The term “flaky” should be associated with a tasty pie crust, not skin. But dry, flaky, itchy and sometimes painful, skin patches happen. Tune and find out how to heal dry skin patches and understand the underlying causes. Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at https://www.openformula.com Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

The term “flaky” should be associated with a tasty pie crust, not skin. But dry, flaky, itchy and sometimes painful, skin patches happen. Tune and find out how to heal dry skin patches and understand the underlying causes. Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#114  Heal Dry Skin Patches with These 6 Tips

Your skin sheds 30,000 to 40,000 dead cells hourly. Just imagine the build up in your pores when they mix with sebum, makeup and impurities. What happens when you don’t exfoliate to get rid of those dead skin cells? Dull skin. Break outs. Pimples and more! So, what is an exfoliator and what does it do?  

Your skin sheds 30,000 to 40,000 dead cells hourly. Just imagine the build up in your pores when they mix with sebum, makeup and impurities. What happens when you don’t exfoliate to get rid of those dead skin cells? Dull skin. Break outs. Pimples and more! So, what is an exfoliator and what does it do?

#113 Skincare Basics: What is an Exfoliator? 

A cleanser cleans the skin. A moisturizer adds moisture to the skin. But what about toner...what is a toner?Listen and learn about what a toner is and what it does.Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at https://www.openformula.com Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

A cleanser cleans the skin. A moisturizer adds moisture to the skin. But what about toner...what is a toner? Listen and learn about what a toner is and what it does.Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#112 Skincare Basics: What is a Toner?

Like it or not, the #1 factor in skin aging is unprotected sun exposure. It makes up 80%- 90% of skin aging like the appearance of wrinkles, lines, and dark spots! And sunscreen provides skin with the protection it needs. So just what is SPF? And how the heck does it even work?Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at https://www.openformula.com Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

Like it or not, the #1 factor in skin aging is unprotected sun exposure.<a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4344124/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> It makes up 80%- 90%</a> of skin aging like the appearance of wrinkles, lines, and dark spots! And sunscreen provides skin with the protection it needs. So just what is SPF? And how the heck does it even work? Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#111 Skincare Basics: What is SPF and How Does It Work

We’ve all seen it, and we want it––gorgeous glowing skin! Glowing skin is dewy and moist, never dry, dehydrated, flaky or dull. So what exactly does it take to get glowing skin? These five skin healthy habits will give you a glowing complexion! Tune in and get these 5 habits.Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at https://www.openformula.com Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

We’ve all seen it, and we want it––gorgeous glowing skin! Glowing skin is dewy and moist, never dry, dehydrated, flaky or dull. So what exactly does it take to get glowing skin? These five skin healthy habits will give you a glowing complexion! Tune in and get these 5 habits.Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#110 Get Glowing Skin

Affecting up to 50 million Americans annually, acne is the most common skin condition. And when stress skyrockets, our acne condition also gets worse. It’s time to tackle the question, “Are stress breakouts real?” Listen and learn about stress breakouts and their treatments.Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at https://www.openformula.com Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

Affecting up to 50 million Americans annually, acne is the most common skin condition. And when stress skyrockets, our acne condition also gets worse. It’s time to tackle the question, “Are stress breakouts real?” Listen and learn about stress breakouts and their treatments.Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#109 Stress Breakouts: Why You Get Them and How to Prevent Them	

“What?!! These eye bags are so big, the airline is going to charge me extra!” No one wants the appearance and company of puffy, baggy eyes. Here’s the lowdown on under eye bag causes and treatment options to lighten your eye baggage. Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at https://www.openformula.com Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

“What?!! These eye bags are so big, the airline is going to charge me extra!” No one wants the appearance and company of puffy, baggy eyes. Here’s the lowdown on under eye bag causes and treatment options to lighten your eye baggage. Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#108 Under Eye Bag Causes and Treatments 

Freckles are fashionable and hot right now. But sometimes it’s a love or hate relationship with these specks of different color skin. So just what are freckles? And how do you get rid of them if you want seamless skin color?Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at https://www.openformula.com Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

Freckles are fashionable and hot right now. But sometimes it’s a love or hate relationship with these specks of different color skin. So just what are freckles? And how do you get rid of them if you want seamless skin color?Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#107 What Are Freckles and How to Get Rid of Freckles  (but only if you want to)

Dull, acne prone, and aging skin need a healing antidote––welcome antioxidants. It’s time to understand the benefits of antioxidants for skin and how to make the most of them in your skincare routine. Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at https://www.openformula.com Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

Dull, acne prone, and aging skin need a healing antidote––welcome antioxidants. It’s time to understand the benefits of antioxidants for skin and how to make the most of them in your skincare routine. Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#106 Benefits of Antioxidants for Skin

Here’s the truth about skin texture: EVERYONE has it and it’s 100% normal. In reality, no one’s skin texture is as smooth as it looks online! Skin texture is natural, but you can still improve the look for your skin and improve skin texture.Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at https://www.openformula.com Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

Here’s the truth about skin texture: EVERYONE has it and it’s 100% normal. In reality, no one’s skin texture is as smooth as it looks online! Skin texture is natural, but you can still improve the look for your skin and improve skin texture. Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of the clinical skincare brand Open Formula. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#105 How to Get Rid of Uneven Skin Texture

Learn to master your regimen. For clear, healthy skin. Bringing you tips, tricks, and guests who share their skincare secrets.Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. Over 500,000 people have used his products. He is the founder of OpenFormula.com - clinical skincare for every budget.

I truly learn something new with every podcast! My skin has never felt the same :)

Insightful

LOVE LOVE LOVE

Learn to master your regimen. For clear, healthy skin. Bringing you tips, tricks, and guests who share their skincare secrets. Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. Over 500,000 people have used his products. He is the founder of <a href="http://OpenFormula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">OpenFormula.com</a> - clinical skincare for every budget.

Skincare Secrets

Candace Burch

In this episode, Damyan interviews Candace Burch, a hormone health educator. They discuss how hormonal imbalances affect everything from oil production and skin inflammation to mood, weight, and sex drive. She explains how to test for a hormonal imbalance and ways to treat them naturally.    Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at https://www.openformula.comAsk him anything at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

In this episode, Damyan interviews Candace Burch, a hormone health educator. They discuss how hormonal imbalances affect everything from oil production and skin inflammation to mood, weight, and sex drive. She explains how to test for a hormonal imbalance and ways to treat them naturally. Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Ask him anything at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#23 Keeping hormones in balance - an interview with Candace Burch

Retinol almighty. And different retinoids are the most powerful skincare ingredients. We’ll cover what they are and how to use them.Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at https://www.openformula.comReach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

Retinol almighty. And different retinoids are the most powerful skincare ingredients. We’ll cover what they are and how to use them.Damyan Nikolov is a skincare formulator, also a host and an entrepreneur. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a>Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#85 Retinol / Retinoids - Different Types & How To Use Them

Michael Greger

Damyan hosts Dr. Michael Greger, the creator of NutritionalFacts.org - the most authoritative website on evidence-based nutrition with 2,000+ health and nutrition videos. They talk about whether chocolate is good or bad for your skin. And how a woman eats on average 3 lbs of lipstick in her lifetime and what that means for her health.Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at https://www.openformula.comAsk him anything at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

Damyan hosts Dr. Michael Greger, the creator of <a href="http://NutritionalFacts.org" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">NutritionalFacts.org</a> - the most authoritative website on evidence-based nutrition with 2,000+ health and nutrition videos. They talk about whether chocolate is good or bad for your skin. And how a woman eats on average 3 lbs of lipstick in her lifetime and what that means for her health. Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Ask him anything at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#43 How nutrition affects your skin - interview with Dr. Michael Greger

7 Skincare Habits for the New Year To Look 5 Years YoungerWanna look 5 years younger in the new year? Here are 7 simple skincare resolutions for you to implement in your regimen that will help you get there. Super simple. And super effective. #6 will make you smile!! So read on.Welcome to another episode of Skincare Secrets. This podcast is brought to you by OpenFormula.com - a club where members get clinical skincare at $3-5 a product. Now, you can try it free for 30 days so go ahead.Switch From Foam to Oil Cleanser It’s hardly a conundrum why people go ga ga over foam cleansers. They offer that squeaky-clean sense of satisfaction we can feel when we glide a hand across our face after cleansing. But soapy foam-based cleansers can be incredibly drying to the skin, often damaging the outermost layer of our skin, the acid mantle, which is paramount to our skin’s health! Do your skin a favor and sub in an oil cleanser, even if you have oily skin. A lot of the time excess oil production is a result of dryness, believe it or not. Start Taking SPF Seriously  A whopping 80% of skin-related aging comes from the sun’s rays. That means a HUGE chunk of that damage is totally preventable! SPF is a skintellectual’s best friend. Opt for a broad spectrum sunscreen 30 SPF or higher. Even in winter months and when the forecast is showing overcast, 40% UV rays still hit your face. It’s agreed across party lines: SPF is the bipartisan solution to premature aging.Give Squalane a GoIf you’re looking for a clean, single ingredient ultra-potent moisturizer, squalane is the answer. It’s even proven to reduce redness and inflammation, making it ideal for those with dry skin, rosacea, or acne scars or redness. It’s got one of the lowest comodegenicity ratings out there, meaning it doesn’t clog pores. It’s got enough starpower to be a standalone, or toss it in your evening moisturizer! Oils are moisturizing by definition, but many of them are heavy and can be a nightmare for acne-prone people. If you’re set on a traditional oil, opt for argan or rosehip over often problematic oils like coconut or cocoa butter. Introduce an Acid 3x Per WeekI’m not talking about super strong acid peels done by an esthetician a few times a year. Just bring the acids home! Acids can do wonders to exfoliate your skin, melting away dead skin cells weighing your complexion down. Like Columbus, they can help you discover a whole new layer of skin you never knew was waiting for you under all the dead skin buildup. Start with lactic acid - the mildest of all - it is your new skincare salvation. Apply it on a cotton pad and exfoliate for 30-60 seconds. If your skin is on the sensitive side, you can wash off with water to neutralize any sensation. If not, you can leave it on. Pro tip: make sure to let it dry and absorb before applying other products. Pinpoint the Pesky Foods Flaring Up Your SkinNutrition has a huge impact on our health; that includes our skin. Tried everything to get rid of acne and irritation? Maybe your skin is trying to tell you something. Try isolating food groups one at a time for a week or two. Start with dairy, one of the most pervasive causes of acne flare ups. Eliminate it for 2 weeks and see if that changes. Then try gluten, then carbs &amp; refined sugars. Pro-tip: Gut health overall is a big contributor to problem skin - switch your diet to at least 50% plants and drink half a gallon of water a day to restore gut health.Have More SexWho said skincare was a hassle? Make 2020 the year of brilliant skin and total satisfaction; they’re not mutually exclusive. In fact, mastering the art of seduction not only has the potential to relieve stress, hypertension, and sleep irregularity, but also make vast improvements to your complexion. How? Dr. Melissa Piliang, M.D., a dermatologist at the Cleveland Clinic says "Sex increases blood flow to the skin, which will give you a brighter complexion".Is a partner hard to come by these days? Not a problem. You can get most of these benefits by yourself! It’s all in the orgasm. Don’t Wear Makeup to BedLast on our list, but by no means insignificant. Not washing your makeup off before bed is a surefire way to trigger acne, irritation, even infection! Take Anna Pursglove from the UK who purposefully did not wash her face with anything but water for 30 days and STILL wore makeup. She aged 10 years in a month! Her skin was flaking. She even had dandruff on her eyelashes from crusty leftover mascara. This is an extreme example, of course, but you’ll likely experience these effects in small doses by not cleansing your face of the day’s makeup even for a night. So there you have it: the seven wonders of the skincare world. These simple steps can solve a whole sea of skin issues when practiced altogether. Start at the top of the list and work your way down. You’ll be glowing by February. 

