V14, sent sketchy PG-13 and R-rated trad climbs, and has sent 5.14 trad big walls. (Read his recent write-up on Arc-teryx about his ascent of Direct Dunn Westbay, a 5.14 multi-pitch route at 13,400 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park). He's also bolted a bunch of routes of all grades in Colorado, Idaho, and beyond. Besides all that, he's one of my best friends, and I think he's one of the most motivated, positive climbers I've ever met. Aside from being an incredible climber, his genuine gratitude for life and hunger for adventure are admirable. Jonathan Siegrist Interview Details In this interview with Jonathan Siegrist, we talk about how his training has evolved since our first podcast interview a couple years ago. But mostly, we talk about his attitude towards climbing, how he takes care of his skin, and what's next for him. Why counting # of tries is pointless His meticulous skin care How to heal a split tip Body weight and performance (real talk) Why he doesn't fingerboard much anymore Bouldering as training Jonathan Siegrist Links Jonathan on Facebook Jonathan on Instagram @jonathansiegrist Jonathan's website: www.jstarinorbit.com My 1st Podcast Interview with Jonathan Videos of him climbing (lots) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. FrictionLabs Discount FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Just visit www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta to get the discounts. [button link="http://frictionlabs.com/pages/training-beta" color="green" size="large" type="" shape="" target="_self" title="" gradient_colors="|" gradient_hover_colors="|" accent_color="" accent_hover_color="" bevel_color="" border_width="1px" shadow="" icon="" icon_divider="yes" icon_position="left" modal="" animation_type="0" animation_direction="down" animation_speed="0.1" class="" id=""]Get Some Chalk[/button]   Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

1hr 14mins

21 Sep 2016

Rank #1

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TBP 080 :: Steve Bechtel on How to Create Your Own Training Plan

1hr 16mins

1 Jun 2017

Rank #2

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TBP 088 :: How Adam Ondra Sent The World's First 9c / 5.15d

1hr 5mins

11 Sep 2017

Rank #3

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TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing

In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.

1hr 10mins

9 Aug 2018

Rank #4

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Ask Kris 007 :: Are You Overtraining?

Are You Overtraining? This week, in our seventh mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about the signs and symptoms of overtraining, and how much rest people really need.  Here's what we talked about: What overtraining looks like How long you should feel tired after starting a training program The emotional effects of training and overtraining Sugar cravings, hunger, and overtraining Kris's Programs Have Rest Built In To Them All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have rest built into every 6-week cycle so that you don't and overtrain. He knows all too well that not resting enough creates injuries, exhaustion, and burnout. In each 6-week cycle, you actually do 5 weeks of training and 1 week of active resting (meaning, you don't take the entire week off if you don't want to - you just don't train hard during that time). If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program. More about Kris Train with Kris one-on-one or online  Train bouldering or route climbing using one of Kris's programs on TrainingBeta Kris's 6-Week Power Endurance Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

18mins

9 Jun 2016

Rank #5

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TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting

I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.

1hr 9mins

17 Oct 2019

Rank #6

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TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training

I was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. I hope you like this interview!About Adam OndraHe doesn't really need much of an introduction, does he? He's debatably the strongest overall climber in the world, having the most impressive climbing resume I've ever even imagined. Here's what his Wikipedia page has to say about him. He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering. In addition, he succeeded to win both medals in the same year, during the 2014 edition. He has also a similar record in the World Cup, being the only athlete to have won the World Cup in two disciplines, lead in 2009 and bouldering in 2010. As of 7 December 2014, he climbed 1,162 routes between 8a (5.13b) and 9b+ (5.15c), of which 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 548 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d) and 15 onsights at 8c+ (5.14c).[1] He is the first climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c) (Change, Flatanger, 4 October 2012)[2] and the only climber to have redpointed three 9b+ (5.15c) routes. And that's not even including his bouldering accomplishments, which include 202 boulders between V11 and V16. Jeeeeez...Here's what we talked about: How he trained to win both bouldering and route climbing world championships How he used to train before he started training with Patxi How he manages to go to school full time and climb 5.15c The prospect of climbing 5.15d His thoughts on diet and body weightRelated Links Adam isn't online of his own accord (he's a little busy), but www.adamondra.com is a fan page that someone else made for him...Support The Podcast Check out the new Bouldering Strength and Power program for boulderers of all abilities! Our other training programs are pretty cool, too. Check 'em out on the Training Programs Page. If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.Listen and Review on iTunes Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)MusicIntro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings PhotoPhoto credit goes to Dario Rodriguez of Desnivel.comThanks for listening!