7 Skincare Habits for the New Year To Look 5 Years Younger Wanna look 5 years younger in the new year? Here are 7 simple skincare resolutions for you to implement in your regimen that will help you get there. Super simple. And super effective. #6 will make you smile!! So read on. Welcome to another episode of Skincare Secrets. This podcast is brought to you by <a href="http://OpenFormula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">OpenFormula.com</a> - a club where members get clinical skincare at $3-5 a product. Now, you can try it free for 30 days so go ahead. Switch From Foam to Oil Cleanser  It’s hardly a conundrum why people go ga ga over foam cleansers. They offer that squeaky-clean sense of satisfaction we can feel when we glide a hand across our face after cleansing. But soapy foam-based cleansers can be incredibly drying to the skin, often damaging the outermost layer of our skin, the acid mantle, which is paramount to our skin’s health! Do your skin a favor and sub in an oil cleanser, even if you have oily skin. A lot of the time excess oil production is a result of dryness, believe it or not.  Start Taking SPF Seriously   A whopping 80% of skin-related aging comes from the sun’s rays. That means a HUGE chunk of that damage is totally preventable! SPF is a skintellectual’s best friend. Opt for a broad spectrum sunscreen 30 SPF or higher. Even in winter months and when the forecast is showing overcast, 40% UV rays still hit your face. It’s agreed across party lines: SPF is the bipartisan solution to premature aging. Give Squalane a Go If you’re looking for a clean, single ingredient ultra-potent moisturizer, squalane is the answer. It’s even proven to reduce redness and inflammation, making it ideal for those with dry skin, rosacea, or acne scars or redness. It’s got one of the lowest comodegenicity ratings out there, meaning it doesn’t clog pores. It’s got enough starpower to be a standalone, or toss it in your evening moisturizer!  Oils are moisturizing by definition, but many of them are heavy and can be a nightmare for acne-prone people. If you’re set on a traditional oil, opt for argan or rosehip over often problematic oils like coconut or cocoa butter.  Introduce an Acid 3x Per Week I’m not talking about super strong acid peels done by an esthetician a few times a year. Just bring the acids home! Acids can do wonders to exfoliate your skin, melting away dead skin cells weighing your complexion down. Like Columbus, they can help you discover a whole new layer of skin you never knew was waiting for you under all the dead skin buildup. Start with lactic acid - the mildest of all - it is your new skincare salvation. Apply it on a cotton pad and exfoliate for 30-60 seconds. If your skin is on the sensitive side, you can wash off with water to neutralize any sensation. If not, you can leave it on. Pro tip: make sure to let it dry and absorb before applying other products.  Pinpoint the Pesky Foods Flaring Up Your Skin Nutrition has a huge impact on our health; that includes our skin. Tried everything to get rid of acne and irritation? Maybe your skin is trying to tell you something. Try isolating food groups one at a time for a week or two. Start with dairy, one of the most pervasive causes of acne flare ups. Eliminate it for 2 weeks and see if that changes. Then try gluten, then carbs &amp; refined sugars. Pro-tip: Gut health overall is a big contributor to problem skin - switch your diet to at least 50% plants and drink half a gallon of water a day to restore gut health. Have More Sex Who said skincare was a hassle? Make 2020 the year of brilliant skin and total satisfaction; they’re not mutually exclusive. In fact, mastering the art of seduction not only has the potential to relieve stress, hypertension, and sleep irregularity, but also make vast improvements to your complexion. How? Dr. <a href="https://my.clevelandclinic.org/staff/7887-melissa-piliang" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Melissa Piliang, M.D.</a>, a dermatologist at the Cleveland Clinic says  "Sex increases blood flow to the skin, which will give you a brighter complexion". Is a partner hard to come by these days? Not a problem. You can get most of these benefits by yourself! It’s all in the orgasm.  Don’t Wear Makeup to Bed Last on our list, but by no means insignificant. Not washing your makeup off before bed is a surefire way to trigger acne, irritation, even infection! Take Anna Pursglove from the UK who purposefully did not wash her face with anything but water for 30 days and STILL wore makeup. She aged 10 years in a month! Her skin was flaking. She even had dandruff on her eyelashes from crusty leftover mascara. This is an extreme example, of course, but you’ll likely experience these effects in small doses by not cleansing your face of the day’s makeup even for a night.  So there you have it: the seven wonders of the skincare world. These simple steps can solve a whole sea of skin issues when practiced altogether. Start at the top of the list and work your way down. You’ll be glowing by February.

#61 7 Skincare Habits to Take Up in the New Year

Your Skin’s First Line of Defense: The Moisture Barrier (aka Acid Mantle)Did you know that your skin has a built-in shield? It’s not necessarily something firm you can feel or touch. Rather, it’s a slightly acidic layer on top of your skin. Known as “the moisture barrier” (or sometimes the acid mantle). And a healthy moisture barrier is key to having healthy skin.The thing is, not a lot of people are aware of it and what it actually does for skin-- and it does a lot! So, what does the moisture barrier / acid mantle do?1) The Moisture Barrier Keeps Water in the SkinThe simplest purpose of your moisture barrier is in its name—it helps to keep moisture in your skin. An intact, working barrier helps to stop water loss (the big wigs call it “transepidermal water loss”). Your skin loses water and dries out. Something which happens much faster in dry climates. It also happens due to constant air conditioning exposure. On a small level, this just leaves skin a little bit dehydrated—something that's pretty easily fixed with skincare remedies - a moisturizer or an oil. The real issue is when it happens too often, causing damage to the moisture barrier. 2) The Moisture Barrier Protects Skin from the EnvironmentWhen the skin barrier is intact, it's a super-effective defense against not-so-friendly microbes and other potential skin irritants. It's essential for the healthy function and appearance of the outermost layer of skin. When skin isn’t fully protected from the environment due to a damaged barrier, outside pathogens have a chance to attack the skin, causing skin issues such as psoriasis and eczema.Studies have also found a possible link between a damaged barrier and acne. It is believed that a damaged barrier contributes to the spread of acne. Skin with a higher pH than normal is linked to the presence of acne. People with no acne typically have a normal skin pH.How Do I Know If My Moisture Barrier Is Damaged?There are a lot of different ways to tell if your moisture barrier is damaged. Your skin might not have all of these symptoms, but if you have more than a couple of these issues, that’s probably an indicator that you’re dealing with a damaged skin barrier.●     Your products sting to put on, even simple, non-irritating ones like a moisturizer●     Your skin feels rough to the touch, but not from acne bumps●     Your skin is extremely reactive to products●     Your skin feels tight and itchy all over●     You have stubborn acne and it seems like everything breaks you out●     Your skin seems dry, no matter how much moisturizer you apply●     Your skin turns red and flushes very easilyIf you’ve ticked off more than a few of these, it’s probably a good time to take a look at your routine.What Causes a Damaged Moisture Barrier?In most cases, repairing a damaged moisture barrier is as simple as taking a look at what you’re using on your skin.1) Using High pH ProductsRemember how the other name for the moisture barrier is the acid mantle? There's a good reason for that. Our skin is healthiest when it's at its naturally slightly acidic pH level—somewhere between 4 and 6.Most brands wouldn’t tell you what the pH of a product is, but you should demand this information. If you lookup any of my products, you will see all this info available in the description. Using a high pH product on skin can still leave the skin’s pH high from two to six hours after use—that’s a lot of time for skin to potentially be exposed to irritants!Examples of high pH products:-       Bar Soap-       Hand Soap-       Some foaming face washes2) Over-exfoliating Your SkinOn the other end of the spectrum of using too many alkaline products is using too many acidic products. I know what you're thinking—this whole time I've said that the skin is acidic, but now I'm saying that too many acids are bad?Well, that's not quite what I'm saying. While, yes, exfoliation does a world of good for the skin—decongesting pores, fading hyperpigmentation , and even boosting ceramide levels (ceramide restores moisture and repairs environmental damage)—it’s entirely possible to have too much of a good thing. And while there are a lot of amazing exfoliants out there, most people don’t need a salicylic acid toner plus a glycolic acid toner plus lactic acid—that’s a lot, even for very resilient skin!When introducing an exfoliant to your skincare routine, it's always a good idea to introduce it slowly to avoid any irritation and possible barrier damage. Any tingling, stinging, or flushing immediately after applying your exfoliating toner is a signal that you need to slow down! This goes for physical scrubs too. It's easier to disrupt the skin barrier with a physical exfoliant—so if you’re a fan of using scrubs but have tell-tale signs of a damaged barrier, this could be the source of your problems.It's also incredibly important to use properly formulated chemical exfoliants that are at the correct pH for the skin. For example, lemon juice is a commonly touted 'natural exfoliant', but has an extremely low pH of 2—low enough to cause damage to the skin, such as stinging, peeling, itching. Not something that you want to expose your skin to! I generally formulate exfoliants at a pH of 3.0-3.5, but there is more that goes into a good exfoliant than just the pH. Topic for another conversation.Avoid over-exfoliation by:-        Using properly formulated products (no lemon juice!)-       Gradually introducing exfoliants to skin-       Not using too many acids at once3) Stripping Your Skin of Moisture (and Not Putting Enough Back)Looping back to our first point about water loss in the skin, not many people realize they're actually being super stripping and harsh on their skin—especially those of us with oily skin. We're conditioned to think that our skin needs extra foamy, drying cleansers and alcohol-based toners to get rid of the oil, when in fact we're adding to the same problem that we're trying to fix! We are conditioned to think that the squeaky feel to the touch is what it means for the skin to be “clean”.The fact is, the skin needs a healthy balance of water and oil to maintain a strong moisture barrier. This means putting away drying, astringent toners and swapping foaming cleansers for gentle, gel-based formulas like an oil cleanser. It's also important to add extra moisture to the skin, especially in dry environments (whether natural or artificially-caused from air conditioning). This can come in the form of serums, hydrating toners, gels, and creams that all work to keep hydration in the skin—where it needs to be for a healthy moisture barrier. Occlusives, or film forming products, such as vaseline (which by the way has a comedogenic index of 0 so as low as it can be), also work to seal water into the skin—you can use it all over to lock in hydration, or on dry patches to heal them quickly. Either way, it's a great idea to keep some on hand!Avoid stripping your skin by:-       Ditching foaming cleansers for non-foaming-       Not using harsh toners or masks-       Using multiple moisturizing steps (serum, toner, cream)

Your Skin’s First Line of Defense: The Moisture Barrier (aka Acid Mantle) Did you know that your skin has a built-in shield? It’s not necessarily something firm you can feel or touch. Rather, it’s a slightly acidic layer on top of your skin. Known as “the moisture barrier” (or sometimes the acid mantle). And a healthy moisture barrier is key to having healthy skin. The thing is, not a lot of people are aware of it and what it actually does for skin-- and it does a lot!  So, what does the moisture barrier / acid mantle do? 1) The Moisture Barrier Keeps Water in the Skin The simplest purpose of your moisture barrier is in its name—it helps to<a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3645662/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> keep moisture in your skin</a>. An intact, working barrier helps to stop water loss (the big wigs call it “transepidermal water loss”). Your skin loses water and dries out. Something which happens much faster in dry climates. It also happens due to constant air conditioning exposure. On a small level, this just leaves skin a little bit dehydrated—something that's pretty easily fixed with skincare remedies - a moisturizer or an oil. The real issue is when it happens too often, causing damage to the moisture barrier.  2) The Moisture Barrier Protects Skin from the Environment When the skin barrier is intact, it's a super-effective defense against not-so-friendly microbes and other potential skin irritants. It's essential for the<a href="https://www.medicaljournals.se/acta/content_files/files/pdf/93/3/3854.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> healthy function and appearance</a> of the outermost layer of skin. When skin isn’t fully protected from the environment due to a damaged barrier, outside pathogens have a chance to attack the skin, causing skin issues such as<a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3645662/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> psoriasis and eczema.</a> Studies have also found a possible link between a<a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605222/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> damaged barrier and acne</a>. It is believed that a damaged barrier contributes to the spread of acne. Skin with a higher pH than normal is linked to the presence of acne. People with no acne typically have a normal skin pH. How Do I Know If My Moisture Barrier Is Damaged? There are a lot of different ways to tell if your moisture barrier is damaged. Your skin might not have all of these symptoms, but if you have more than a couple of these issues, that’s probably an indicator that you’re dealing with a damaged skin barrier. ●     Your products sting to put on, even simple, non-irritating ones like a moisturizer ●     Your skin feels rough to the touch, but not from acne bumps ●     Your skin is extremely reactive to products ●     Your skin feels tight and itchy all over ●     You have stubborn acne and it seems like everything breaks you out ●     Your skin seems dry, no matter how much moisturizer you apply ●     Your skin turns red and flushes very easily If you’ve ticked off more than a few of these, it’s probably a good time to take a look at your routine.What Causes a Damaged Moisture Barrier? In most cases, repairing a damaged moisture barrier is as simple as taking a look at what you’re using on your skin.1) Using High pH Products Remember how the other name for the moisture barrier is the acid mantle? There's a good reason for that. Our skin is healthiest when it's at its naturally slightly acidic pH level—somewhere between<a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605222/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> 4 and 6</a>.Most brands wouldn’t tell you what the pH of a product is, but you should demand this information. If you lookup any of my products, you will see all this info available in the description. Using a high pH product on skin can still leave the skin’s pH high from<a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5605222/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> two to six hours after use</a>—that’s a lot of time for skin to potentially be exposed to irritants!Examples of high pH products: -       Bar Soap -       Hand Soap -       Some foaming face washes 2) Over-exfoliating Your Skin On the other end of the spectrum of using too many alkaline products is using too many acidic products. I know what you're thinking—this whole time I've said that the skin is acidic, but now I'm saying that too many acids are bad?Well, that's not quite what I'm saying. While, yes, exfoliation does a world of good for the skin—<a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/1535287-treatment-of-acne-vulgaris-with-salicylic-acid-pads/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">decongesting pores</a>,<a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3875240/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> fading hyperpigmentation</a> , and even<a href="https://www.medicaljournals.se/acta/content_files/files/pdf/93/3/3854.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> boosting ceramide levels</a> <a href="https://www.medicaljournals.se/acta/content_files/files/pdf/93/3/3854.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">(ceramide restores moisture and repairs environmental damage)</a>—it’s entirely possible to have too much of a good thing. And while there are a lot of amazing exfoliants out there, most people don’t need a salicylic acid toner plus a glycolic acid toner plus lactic acid—that’s a lot, even for very resilient skin! When introducing an exfoliant to your skincare routine, it's always a good idea to introduce it slowly to avoid any irritation and possible barrier damage. Any tingling, stinging, or flushing immediately after applying your exfoliating toner is a signal that you need to slow down! This goes for physical scrubs too. It's easier to<a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5172479/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> disrupt the skin barrier</a> with a physical exfoliant—so if you’re a fan of using scrubs but have tell-tale signs of a damaged barrier, this could be the source of your problems.It's also incredibly important to use properly formulated chemical exfoliants that are at the correct pH for the skin. For example, lemon juice is a commonly touted 'natural exfoliant', but has an extremely<a href="https://labmuffin.com/fact-check-feature-should-you-use-lemon-juice-on-your-skin/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> low pH of 2</a>—low enough to cause damage to the skin, such as stinging, peeling, itching. Not something that you want to expose your skin to! I generally formulate exfoliants at a pH of 3.0-3.5, but there is more that goes into a good exfoliant than just the pH. Topic for another conversation.Avoid over-exfoliation by: -        Using properly formulated products (no lemon juice!) -       Gradually introducing exfoliants to skin -       Not using too many acids at once 3) Stripping Your Skin of Moisture (and Not Putting Enough Back) Looping back to our first point about water loss in the skin, not many people realize they're actually being super stripping and harsh on their skin—especially those of us with oily skin. We're conditioned to think that our skin needs extra foamy, drying cleansers and alcohol-based toners to get rid of the oil, when in fact we're adding to the same problem that we're trying to fix! We are conditioned to think that the squeaky feel to the touch is what it means for the skin to be “clean”.The fact is, the skin needs a<a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5172479/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> healthy balance of water and oil</a> to maintain a strong moisture barrier. This means putting away drying, astringent toners and swapping foaming cleansers for gentle, gel-based formulas like an oil cleanser. It's also important to add extra moisture to the skin, especially in dry environments (whether natural or artificially-caused from air conditioning). This can come in the form of serums, hydrating toners, gels, and creams that all work to keep hydration in the skin—where it needs to be for a healthy moisture barrier. Occlusives, or film forming products, such as vaseline (which by the way has a comedogenic index of 0 so as low as it can be), also work to seal water into the skin—you can use it all over to lock in hydration, or on dry patches to heal them quickly. Either way, it's a great idea to keep some on hand!Avoid stripping your skin by: -       Ditching foaming cleansers for non-foaming -       Not using harsh toners or masks -       Using multiple moisturizing steps (serum, toner, cream)

#55 Your Skin’s First Line of Defense: The Moisture Barrier 

When it comes to acne… 54% of women over 25 have some acne. So I want you to know that you are not alone. And guys generally produce more oil. Even though I have not seen a formal statistic, I wouldn’t expect the number to be lower. With so many people in the world affected by acne, there is a lot of advice available on how to treat it and what works. From the internet to your best friend, everyone has some tried and true way to defeat those painful life-ruiners that seem to pop up at the most inconvenient times! You obviously have the medications. Some popular ones are now even available without a prescription, like Differin gel. A derivative of vitamin A. But with medications come some strong label warnings. They can irritate the skin, cause redness, and dry patches. And do all sorts of other damage. So I did some research and came across some natural at home remedies that claim to work. Let’s check them out.  Welcome to another episode of Skincare Secrets… First, I want to thank you for listening. And thank you for subscribing. And if you haven’t done it, you can do it now.Let’s start from the beginning...where does acne come from? Our skin is covered in tiny openings called pores. Pores are connected to oil glands that lubricates the top layers of skin. But when the pores fill with excess oil, dead skin, and bacteria - acne forms. Acne is basically an infection that causes inflammation and triggers your white blood cells to attack the infection to try to get rid of the bacteria. And you see the usual symptoms like whiteheads, blackheads, and pimples. Some acne is worse than others. There are a lot of factors that contribute to getting acne including stress, hormone changes, and a family history of acne. Now on to treating acne. Maybe you’ve tried conventional acne treatments and haven’t been that happy with the results, OR experienced unpleasant side effects. Or maybe you just want to try something different or more natural. Let’s go over these 5 home remedies for acne that you might want to try. The first home remedy on the list is Apple Cider Vinegar. Vinegars in general are known for their ability to fight off bacteria and viruses. Apple cider vinegar in particular contains several acids that have been shown to kill the specific bacteria that causes acne. It also dries up the excess oil and contains lactic acid that can improve scarring. Just a word of caution with apple cider vinegar, applying it to your skin can potentially cause burns and irritation. It should always be used in small amounts and can be diluted with water to make it more tolerable.You would apply the vinegar on the skin with a cotton ball. After a minute, you can wash off. Or if you can tolerate the small, you can leave it.The next natural remedy you might want to try is taking a zinc supplement. Research done in Turkey shows people with low levels of zinc in their blood have more acne. Zinc is an essential nutrient needed for cells to grow, produce hormones, metabolism function, and supporting the immune system. Zinc is actually a well studied treatment for acne. Several studies have shown that taking zinc orally helps reduce acne. In one study done in India, 48 acne patients were given oral zinc supplements three times per day for 3 months. After 12 weeks, 79% of the people experienced an 80–100% improvement in acne. Not bad. Certainly easy to try as zinc supplements are available anywhere. Tea tree oil is an essential oil extracted from a tree in Australia known for reducing inflammation and bacteria. In fact, several studies show that applying 5% tea tree oil to the skin reduces acne. It also comes with fewer side effects like dryness and irritation that benzoyl peroxide and retinoids usually cause. But keep in mind that tea tree oil is very potent, so always dilute it before applying it to your skin. Tea tree oil has some really good data behind it. I did a full episode on this - it’s #38 on the podcast, check it out.Spot treatment with tea tree oil is certainly worth trying. Green tea. Much like the other home remedies, applying green tea to the skin can reduce acne because it is high in antioxidants that fight bacteria and reduce inflammation. Several studies show that an application of a cream with 3% green tea extract greatly reduces oil production, which if too high can contribute to acne. The small study only had 10 participants, using green tea at 3% for 8 weeks. But another study done by the Department of Dermatology at the University of Miami tested green tea at 2% in a cream for 6 weeks. In this study, total pimple count went down by 58% and the severity of acne went down by 39%.Drinking green tea HOWEVER hasn’t shown to reduce acne. But studies have shown it reduces blood sugar and insulin levels which is also another factor in acne developing. Not difficult to make some super concentrated green tea, cool it down and apply if you want to try it.Aloe vera is definitely one of my all-time favorites to use in my home remedies. My grandma has aloe vera plants at home. For anything skin related, she’d cut a leaf open and put the gel on the skin. Aloe vera is an effective anti-inflammatory. The gel also contains sulfur and salicylic acid - both of which have been studied and shown to be effective against acne because they clear out oil and bacteria. Now, you don’t need to grow an aloe vera plant, you can buy aloe at the store but make sure to read the label to make sure it’s pure with no other ingredients. Now, the studies for individual ingredients are not super strong. In some case, something contained in the plan - like salicylic acid in Aloe Vera - has been studied, not the plant aloe vera itself. But people have been using plants, vinegar and other things as treatments for thousands of years. And yes, natural medicine is not modern medicine, but you’re not putting nasty chemicals in your body either. That’s all for today. Thanks for joining me. Hit the subscribe button and I will see you in the next one.