1hr 11mins

18 Feb 2015

Rank #7

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Ask Kris 008 :: Heart Rate Monitors and Lactic Acid Thresholds

How to Use A Heart Rate Monitor for Training and How to Increase Your Lactic Acid Threshold This week, in our eighth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about two related topics: lactic acid thresholds and heart rate monitor training. Lactic acid is basically the stuff that builds up in your body to make you feel "pumped", and it comes partially from having a high heart rate during activity.  In terms of lactic acid, we talk about: how you can increase your lactic acid threshold how a climber might test their lactic acid threshold just like runners do what to do with that information and how to decrease the lactic acid build-up while you're climbing  One of the big ways to decrease lactic acid build-up while you're climbing is to decrease your heart rate while you're climbing, and one way to train that is with a heart rate monitor. Regarding training with a heart rate monitor, we talk about: how to train with a heart rate monitor at what level of your max heart rate you should be training what kinds of workouts you can do to train at difference percentages of your max how monitoring your heart rate helps you avoid overtraining This was one of my favorite talks with Kris because it's one of the few training tactics in climbing that are completely numbers-based and easily tracked and monitored. I hope you get something out of this one! I'm looking into getting a heart rate monitor right now myself... Want Help With Your Training? If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our most popular training programs written by Kris Peters. Bouldering Training Program Route Training Program Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

26mins

16 Jun 2016

Rank #8

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TBP 079 :: Daniel Woods on Training, Comps, Life Stuff, and The Pressure to Send

In this interview with Daniel Woods, we talk about his training, comp climbing, his upcoming goals, and the pressure he feels to send. 

1hr 20mins

19 May 2017

Rank #9

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TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months

Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.

1hr 10mins

26 Mar 2019

Rank #10

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TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More

I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.

1hr 10mins

23 Aug 2019

Rank #11

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TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA's, Her Weight, and Nutrition

In this interview, I talk with pro climber Sasha DiGiulian about her current training regime, how her goals have changed over the years, what significance she puts on FFA's, and how her body weight has affected her climbing and people's opinions of her.

1hr 7mins

21 Mar 2018

Rank #12

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TBP 060 :: Sam Elias on Taming His Emotions to Climb Harder

About Sam Elias One of my first memories of Sam Elias was this: he was climbing on The Crew (14c) in Rifle, and he'd skipped 3 clips in a row on the top half. He was climbing to the death, screaming with every move, and then he fell and came dangerously close to being impaled by a tree right below the route. That tree has since been removed, and Sam has since sent the route. I think that scene personifies Sam Elias: He tries really fucking hard, he's ballsy, he's intense, and he sends hard rock climbs. When I came to know Sam a little better, I found while he's all of those things, he's also sensitive, introspective, and intelligent.  He recently did the Black Diamond training bootcamp with Dan Mirsky and Joe Kinder, being coached for several 3-week stints by Kris Peters and Justen Sjong. Since those training sessions, Sam has been climbing better than ever, sending routes quickly that he'd put years of work into prior to training.  He's sent up to 5.14c sport climbs, he's a competitive ice and mixed climber, and he summited Mount Everest, so he's an all-around excellent athlete.  Sam Elias Interview Details In this interview, we talk about what sets him apart as an athlete, how his emotions sometimes have gotten the best of him (as many of us can relate with), and what he's done in the past couple years to calm his anger and anxiety so that he can be a happier person and a better climber. We also talk about how he trained with Kris and Justen and what he's been doing to train since then.  Working with a sports psychologist "Flow state" climbing Work/climbing balance Success after BD Bootcamp Diet   Sam Elias Links Sam on Facebook Sam on Instagram @bookofsamuel Sam's website: www.bookofsamuel.com Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