When it comes to acne… 54% of women over 25 have some acne. So I want you to know that you are not alone. And guys generally produce more oil. Even though I have not seen a formal statistic, I wouldn’t expect the number to be lower.  With so many people in the world affected by acne, there is a lot of advice available on how to treat it and what works. From the internet to your best friend, everyone has some tried and true way to defeat those painful life-ruiners that seem to pop up at the most inconvenient times!  You obviously have the medications. Some popular ones are now even available without a prescription, like Differin gel. A derivative of vitamin A. But with medications come some strong label warnings. They can irritate the skin, cause redness, and dry patches. And do all sorts of other damage.  So I did some research and came across some natural at home remedies that claim to work. Let’s check them out.   Welcome to another episode of Skincare Secrets… First, I want to thank you for listening. And thank you for subscribing. And if you haven’t done it, you can do it now. Let’s start from the beginning...where does acne come from? Our skin is covered in tiny openings called pores. Pores are connected to oil glands that lubricates the top layers of skin. But when the pores fill with excess oil, dead skin, and bacteria - acne forms.  Acne is basically an infection that causes inflammation and triggers your white blood cells to attack the infection to try to get rid of the bacteria.  And you see the usual symptoms like whiteheads, blackheads, and pimples. Some acne is worse than others. There are a lot of factors that contribute to getting acne including stress, hormone changes, and a family history of acne.  Now on to treating acne. Maybe you’ve tried conventional acne treatments and haven’t been that happy with the results, OR experienced unpleasant side effects. Or maybe you just want to try something different or more natural. Let’s go over these 5 home remedies for acne that you might want to try.  The first home remedy on the list is Apple Cider Vinegar. Vinegars in general are known for their ability to fight off bacteria and viruses. Apple cider vinegar in particular contains several acids that have been shown to kill the specific bacteria that causes acne. It also dries up the excess oil and contains lactic acid that can improve scarring. Just a word of caution with apple cider vinegar, applying it to your skin can potentially cause burns and irritation. It should always be used in small amounts and can be diluted with water to make it more tolerable. You would apply the vinegar on the skin with a cotton ball. After a minute, you can wash off. Or if you can tolerate the small, you can leave it. The next natural remedy you might want to try is taking a zinc supplement. Research done in Turkey shows people with low levels of zinc in their blood have more acne. Zinc is an essential nutrient needed for cells to grow, produce hormones, metabolism function, and supporting the immune system.  Zinc is actually a well studied treatment for acne. Several studies have shown that taking zinc orally helps reduce acne. In one study done in India, 48 acne patients were given oral zinc supplements three times per day for 3 months. After 12 weeks, 79% of the people experienced an 80–100% improvement in acne. Not bad.  Certainly easy to try as zinc supplements are available anywhere.  Tea tree oil is an essential oil extracted from a tree in Australia known for reducing inflammation and bacteria. In fact, several studies show that applying 5% tea tree oil to the skin reduces acne. It also comes with fewer side effects like dryness and irritation that benzoyl peroxide and retinoids usually cause. But keep in mind that tea tree oil is very potent, so always dilute it before applying it to your skin. Tea tree oil has some really good data behind it. I did a full episode on this - it’s #38 on the podcast, check it out. Spot treatment with tea tree oil is certainly worth trying.  Green tea. Much like the other home remedies, applying green tea to the skin can reduce acne because it is high in antioxidants that fight bacteria and reduce inflammation. Several studies show that an application of a cream with 3% green tea extract greatly reduces oil production, which if too high can contribute to acne. The small study only had 10 participants, using green tea at 3% for 8 weeks. But another study done by the Department of Dermatology at the University of Miami tested green tea at 2% in a cream for 6 weeks. In this study, total pimple count went down by 58% and the severity of acne went down by 39%. Drinking green tea HOWEVER hasn’t shown to reduce acne. But studies have shown it reduces blood sugar and insulin levels which is also another factor in acne developing.  Not difficult to make some super concentrated green tea, cool it down and apply if you want to try it. Aloe vera is definitely one of my all-time favorites to use in my home remedies. My grandma has aloe vera plants at home. For anything skin related, she’d cut a leaf open and put the gel on the skin. Aloe vera is an effective anti-inflammatory. The gel also contains sulfur and salicylic acid - both of which have been studied and shown to be effective against acne because they clear out oil and bacteria. Now, you don’t need to grow an aloe vera plant, you can buy aloe at the store but make sure to read the label to make sure it’s pure with no other ingredients.  Now, the studies for individual ingredients are not super strong. In some case, something contained in the plan - like salicylic acid in Aloe Vera - has been studied, not the plant aloe vera itself. But people have been using plants, vinegar and other things as treatments for thousands of years. And yes, natural medicine is not modern medicine, but you’re not putting nasty chemicals in your body either.  That’s all for today. Thanks for joining me. Hit the subscribe button and I will see you in the next one.

#40 5 natural acne remedies (that you can try at home)

Acne scars can be stubborn. But with the right tools, we can be more stubborn. Let's learn what makes these scars tick and find out what ingredients will set them straight once and for all. Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at https://www.openformula.comAsk him anything at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

Acne scars can be stubborn. But with the right tools, we can be more stubborn. Let's learn what makes these scars tick and find out what ingredients will set them straight once and for all. Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Ask him anything at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#70 The 5 Best Ways to Get Rid of Acne Scars 

Debra Kissen

In this episode, Damyan interviews Dr. Debra Kissen who specializes in Cognitive Behavioral Therapy for various mental health disorders including skin picking. She’s a PhD, a book author, speaker, and an active contributor to the Huffington Post.  You can connect with Dr Debra Kissen at Lightonanxiety.com. Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at https://www.openformula.comAsk him anything at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

In this episode, Damyan interviews Dr. Debra Kissen who specializes in Cognitive Behavioral Therapy for various mental health disorders including skin picking. She’s a PhD, a book author, speaker, and an active contributor to the Huffington Post. You can connect with Dr Debra Kissen at <a href="http://Lightonanxiety.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Lightonanxiety.com</a>. Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Ask him anything at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#20 Skin picking - an interview with Dr. Debra Kissen 

---Transcript---When you are younger, your skin looks firm and bouncy. It looks smooth. Your skin tone is even. As time goes by, you start seeing things on your skin you don’t like. Little imperfections. Then a little bigger imperfections. Which may make you self-conscious. And impact your confidence. With the right skincare routine, you can certainly minimize and delay these changes on your skin. Today, we’ll talk about the most underrated ingredient in skincare that is so underused by most peopleHi everyone, welcome to episode 13 of the Skincare Secrets show.So over time, because of sun exposure, pollution, and other things, you start to see lines &amp; wrinkles, dark spots, blotchy skin tone, sagging. Most of this is caused by oxidants, also known as free radicals. Today we’ll talk about Vitamin C. The most abundant antioxidant in our skin. What does Vitamin C do - it fights the oxidants. And what are those? In your skin, you have oxygen molecules. They can lose a part and become an oxidant, or free radical. Picture a car on the freeway that loses a tire at 60 miles an hour - it will keep driving for a while, but it will inevitably cause damage down the road.In your skin, these oxidants, or free radicals, hurt your the skin cells DNA. And for those who pay attention to this podcast, you know the skin regenerates itself every 28 days. So the new cells which are made from bad DNA, are not exactly the same as the old cells. That’s why they form wrinkles, sagging, brown spots and other things you don’t want to see in the mirror.What causes these oxidants? How do we get them? The answer is all the stuff you know is bad for your skin - sun exposure because of the UV radiation, pollution, smoking, alcohol, etc. Things we try to minimize, but we cannot eliminate. Because we also want to live. And these things are part of life.You’ve all seen an apple turn brown. That’s caused by oxidants. It’s the same process that leads to dark spots on your skin.The good news is that your skin has a natural way of fighting these oxidants. It uses antioxidants.This is what Vitamin C’s main role is. It’s the most abundant antioxidant in our skin. And it was put there for a reason. It basically fixes these broken oxygen molecules by putting the missing part back in place. So they become normal and they don’t cause any damage. Vitamin C also plays a major role in the production of collagen - which is this protein that’s a building block that gives your skin texture so it’s firm and bouncy.When you are young, your skin has lots of vitamin C. Over time, it loses it. So our ability to fight the oxidants goes down. The good news is that we can put vitamin C back in the skin.Applying Vitamin C topically can get you up to 20x more vitamin c in the skin, compared to taking it with food and supplements. This is very important, because our bodies cannot produce Vitamin C.That’s why it needs to be part of everyone’s skincare routine.And you see all kinds of celebrities with great skin using vitamin C and swearing by it - from Halle Berry to Olivia Wilde, and Alessandra Ambrosio etc.Now, you know I geek out on this stuff. So let’s get into it a little more.First, there are maybe half a dozen different types of vitamin c used in skincare. The natural form of vitamin C, called L-ascorbic acid, is also the most potent form of vitamin C. That’s what you want to see on the ingredient list when you’re buying a product with Vitamin C.Next, you need the right dosage. Too little of a good thing, does nothing. The Journal of Clinical &amp; Aesthetic Dermatology tells us that 20% leads to maximum absorption. And to the biggest benefit. So you get an idea of what this means, a 1 oz vitamin C serum with 20% concentration has the vitamin c equivalent of 86 oranges. And last, keep your vitamin C product in a dark container away from sunlight. If you see it changing color, texture, of feeling different, throw it away. If it goes bad, it actually becomes an oxidant and starts to cause damage.So if you want to keep your skin smooth, bright and glowing, make sure Vitamin C is part of your skincare routine on a daily basis.That’s all for today. Please don’t forget to subscribe and share. See you next time.

---Transcript---When you are younger, your skin looks firm and bouncy. It looks smooth. Your skin tone is even. As time goes by, you start seeing things on your skin you don’t like. Little imperfections. Then a little bigger imperfections. Which may make you self-conscious. And impact your confidence.  With the right skincare routine, you can certainly minimize and delay these changes on your skin. Today, we’ll talk about the most underrated ingredient in skincare that is so underused by most people Hi everyone, welcome to episode 13 of the Skincare Secrets show. So over time, because of sun exposure, pollution, and other things, you start to see lines &amp; wrinkles, dark spots, blotchy skin tone, sagging. Most of this is caused by oxidants, also known as free radicals.  Today we’ll talk about Vitamin C. The most abundant antioxidant in our skin.  What does Vitamin C do - it fights the oxidants.  And what are those?  In your skin, you have oxygen molecules. They can lose a part and become an oxidant, or free radical. Picture a car on the freeway that loses a tire at 60 miles an hour - it will keep driving for a while, but it will inevitably cause damage down the road. In your skin, these oxidants, or free radicals, hurt your the skin cells DNA. And for those who pay attention to this podcast, you know the skin regenerates itself every 28 days. So the new cells which are made from bad DNA, are not exactly the same as the old cells. That’s why they form wrinkles, sagging, brown spots and other things you don’t want to see in the mirror. What causes these oxidants? How do we get them?  The answer is all the stuff you know is bad for your skin - sun exposure because of the UV radiation, pollution, smoking, alcohol, etc. Things we try to minimize, but we cannot eliminate. Because we also want to live. And these things are part of life. You’ve all seen an apple turn brown. That’s caused by oxidants. It’s the same process that leads to dark spots on your skin. The good news is that your skin has a natural way of fighting these oxidants. It uses antioxidants. This is what Vitamin C’s main role is. It’s the most abundant antioxidant in our skin. And it was put there for a reason. It basically fixes these broken oxygen molecules by putting the missing part back in place. So they become normal and they don’t cause any damage.  Vitamin C also plays a major role in the production of collagen - which is this protein that’s a building block that gives your skin texture so it’s firm and bouncy. When you are young, your skin has lots of vitamin C. Over time, it loses it. So our ability to fight the oxidants goes down. The good news is that we can put vitamin C back in the skin. Applying Vitamin C topically can get you up to 20x more vitamin c in the skin, compared to taking it with food and supplements. This is very important, because our bodies cannot produce Vitamin C. That’s why it needs to be part of everyone’s skincare routine. And you see all kinds of celebrities with great skin using vitamin C and swearing by it - from Halle Berry to Olivia Wilde, and Alessandra Ambrosio etc. Now, you know I geek out on this stuff. So let’s get into it a little more. First, there are maybe half a dozen different types of vitamin c used in skincare. The natural form of vitamin C, called L-ascorbic acid, is also the most potent form of vitamin C. That’s what you want to see on the ingredient list when you’re buying a product with Vitamin C. Next, you need the right dosage. Too little of a good thing, does nothing. The Journal of Clinical &amp; Aesthetic Dermatology tells us that 20% leads to maximum absorption. And to the biggest benefit. So you get an idea of what this means, a 1 oz vitamin C serum with 20% concentration has the vitamin c equivalent of 86 oranges.  And last, keep your vitamin C product in a dark container away from sunlight. If you see it changing color, texture, of feeling different, throw it away. If it goes bad, it actually becomes an oxidant and starts to cause damage. So if you want to keep your skin smooth, bright and glowing, make sure Vitamin C is part of your skincare routine on a daily basis. That’s all for today. Please don’t forget to subscribe and share. See you next time.

#13 The most underrated ingredient in skincare

---Transcript---So can you really slow down the aging of the skin? The answer is absolutely. So I took all the women in my family to a spa for mother's day recently. It was my wife, my mom, my grandma and my niece was there as well. And my niece is in her 20s and grandma is in her 80s and I asked them to stand next to each other and turn their backs to the mirror. And then I told them to turn their heads around and look at the skin on their backs. And guess what. Very little difference in the way the skin looked even though there's 60 years of age difference between the youngest and the oldest.  So the big question is this - What do people with great skin do differently to have that? How did they achieve a great look without using celebrity beauticians or spending a paycheck to re-stock their beauty cabinet? What are their mindsets, their approaches, their rituals, the products and tools they use? That is the question and as podcast will give you the answers. My name is Damyan Nikolov and welcome to Skincare Secrets.  Hey everyone. Welcome to episode six of the Skincare Secrets show. So when we're at the spa center and I asked them to turn around and look at the skin on their faces obviously a huge difference. Why is that? Because their backs almost never see the light of day. Could exposure to the sun actually account for all this difference and yes it's pretty much yes. There's a number of studies that show that 80 to 90 percent of the aging of the skin is due to the sun. So UV light causes what they call photo aging. So wrinkles, dark spots, sagging of the skin, the loss of elasticity 80 to 90 percent of that is because of the sun. This means that only 10 to 20 percent of the aging of the skin is due to purely time and other factors. How's that for amazing?  Now let's understand how this process happens so we can figure out what we can do about it. So basically the sunlight when it hits your skin it produces free radicals. Those few radicals then damage the DNA of your skin cells. And when the DNA is damaged when the skin cell replicates itself the new cell is not an exact replica of the old cell. And over time, as this process goes on and on, the skin structure changes. And this happens pretty rapidly because your skin actually regenerates itself approximately every 28 days. So you start seeing all the signs of aging that we just talked about. Now what can you do about it? SPF is the obvious answer and it's correct but it's only half to answer.  So SPF depending on the ingredients can either absorb the sunlight or reflect the sunlight. Either way it offers a significant protection against the sun. And yes you should apply SPF every day including in the winter because even on the coldest darkest winter day some 40 to 50 percent of the UV radiation still reaches the Earth. And there's a lot more you should know about SPF to be able to pick the best one etc.. But I'll do a separate episode on this one for now, just know that you should be applying your SPF every day.  OK. So far great. But why is SPF have the answer? Because there's other studies that actually show SPF only prevents around 55 percent of the free radicals caused by the sun. So SPF is not perfect. And what do we do about the other half? So the free radicals are also called oxidants by the way. And the obvious answer is we fight them with antioxidants. Our body's natural carrier but not naturally carry a bunch of antioxidants like vitamin C which is the most abundant antioxidant in the human body. And antioxidants basically chase the free radicals and neutralize them. They work a little differently than SPF. So SPF obviously you need to reapply it especially if you're out on the beach. But SPF continues to work for a while. With antioxidants, one molecule of the antioxidants neutralizes one free radical and then that's it. So you get used up much faster.  So the key to antioxidants is to get as much as possible. Obviously, through food but also through skincare products. Especially, with vitamin C if applied topically on the skin you get up to 20 times more than if you take it with food or supplements. So even though antioxidants are not classified as sun care by the FDA and they don't have an SPF factor they are equally as important.  So to summarize 80 to 90 percent of the skin aging is caused by the sun. You can absolutely slow down this process. Just look at the skin on your grandma's back and compared that to the skin on her face. The best way to go about it is wear your SPF daily and add antioxidants to your skin carotene. My personal choice is Vitamin C and the reason is because it's most prevalent in the human body and there's a reason why it was put there.  So that's it for today. Thank you for joining. Please don't forget to subscribe to the podcast and tag a friend who should listen to this and I'll see you next time. 

---Transcript---So can you really slow down the aging of the skin? The answer is absolutely. So I took all the women in my family to a spa for mother's day recently. It was my wife, my mom, my grandma and my niece was there as well. And my niece is in her 20s and grandma is in her 80s and I asked them to stand next to each other and turn their backs to the mirror. And then I told them to turn their heads around and look at the skin on their backs. And guess what. Very little difference in the way the skin looked even though there's 60 years of age difference between the youngest and the oldest.  So the big question is this - What do people with great skin do differently to have that? How did they achieve a great look without using celebrity beauticians or spending a paycheck to re-stock their beauty cabinet? What are their mindsets, their approaches, their rituals, the products and tools they use? That is the question and as podcast will give you the answers. My name is Damyan Nikolov and welcome to Skincare Secrets.  Hey everyone. Welcome to episode six of the Skincare Secrets show. So when we're at the spa center and I asked them to turn around and look at the skin on their faces obviously a huge difference. Why is that? Because their backs almost never see the light of day. Could exposure to the sun actually account for all this difference and yes it's pretty much yes. There's a number of studies that show that 80 to 90 percent of the aging of the skin is due to the sun. So UV light causes what they call photo aging. So wrinkles, dark spots, sagging of the skin, the loss of elasticity 80 to 90 percent of that is because of the sun. This means that only 10 to 20 percent of the aging of the skin is due to purely time and other factors. How's that for amazing?  Now let's understand how this process happens so we can figure out what we can do about it. So basically the sunlight when it hits your skin it produces free radicals. Those few radicals then damage the DNA of your skin cells. And when the DNA is damaged when the skin cell replicates itself the new cell is not an exact replica of the old cell. And over time, as this process goes on and on, the skin structure changes. And this happens pretty rapidly because your skin actually regenerates itself approximately every 28 days. So you start seeing all the signs of aging that we just talked about. Now what can you do about it? SPF is the obvious answer and it's correct but it's only half to answer.  So SPF depending on the ingredients can either absorb the sunlight or reflect the sunlight. Either way it offers a significant protection against the sun. And yes you should apply SPF every day including in the winter because even on the coldest darkest winter day some 40 to 50 percent of the UV radiation still reaches the Earth. And there's a lot more you should know about SPF to be able to pick the best one etc.. But I'll do a separate episode on this one for now, just know that you should be applying your SPF every day.  OK. So far great. But why is SPF have the answer? Because there's other studies that actually show SPF only prevents around 55 percent of the free radicals caused by the sun. So SPF is not perfect. And what do we do about the other half? So the free radicals are also called oxidants by the way. And the obvious answer is we fight them with antioxidants. Our body's natural carrier but not naturally carry a bunch of antioxidants like vitamin C which is the most abundant antioxidant in the human body. And antioxidants basically chase the free radicals and neutralize them. They work a little differently than SPF. So SPF obviously you need to reapply it especially if you're out on the beach. But SPF continues to work for a while. With antioxidants, one molecule of the antioxidants neutralizes one free radical and then that's it. So you get used up much faster.  So the key to antioxidants is to get as much as possible. Obviously, through food but also through skincare products. Especially, with vitamin C if applied topically on the skin you get up to 20 times more than if you take it with food or supplements. So even though antioxidants are not classified as sun care by the FDA and they don't have an SPF factor they are equally as important.  So to summarize 80 to 90 percent of the skin aging is caused by the sun. You can absolutely slow down this process. Just look at the skin on your grandma's back and compared that to the skin on her face. The best way to go about it is wear your SPF daily and add antioxidants to your skin carotene. My personal choice is Vitamin C and the reason is because it's most prevalent in the human body and there's a reason why it was put there.  So that's it for today. Thank you for joining. Please don't forget to subscribe to the podcast and tag a friend who should listen to this and I'll see you next time.

#6 Can you really slow down aging of the skin? Absolutely!