1hr 11mins

12 Sep 2016

Rank #13

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TBP 070 :: Josh Dreher on Losing Weight and Home Gym Training

About Josh Dreher Josh Dreher is, among many other things, the husband of Teal Dreher, who was my first "normal person" interview on the podcast. I wanted to do another "normal person" interview, and I thought that Josh would be the perfect follow-up to Teal. I keep putting "normal person" in quotations because Josh is actually quite strong: a V12 climber. So he's not exactly normal. However, he's had much of his success in the past year and a half after losing about 40 pounds and training diligently in his home gym. I found out in the interview that he actually attributes at least 60% of his newfound success to losing weight.  He's been climbing for about 15 years, and he'd done 6 V10's or harder in that time. After the serious training and the weight loss, he's done 36 V10's or harder, and 2 of those were V12's, which he'd never climbed before.  Pretty impressive. He also has a full-time job and really only trains in his garage, so I thought we could all learn a thing or two from him.    Josh Dreher Interview Details Scheduling training with full-time job How he lost 40 pounds Why he stopped running  Moon board training Home gym setup The workout he did right before the interview How he's designed his training plan Dealing with sweaty hands

1hr 15mins

22 Dec 2016

Rank #14

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TBP 057 :: Joshua Rucci Compares Training College Athletes to Climbers

About Joshua Rucci This is an interview with Joshua Rucci, a collegiate Strength and Conditioning Coach in the Southeastern Conference (in Athens). He currently coaches women's basketball and women's gymnastics, and he has experience coaching all kinds of athletes, including the Chicago Bulls. He has always been passionate about helping athletes get better and reach their potential. Upon arriving to the Southeast, Joshua quickly realized that his days of team sports were over and that he belonged in the woods mountain biking and climbing. Joshua entered the climbing game later in life at the ripe old age of 24 and for the past decade has been training to transform his body from a 200lb college lacrosse player to a 155lb rock climber. Joshua’s progression has been slow and steady up to 5.13 sport and double digit boulders with limited interruption from injury or major setbacks. Amidst having to work long hours as a coach, Joshua has effectively been able to manage his time to accommodate training, getting to the crag, work, and a new addition to the family. Certifications and Degrees Joshua’s certifications include NSCA CSCS, NASM PES, SFG Level 2, FMS Level 1, and he completed his undergraduate degree at BGSU in exercise science and completed his graduate work at UGA in motor behavior. Articles by Joshua Rucci on TrainingBeta Joshua is passionate about strength and conditioning as well as climbing, and he's written a good handful of articles for TrainingBeta. Why Do I Suck at Climbing Some Days? Why Do I Suck at Climbing Some Days Part 2: Readiness Monitoring Why Do I Suck at Climbing Some Days Part 3: Efficient Training  Skill Acquisition and Technique How Breathing Can Increase Your Strength and Power  Periodized Training for Climbing Through his blog entries he hopes to bring the two worlds together to help climbers utilize the science and practical training that he employs with his athletes. About Our Talk In this interview we covered a lot of bases, including how training for gymnastics relates with training for climbing, and much more... Climbers generally lack regimented training, as opposed to other sports Doing more isn't necessarily better How long it takes to see results Why strength training is so important in every sport Will you bulk up if you lift? Kettlebell workout for you Climbing drills for different levels of climbers Should you train to failure or is that dumb? Joshua Rucci Links Joshua at University of Georgia - Athens (bio) Joshua climbing (vimeo) Training Programs for You Check out our Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.