Some say it moisturizes. Some say it can cause inflammation. So ADD or REMOVE from your skincare regimen? Tune in to find outDamyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at https://www.openformula.comReach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

Some say it moisturizes. Some say it can cause inflammation. So ADD or REMOVE from your skincare regimen? Tune in to find out Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#75 The Truth about Hyaluronic Acid

Skincare trends can be hard to keep up with sometimes...there are always new products, new technology… and I saw recently something I was curious about - this LED light therapy. Should you believe that strapping a creepy white mask to our face will take away redness and acne? Or that a handheld space-age looking wand could be the key to healing and smoothing away wrinkles? If the answer was yes, go ahead and sign me up! But let’s actually see if there’s truth to LED light therapy or not? The full face white mask became pretty popular on Instagram when the Kardashians endorsed it. The LED mask is kinda scary looking. You put it on for 20 minutes a day and if anyone sees you in it... it’s creepy! Major serial killer vibes!!!Back to our main question...what exactly is LED light therapy? It’s basically a plastic mask you put on your face. It has LED lights on the inside, which emit different color lights. And the difference between the colors is they are different wavelengths of red and blue light that can be absorbed into the skin. Now some history… Dating back to the early 1900’s A Nobel Peace Prize was awarded to a scientist named Neil Finsen for using light therapy in medicine. By the 1960’s LED light therapy was being used in Eastern Europe for pain and injury relief and in a small portion of the U.S. on animals, mostly horses, with joint or muscle injuries. In the 1980’s NASA developed an LED light as an experiment to see if they could grow plants on space missions. Under the red light wavelength the plants did grow and they actually developed a new antioxidant that made them stronger, healthier, and live longer. Then NASA began using red light therapy to heal the painful side effects of cancer treatment.  Now coming more current to the 2000’s...professional sports teams and physical therapists found that LED therapy helps heal sports injuries 50 times faster than without light therapy. It’s no wonder that light therapy made its way into more medical services and certainly skincare treatments. While LED light therapy can be used on any part of the body, it is mainly used on the face because the skin on our face experiences more damage from the environment like pollution and sun exposure. That is why LED light therapy is now used by estheticians to help heal stressed skin that is aging or suffering from acne breakouts. So let’s talk about the difference between the red and blue light for a moment...We’re going to get a little sciency here to explain exactly what red light therapy does to the skin. Red LED light therapy works by changing the chemistry of skin cells and making the mitochondria stronger, which is where all of the skin cells energy is made. When the skin cells have more energy… they can function better, heal themselves, and repair damage. Red light therapy in skincare treatments are usually marketed as anti aging or skin rejuvenation services. Red LED light therapy actually stimulates collagen and more collagen means that your skin will look smoother and fuller filling in fine lines and wrinkles. Red LED light also calms redness and improves circulation, which can give your skin a nice healthy glow! Blue LED light therapy, on the other hand, works on the oil glands, which produce the sebum that keeps skin lubricated so it doesn’t get dry. But when the oil glands start to produce too much oil because of hormone changes or an improper skincare routine...it causes blackheads and breakouts. Blue LED light therapy targets the oil glands to make them less active. Blue light can also kill acne-causing bacteria on the skin. This can with severe acne breakouts like cysts and nodules.  Blue and red light therapy can be used together to treat acne so you get the benefits of slowing down oil production, decreased scarring and redness. There was a study in 2006 where 10 people with acne used blue LED light therapy twice a week for 20 minutes for 8 weeks. All people showed improvement in getting rid of the breakouts in just 4 weeks and 9 out of 10 people were completely clear in 8 weeks with zero side effects.So that must mean LED light therapy is safe to use? The American Academy of Dermatology says YES! Since LED lights don’t have UV rays, they are considered a safe treatment. Light therapy won’t cause long-term damage to your skin. It is not invasive meaning it doesn’t break the surface of the skin, the light rays absorb into the skin. LED lights do not get hot so they will not burn the skin compared to other anti aging treatments like chemical peels, dermabrasion, and laser therapy. It is also safe for all skin colors and skin types. LED light therapy is not painful. There is no downtime after having a treatment either… so you won’t be walking around with a red face for 3 days the way you do after some really harsh chemical peels.The only thing you should be mindful of is if you are taking Accutane, a medication to treat severe acne, you shouldn’t use light therapy. You might wonder why since blue light therapy is great for acne? One of the side effects of Accutane is that it makes the skin very sensitive to light. You will typically find LED light therapy services offered by a doctor’s office, medical spa, or day spa. In addition of course to the scary looking at-home masks. It is recommended to have the treatment done 1 to 2 times per week for 20 minutes for up to 10 weeks. You’ll have to be patient with this treatment...LED light therapy is not a quick fix. And most people only see minor results after their first treatment. Results are not permanent either. So it’s more of a cosmetic treatment than anything else. That is why maintenance treatments are recommended every few months.  All in all, LED light therapy is an amazing technology and a great alternative to more aggressive acne and anti aging treatments. 

Skincare trends can be hard to keep up with sometimes...there are always new products, new technology… and I saw recently something I was curious about - this LED light therapy. Should you believe that strapping a creepy white mask to our face will take away redness and acne? Or that a handheld space-age looking wand could be the key to healing and smoothing away wrinkles? If the answer was yes, go ahead and sign me up! But let’s actually see if there’s truth to LED light therapy or not? The full face white mask became pretty popular on Instagram when the Kardashians endorsed it. The LED mask is kinda scary looking. You put it on for 20 minutes a day and if anyone sees you in it... it’s creepy! Major serial killer vibes!!!Back to our main question...what exactly is LED light therapy?  It’s basically a plastic mask you put on your face. It has LED lights on the inside, which emit different color lights. And the difference between the colors is they are different wavelengths of red and blue light that can be absorbed into the skin. Now some history… Dating back to the early 1900’s A Nobel Peace Prize was awarded to a scientist named Neil Finsen for using light therapy in medicine. By the 1960’s LED light therapy was being used in Eastern Europe for pain and injury relief and in a small portion of the U.S. on animals, mostly horses, with joint or muscle injuries. In the 1980’s NASA developed an LED light as an experiment to see if they could grow plants on space missions. Under the red light wavelength the plants did grow and they actually developed a new antioxidant that made them stronger, healthier, and live longer.  Then NASA began using red light therapy to heal the painful side effects of cancer treatment.  Now coming more current to the 2000’s...professional sports teams and physical therapists found that LED therapy helps heal sports injuries 50 times faster than without light therapy.  It’s no wonder that light therapy made its way into more medical services and certainly skincare treatments. While LED light therapy can be used on any part of the body, it is mainly used on the face because the skin on our face experiences more damage from the environment like pollution and sun exposure. That is why LED light therapy is now used by estheticians to help heal stressed skin that is aging or suffering from acne breakouts. So let’s talk about the difference between the red and blue light for a moment... We’re going to get a little sciency here to explain exactly what red light therapy does to the skin. Red LED light therapy works by changing the chemistry of skin cells and making the mitochondria stronger, which is where all of the skin cells energy is made. When the skin cells have more energy… they can function better, heal themselves, and repair damage. Red light therapy in skincare treatments are usually marketed as anti aging or skin rejuvenation services. Red LED light therapy actually stimulates collagen and more collagen means that your skin will look smoother and fuller filling in fine lines and wrinkles. Red LED light also calms redness and improves circulation, which can give your skin a nice healthy glow! Blue LED light therapy, on the other hand, works on the oil glands, which produce the sebum that keeps skin lubricated so it doesn’t get dry. But when the oil glands start to produce too much oil because of hormone changes or an improper skincare routine...it causes blackheads and breakouts. Blue LED light therapy targets the oil glands to make them less active. Blue light can also kill acne-causing bacteria on the skin. This can with severe acne breakouts like cysts and nodules.  Blue and red light therapy can be used together to treat acne so you get the benefits of slowing down oil production, decreased scarring and redness. There was a study in 2006 where 10 people with acne used blue LED light therapy twice a week for 20 minutes for 8 weeks. All people showed improvement in getting rid of the breakouts in just 4 weeks and 9 out of 10 people were completely clear in 8 weeks with zero side effects.So that must mean LED light therapy is safe to use? The American Academy of Dermatology says YES! Since LED lights don’t have UV rays, they are considered a safe treatment. Light therapy won’t cause long-term damage to your skin. It is not invasive meaning it doesn’t break the surface of the skin, the light rays absorb into the skin. LED lights do not get hot so they will not burn the skin compared to other anti aging treatments like chemical peels, dermabrasion, and laser therapy. It is also safe for all skin colors and skin types. LED light therapy is not painful. There is no downtime after having a treatment either… so you won’t be walking around with a red face for 3 days the way you do after some really harsh chemical peels.The only thing you should be mindful of is if you are taking Accutane, a medication to treat severe acne, you shouldn’t use light therapy. You might wonder why since blue light therapy is great for acne? One of the side effects of Accutane is that it makes the skin very sensitive to light.  You will typically find LED light therapy services offered by a doctor’s office, medical spa, or day spa. In addition of course to the scary looking at-home masks. It is recommended to have the treatment done 1 to 2 times per week for 20 minutes for up to 10 weeks. You’ll have to be patient with this treatment...LED light therapy is not a quick fix. And most people only see minor results after their first treatment. Results are not permanent either. So it’s more of a cosmetic treatment than anything else. That is why maintenance treatments are recommended every few months.  All in all, LED light therapy is an amazing technology and a great alternative to more aggressive acne and anti aging treatments.

#26 Does LED light therapy really work? 

---Transcript---CBD has been recently covered  a lot in the media, and you may have even seen it as a booster to your protein shake, or morning coffee, or added in dog food, and of course in skincare. What exactly is CBD? And what does it do for your skin? That’s what we’ll cover today.CBD comes from the marijuana plant. It is the second largest active ingredients of cannabisThe largest active ingredient is called THC - that’s the molecule that makes people “high”Pure CBD, stressing “pure”, does not cause a “high”. This data comes from the World Health Organization. And is well studies and documentedCBD nowadays is claimed to help many health issues these days. But the strongest scientific evidence is for its efficacy in treating epilepsy. Some epilepsy syndromes, which usually don’t respond to anti-seizure medications, have actually responded well to CBD. In a number of studies, CBD was able to reduce the number of seizures, and in some cases it was able to stop them altogether. You can actually see videos online. Recently, the FDA approved the first cannabis-derived medicine for epilepsy, which contains CBD.CBD is also used to help anxiety, and also given to patients who suffer from insomnia.In addition, CBD may offer an option for treating chronic pain. A study from the European Journal of Pain showed that when applied on the skin of animals, CBD can help lower pain and inflammation due to arthritis. And there is another study that shows that CBD can help with inflammatory and neuropathic pain, which are notoriously difficult to treat. So far so good.Does it do anything for the skin?Many brands have incorporated it in their collections. Not just newer, less known brands. Kiehl’s has an oil with CBD in it. Josie Maran has a serum called Skin Dope. Ulta announced that it will start carrying a line of skin care products made with CBD that claim to calm and heal skin. So it’s in mainstream skincare now.CBD is a strong antioxidant — actually stronger than vitamin C and vitamin E. We know antioxidants stops DNA damage from UV exposure and environmental pollution. Which is great. But we already have a number of antioxidants in skincare that serve the same function. There is also data from a study published in 2014 in The Journal of Clinical Investigation that it can act as an anti-inflammatory. So some believe that it should be good for people with rosacea, eczema or acne. There are actually no studies that tested CBD for rosacea, eczema or acne actually.There is also data from several studies as early as 2014 suggesting that it lowers oil production in the skin. Which should make it useful for people with acne-prone skin. But again there is no actual study that shows it helps with acne. But although the evidence is slim, you may be willing to try it.Before you do, let’s review if it’s safe.CBD when taken orally is associated with side-effects like nausea, fatigue and irritability. It can also increase the level in your blood of a certain blood thinner. And and it can raise levels of certain other medications in your blood. There also is some indication that CBD might harm the liver. In various clinical trials, 5% to 20% of the patients developed elevated liver enzymes and some patients were withdrawn from the trials But these side effects are mostly if you take it orally, which you won’t if you’re using skincare. The biggest safety concern is that it’s unregulated and you don’t know what you’re buying.In 2017, researchers tested 84 different consumer products containing CBD and found that 26 percent of them contained less CBD than the label suggested. And a number of the products tested also contained THC - the drug part of the marijuana plant that gives you the high. Although it is unlikely to cause a "high" if a person applies it topically, it might be important to watch out if you have sensitive skin.So the net-net of all this for me personally is that it’s too early to try it. Between the fact that it’s not shown to do much and the questions around what’s in the product, I’ll give it more time. That’s all for today. Thanks for listening and I'll see you in the next one.

---Transcript---CBD has been recently covered  a lot in the media, and you may have even seen it as a booster to your protein shake, or morning coffee, or added in dog food, and of course in skincare.  What exactly is CBD? And what does it do for your skin? That’s what we’ll cover today. CBD comes from the marijuana plant. It is the second largest active ingredients of cannabis The largest active ingredient is called THC - that’s the molecule that makes people “high” Pure CBD, stressing “pure”, does not cause a “high”. This data comes from the World Health Organization. And is well studies and documented CBD nowadays is claimed to help many health issues these days. But the strongest scientific evidence is for its efficacy in treating epilepsy. Some epilepsy syndromes, which usually don’t respond to anti-seizure medications, have actually responded well to CBD.  In a number of studies, CBD was able to reduce the number of seizures, and in some cases it was able to stop them altogether. You can actually see videos online. Recently, the FDA approved the first cannabis-derived medicine for epilepsy, which contains CBD. CBD is also used to help anxiety, and also given to patients who suffer from insomnia. In addition, CBD may offer an option for treating chronic pain. A study from the European Journal of Pain showed that when applied on the skin of animals, CBD can help lower pain and inflammation due to arthritis. And there is another study that shows that CBD can help with inflammatory and neuropathic pain, which are notoriously difficult to treat.  So far so good. Does it do anything for the skin? Many brands have incorporated it in their collections. Not just newer, less known brands. Kiehl’s has an oil with CBD in it. Josie Maran has a serum called Skin Dope. Ulta announced that it will start carrying a line of skin care products made with CBD that claim to calm and heal skin. So it’s in mainstream skincare now. CBD is a strong antioxidant — actually stronger than vitamin C and vitamin E. We know antioxidants stops DNA damage from UV exposure and environmental pollution. Which is great. But we already have a number of antioxidants in skincare that serve the same function.  There is also data from a study published in 2014 in The Journal of Clinical Investigation that it can act as an anti-inflammatory. So some believe that it should be good for people with rosacea, eczema or acne. There are actually no studies that tested CBD for rosacea, eczema or acne actually. There is also data from several studies as early as 2014 suggesting that it lowers oil production in the skin. Which should make it useful for people with acne-prone skin. But again there is no actual study that shows it helps with acne.  But although the evidence is slim, you may be willing to try it. Before you do, let’s review if it’s safe. CBD when taken orally is associated with side-effects like nausea, fatigue and irritability. It can also increase the level in your blood of a certain blood thinner. And and it can raise levels of certain other medications in your blood.  There also is some indication that CBD might harm the liver. In various clinical trials, 5% to 20% of the patients developed elevated liver enzymes and some patients were withdrawn from the trials  But these side effects are mostly if you take it orally, which you won’t if you’re using skincare.  The biggest safety concern is that it’s unregulated and you don’t know what you’re buying. In 2017, researchers tested 84 different consumer products containing CBD and found that 26 percent of them contained less CBD than the label suggested.  And a number of the products tested also contained THC - the drug part of the marijuana plant that gives you the high. Although it is unlikely to cause a "high" if a person applies it topically, it might be important to watch out if you have sensitive skin. So the net-net of all this for me personally is that it’s too early to try it. Between the fact that it’s not shown to do much and the questions around what’s in the product, I’ll give it more time.  That’s all for today. Thanks for listening and I'll see you in the next one.

#11 Skintech review: CBD oil in skincare - helps, hurts, or doesn’t do anything?

In this episode Damyan talks to Kasey and Lorena - two licensed estheticians who are co-hosts of the Beauty Bizz BFFs podcast. They discuss the industry, go-to ingredients and products and tips and tricks for the most common skin issues.Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at https://www.openformula.comAsk him anything at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

In this episode Damyan talks to Kasey and Lorena - two licensed estheticians who are co-hosts of the Beauty Bizz BFFs podcast. They discuss the industry, go-to ingredients and products and tips and tricks for the most common skin issues. Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Ask him anything at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#46 Skincare talk with the Beauty Biz BFFs

----Transcript----I want to take better care of my skin. I want to take better care of myself. I want to exercise more. I want to… I want to…But I don’t have time... Isn’t that everyone’s biggest problem today?And I get it, you cannot fill anymore a glass that’s already full.The problem is that our glass gets filled by other people. And when we want to add something, there’s no space.Today, I want to talk about how to make space in your life and regain your time. So you can take better care of yourself, and do the things you want to do.Anxiety. It is the most commonly experienced emotion in the US today. Unlike many other emotions, which live for a short period of time, Anxiety is something we carry all the time. Why? Why are we so anxious? What’s missing?The one thing missing in most people’s lives today is time.Time not to just react and respond to the constant demands on us, but time for ourselves.And I wanna tell you that taking even a few minutes for yourself, to just breathe and connect, to think about the things YOU want from life… everything changes.And if you don’t, you can cross your entire to-do list, every day, every week, every month…. And still feel empty.Because what I’m talking about is a fulfilled life, a life you live on your time and your terms. Where you do the things you want. Instead of feeling anxiety. Which is so common for so many people… And you see people trying to change this state of anxiety all the time. To escape this emotional roller coaster.... So they can desperately find a moment of zen ...You know, the US has 5% of the global population, but consumes 90% of all the painkillers and 80% of all the cocaine out there. And it doesn’t have to be drugs. We reach for food when we’re not hungry for the same reasons. Because we get the same effect when we stuff our bellies. It feels GOOD. We relax. But are we fulfilled?These hectic lives we live SUFFOCATING for time are draining us. Chipping away at our mental health. We are so busy chasing deadlines, running errands, doing house chores. We are putting out fires all the time.And we are mostly taking care of EVERYONE ELSE’S NEEDS. But we don’t take care of our needs. We don’t stop to just feel. Or think. So while we chase the things to satisfy others… we reach out for something to get distracted ourselves. Because we need the ESCAPE. Why do people check their phones so often? Because it’s an ESCAPE from whatever they’re doing that’s NOT fulfilling enough.And here’s a funny thing… when I ask someone - hey, what are you doing this weekend? Or what are you doing for the holiday? Many people feel uneasy if they say “I don’t have anything”. Because as a society, we put busyness on a pedestal.It’s valuable. It makes you look good. You put-in the hours… Yeah! And we attach this stigma to “doing nothing”, to just having free time for ourselves.So I want to share a few things that help me take control of time. Most of us actually have more time than we think. For example, what do you do when you commute to work? What do you fill that time with? How about the vacation days you earned at work, but you didn’t take? So many people don’t take the full amount of vacation they have. Which is crazy! The point is there are more gaps of time in our lives than we recognize. So try to find them. And think - what you do with this time? And can you do something else instead?What causes this time-pressure induced anxiety so many people are feeling is this disconnect between your brain and your body where your brain is running at 100 miles an hour - I’ll do this and do that… and in 10 minutes it has concocted a whole new reality for you, but your body just started doing the first task along the way.And you’re brain already feels you’re behind. So taking a moment to get centered after you finish a task, allows you to sync up your brain.. and your body.. so they are working together. And the most helpful exercise I do periodically that truly moves the needle in my life when it comes to owning my own time is making a not-to-do list. You’re so busy running and chasing things. But what are the things that you spend time on... that don’t serve your goals - whatever your goals are - taking care of yourself, personal growth, financial security, empowerment, family, faith, etc? Here’s a little story… Mom one day sees the gardener cutting the grass at my house… and she made a comment - you’re a big shot, huh. I said, no mom, it’s not that. It’s because I have my priorities straight. I want to make an impact on the world, I want to work on my company, I want to get better at the things I do.. And then... go home and be with my children. Take them to the park. Go watch their swimming competitions. Because these are the things I want in my life... That’s what a fulfilled life is for me. That’s my definition of living on my own time, on my own terms. That’s why you need a not-to-do list.So think about the things you want to remove from your daily routine. And they probably won’t be major things. Because we don’t have big blocks of time to find. We have to find incremental moments. And once you create your not-to-do list, there are only 3 things you do with these items. Automate. Delegate. Eliminate.Here’s a silly example. I have an older friend who was complaining about time. ‘No, you don’t understand, I’m so busy and I gotta do everything I do”. And I found out, he was paying his bills with checks - literally 2-3 hours a week, and going to the T-mobile to drop off a check. I was... you can automate this. Once you do it, it take 5 minutes and it’s done. My lawn and yard work... I delegated it. And it was liberating. 2 hours saved. Every week. This is 2 hours on the weekend! Am I too good for manual labor for not doing it? Absolutely not. That’s just time I can spend with my family.And if you can’t automate, or delegate it, you eliminate it. I personally had this tendency to try and help people around me, even if they were not seeking out my help. Specifically those who were more often than not unhappy, and more often than not negative. I’d see things these people could change, they could do differently to improve their lives.And I tried to help them. But you know what, it almost never did much. Because they themselves were not ready for the change. So I stopped doing it. I’d still have a conversation with them, but now only help those who want my help. I encourage you to make your not-to-do list. It did wonders for me when it comes to making time.Because you can’t add more in your glass... if it’s already full. You can’t move the needle in your life when it comes to happiness and joy, until you start saying no to things...That's all I have for today.I hope to see you in the next one. And if you know someone who is strapped for time and is feeling this anxiety all the time please share this and let's help people out. 