1hr 1min

28 Jun 2016

Rank #15

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TBP 066 :: Physical Therapist Esther Smith Talks About Shoulders

About Esther Smith Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City. She is a 5.13- climber who's reaped the benefits of her own physical therapy practices, having healed a shoulder injury through exercises, stretches, and alternative therapies. She works almost exclusively with rock climbers, which is rare for a physical therapist. I wish I lived in Salt Lake City so I could go see her myself! For a complete bio and list of certifications and qualifications, please visit www.grassrootsphysicaltherapy.com. In this first of 3 interviews with Esther, we focused on shoulder injuries and how to heal them. Esther Smith Interview Details Esther recently acted as the physical therapist for the women's Black Diamond Bootcamp, where she helped Babsi Zangerl heal a shoulder injury WHILE she was training hard.   Babsi's shoulder issues and how she healed How Esther healed her own shoulder injury The most common shoulder injuries Proper fingerboard posture to avoid injuries What exercises to do to support shoulders How much pain is too much? Esther Smith Links Esther Smith's website: www.grassrootsphysicaltherapy.com Esther Smith's article on how to Hang Just Right Esther working with Babsi in her BD Bootcamp Video

1hr 10mins

2 Nov 2016

Rank #16

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Ask Kris 004 :: Shoulder Care for Climbers

Shoulder Care for ClimbersThis week, in our fourth mini episode of Ask Kris,wedecided to talk about shoulders - one of my favorite topics.Alot of climbers have shoulder issues, and we discuss how toavoidinjuries and how to prevent them. Most common shoulder issues for climbersWhen to see a doctorWhat exercises you should do for injury preventionWhat exercises you should avoid when you have an injuryMore about Neely's experience with shoulder surgeryTrain Your Shoulders with Kris's ProgramsAll of the programs that Kris wrote fortrainingbeta.comhave a focus on shoulder stability, strength, andinjuryprevention.If you want 3 complete workouts every weektoget you stronger and help you stay injury free, check outourboulderingtraining program or our routetrainingprogram. More about KrisTrainwithKris one-on-one or online Train bouldering or routeclimbing usingone of Kris's programs on TrainingBetaKris's 6-Week Power Endurance ProgramPlease Review The Podcast on iTunes!Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.Please give the podcast an honest reviewoniTunes here to help the show reach morecuriousclimbers around the world ;)

21mins

2 May 2016

Rank #17

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TBP 045 :: Ethan Pringle on Jumbo Love 15b, The Nest V15, and Depression

About Ethan PringleEthan Pringle is a 29 year-old professional rock climber who's had immense success in the competition scene as well as on real rock. He made the 2nd ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b) and has done a few V14s and is working on his first V15 (The Nest). He's an all around strong, determined climber, and I wanted to know what makes him tick.What We Talked About How he prepared for Jumbo Love How he stayed motivated on Jumbo Love for 7 years How depression has affected him and his climbing Getting over psychological plateaus Future goalsEthan Pringle Links Ethan on Jumbo Love (Video) Ethan Pringle on Instagram Ethan Pringle on Facebook

1hr 10mins

24 Feb 2016

Rank #18

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TBP 021:: Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight, and Crowdfunding

About Alex PuccioAlex "The Pucc" Puccio is the strongest female American boulderer, and the most accomplished female American bouldering competitor. She's won ABS Nationals 9 times, and has medaled 13 times in Bouldering World Cup events since 2009. Her goal this year is to be the overall IFSC World Cup Bouldering champ and to climb V15. She was the 4th woman to climb V14 (Jade and then Wheel of Chaos in Rocky Mountain), she's climbed 7 V13's, and she's done all of this in the past year. Naturally, I wanted to know how she went from climbing V12 to crushing V14 in such a short amount of time, so we talked all about how her training, diet, and mental game have changed recently.What We Talked About Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game Why she doesn't have enough sponsor money, and what she's doing about it How she lost weight, and whether or not she's anorexic What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs Lots more - she's very honest and openLinks We Mentioned Alex's RallyMe crowdfunding campaign: Support Her Alex's Facebook page She often posts training videos on Instagram @alex_puccio89 New short film of her taking a break from comp climbing and doing V13's outside, "Switching Gears"Discount on The Best Chalk EverAlex Puccio loves FrictionLabs chalk, and so do we. This chalk really does make a difference - it's no joke. Go to www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta for a special discount to try it out for yourself.Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page.Please Review Us on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)MusicIntro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings Thanks for listening!

1hr 23mins

20 May 2015

Rank #19

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TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie's Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program

In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.

1hr 16mins

28 Mar 2018

Rank #20