----Transcript----I want to take better care of my skin. I want to take better care of myself. I want to exercise more. I want to… I want to… But I don’t have time... Isn’t that everyone’s biggest problem today? And I get it, you cannot fill anymore a glass that’s already full. The problem is that our glass gets filled by other people. And when we want to add something, there’s no space. Today, I want to talk about how to make space in your life and regain your time. So you can take better care of yourself, and do the things you want to do. Anxiety. It is the most commonly experienced emotion in the US today. Unlike many other emotions, which live for a short period of time, Anxiety is something we carry all the time. Why? Why are we so anxious? What’s missing? The one thing missing in most people’s lives today is time. Time not to just react and respond to the constant demands on us, but time for ourselves. And I wanna tell you that taking even a few minutes for yourself, to just breathe and connect, to think about the things YOU want from life… everything changes. And if you don’t, you can cross your entire to-do list, every day, every week, every month…. And still feel empty. Because what I’m talking about is a fulfilled life, a life you live on your time and your terms. Where you do the things you want. Instead of feeling anxiety.  Which is so common for so many people… And you see people trying to change this state of anxiety all the time. To escape this emotional roller coaster.... So they can desperately find a moment of zen ...You know, the US has 5% of the global population, but consumes 90% of all the painkillers and 80% of all the cocaine out there. And it doesn’t have to be drugs. We reach for food when we’re not hungry for the same reasons. Because we get the same effect when we stuff our bellies. It feels GOOD. We relax.  But are we fulfilled? These hectic lives we live SUFFOCATING for time are draining us. Chipping away at our mental health. We are so busy chasing deadlines, running errands, doing house chores. We are putting out fires all the time. And we are mostly taking care of EVERYONE ELSE’S NEEDS. But we don’t take care of our needs. We don’t stop to just feel. Or think. So while we chase the things to satisfy others… we reach out for something to get distracted ourselves. Because we need the ESCAPE. Why do people check their phones so often? Because it’s an ESCAPE from whatever they’re doing that’s NOT fulfilling enough. And here’s a funny thing… when I ask someone - hey, what are you doing this weekend? Or what are you doing for the holiday? Many people feel uneasy if they say “I don’t have anything”. Because as a society, we put busyness on a pedestal.It’s valuable. It makes you look good. You put-in the hours… Yeah! And we attach this stigma to “doing nothing”, to just having free time for ourselves. So I want to share a few things that help me take control of time.  Most of us actually have more time than we think. For example, what do you do when you commute to work? What do you fill that time with? How about the vacation days you earned at work, but you didn’t take? So many people don’t take the full amount of vacation they have. Which is crazy! The point is there are more gaps of time in our lives than we recognize. So try to find them. And think - what you do with this time? And can you do something else instead? What causes this time-pressure induced anxiety so many people are feeling is this disconnect between your brain and your body where your brain is running at 100 miles an hour - I’ll do this and do that… and in 10 minutes it has concocted a whole new reality for you, but your body just started doing the first task along the way.And you’re brain already feels you’re behind. So taking a moment to get centered after you finish a task, allows you to sync up your brain.. and your body.. so they are working together.  And the most helpful exercise I do periodically that truly moves the needle in my life when it comes to owning my own time is making a not-to-do list.  You’re so busy running and chasing things. But what are the things that you spend time on... that don’t serve your goals - whatever your goals are - taking care of yourself, personal growth, financial security, empowerment, family, faith, etc?  Here’s a little story… Mom one day sees the gardener cutting the grass at my house… and she made a comment - you’re a big shot, huh. I said, no mom, it’s not that. It’s because I have my priorities straight. I want to make an impact on the world, I want to work on my company, I want to get better at the things I do.. And then... go home and be with my children. Take them to the park. Go watch their swimming competitions. Because these are the things I want in my life... That’s what a fulfilled life is for me. That’s my definition of living on my own time, on my own terms. That’s why you need a not-to-do list. So think about the things you want to remove from your daily routine. And they probably won’t be major things. Because we don’t have big blocks of time to find. We have to find incremental moments.  And once you create your not-to-do list, there are only 3 things you do with these items. Automate. Delegate. Eliminate. Here’s a silly example. I have an older friend who was complaining about time. ‘No, you don’t understand, I’m so busy and I gotta do everything I do”. And I found out, he was paying his bills with checks - literally 2-3 hours a week, and going to the T-mobile to drop off a check. I was... you can automate this. Once you do it, it take 5 minutes and it’s done.  My lawn and yard work... I delegated it. And it was liberating. 2 hours saved. Every week. This is 2 hours on the weekend! Am I too good for manual labor for not doing it? Absolutely not. That’s just time I can spend with my family. And if you can’t automate, or delegate it, you eliminate it. I personally had this tendency to try and help people around me, even if they were not seeking out my help. Specifically those who were more often than not unhappy, and more often than not negative. I’d see things these people could change, they could do differently to improve their lives.And I tried to help them. But you know what, it almost never did much. Because they themselves were not ready for the change. So I stopped doing it. I’d still have a conversation with them, but now only help those who want my help.  I encourage you to make your not-to-do list. It did wonders for me when it comes to making time. Because you can’t add more in your glass... if it’s already full.  You can’t move the needle in your life when it comes to happiness and joy, until you start saying no to things... That's all I have for today. I hope to see you in the next one. And if you know someone who is strapped for time and is feeling this anxiety all the time please share this and let's help people out.

#15 This is why you need a NOT-TO-DO list

Azelaic acid - the next best thingAzelaic acid is a skincare ingredient that keeps popping up more and more on social media, but what is it? It's flown under the radar for a long time, but I think it's time for this unique ingredient to shine.What is Azelaic Acid?Azelaic acid actually naturally occurs on the skin, produced by type of yeast. But don’t worry! The azelaic acid that we apply to our skin is made in a lab. It's a super-ingredient that helps with a huge range of skin concerns, but not a lot of people know what it is.Despite having “acid” in its name, it's not a strong acid like you might think. It's not part of any BHA, AHA, or PHA acid category. It's in a category of its own called dicarboxylic acid. It doesn't exfoliate in the same way other acids do. In fact, it can be used alongside traditional exfoliating acids to boost their effects. Just make sure not to overdo it!If you have rosacea, you've probably already heard of azelaic acid. It's highly recommended for helping to calm down most reddening and swelling symptoms—and that's not all it does for the skin. People with all kinds of different skin concerns are singing its praises for giving them glowing skin. But how is that possible?So What Does Azelaic Acid Do for Skin, Exactly?The major reason that azelaic acid is starting to gain popularity is that it basically does everything right for your skin—it’s anti-inflammatory, it calms rosacea, brightens the look of hyperpigmentation, and can even prevent acne. Let’s get into how it helps each of these skin concerns.Azelaic Acid For Reducing RosaceaCalming down rosacea flare-ups was one of the first uses of azelaic acid in skincare, and is still an effective treatment for this condition. Rosacea is more than just skin that's prone to turn red and get inflamed—but the powerful anti-inflammatory effects of azelaic acid definitely help! It fights free radicals, which is what helps with inflammation.Alongside this redness, fluid-filled bumps form on skin like pimples—but they're not regular acne. Azelaic acid is amazing for clearing these bumps and redness from the skin. A 2017 study found that almost all of its participants had significantly clearer skin after 16 consecutive weeks of Azelaic acid treatment at 15% concentration. Azelaic Acid For Treating AcneWhat’s most impressive (in my opinion) about azelaic acid is how it tackles acne. It approaches acne at different angles, which is what makes it so effective in treating it. First, it has antibacterial abilities that kill acne-causing bacteria. It even wipes out many antibiotic-resistant bacteria strains. Studies have also shown that P. acnes bacteria are unable to form a resistance to azelaic acid over time, so it stays effective as a long-term treatment. While this is pretty awesome on its own, it’s not the only thing that azelaic has up its sleeve.It also helps regulate the growth of skin cells lining the hair follicles. Which in turn stops pores from getting blocked. In this way, it provides a very gentle form of exfoliation, refining pores and preventing acne. Compared to other acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide, it also doesn't bleach fabric—more than a few people have ruined towels and clothes with benzoyl peroxide, right? With this stuff, you don't even have to worry about that.As well as getting ahead of pimples before they start, it can even lighten the dark marks left behind by acne—leading to the next benefit of this under-the-radar ingredient. Azelaic Acid Lightens Hyperpigmentation &amp; MelasmaAzelaic acid is a miracle worker when it comes to uneven skin tone. It works on both melasma (dark spotting) and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), even though they’re both caused by very different things.Melasma appears as pigmented splotches that are usually symmetrical. Exactly why it occurs isn’t clear, but factors such as hormones and UV exposure are believed to play a part.PIH is the aftermath of acne. Pimples don’t always leave indented scars, but they can leave behind dark spots. These dark spots are extra melanocytes or melanin (aka skin pigment cells) that have built up around where the pimple used to be. Azelaic acid is effective on both of them by acting as a tyrosinase inhibitor. Tyrosinase is one of the enzymes in our skin that's responsible for making melanin. Azelaic acid basically stops tyrosinase from starting the melanin-creating process, causing the unevenness to eventually fade away. This means that azelaic acid can be used not just to heal acne, but to get the skin back to 100% blemish-free as a long-term skin treatment.In conclusion…Azelaic acid is as versatile and helpful to the skin as other commonly praised skincare treatment, such as tretinoin and vitamin C. What else is fantastic about azelaic acid is the fact that it's incredibly gentle, especially when compared to molecules such as tretinoin, aka Retin-A.Tretinoin causes a lot of dryness and peeling in the first few weeks. Not to mention “the purge” that many people report going through when first starting this intense retinoid. In comparison, almost all studies on azelaic acid state that it’s “very well tolerated” with pretty minimal side effects. Some people do report a little bit of initial dryness, but typically not as intense as tretinoin. If I had to choose between azelaic acid and tretinoin knowing they’re basically equally effective, I think I would go for the one with a smoother road to success. (hint: it’s azelaic acid).Most studies do focus on higher amounts of Azelaic acid—15% to 20%— but that doesn’t mean it’s not effective at lower concentrations.However, you don’t need to pay for flight tickets just to head somewhere to get it over the counter—there are effective options available to buy  in concentrations up to 10%. If you’ve got any of these concerns—acne, hyperpigmentation, rosacea—azelaic acid is definitely an ingredient worth looking into!

Azelaic acid - the next best thing Azelaic acid is a skincare ingredient that keeps popping up more and more on social media, but what is it? It's flown under the radar for a long time, but I think it's time for this unique ingredient to shine.What is Azelaic Acid? Azelaic acid actually<a href="https://dermnetnz.org/topics/azelaic-acid/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> naturally occurs</a> on the skin, produced by type of yeast. But don’t worry! The azelaic acid that we apply to our skin is made in a lab. It's a super-ingredient that helps with a huge range of skin concerns, but not a lot of people know what it is. Despite having “acid” in its name, it's not a strong acid like you might think. It's not part of any BHA, AHA, or PHA acid category. It's in a category of its own called dicarboxylic acid. It doesn't exfoliate in the same way other acids do. In fact, it can be used alongside traditional exfoliating acids to boost their effects. Just make sure not to overdo it! If you have rosacea, you've probably already heard of azelaic acid. It's highly recommended for helping to calm down most reddening and swelling symptoms—and that's not all it does for the skin. People with all kinds of different skin concerns are singing its praises for giving them glowing skin. But how is that possible?So What Does Azelaic Acid Do for Skin, Exactly? The major reason that azelaic acid is starting to gain popularity is that it basically does everything right for your skin—it’s anti-inflammatory, it calms rosacea, brightens the look of hyperpigmentation, and can even prevent acne. Let’s get into how it helps each of these skin concerns.Azelaic Acid For Reducing Rosacea Calming down rosacea flare-ups was one of the first uses of azelaic acid in skincare, and is still an effective treatment for this condition. Rosacea is more than just skin that's prone to turn red and get inflamed—but the powerful<a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26355614-azelaic-acid-evidence-based-update-on-mechanism-of-action-and-clinical-application/?from_term=azelaic+acid&amp;from_pos=1" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> anti-inflammatory effects</a> of azelaic acid definitely help! It fights free radicals, which is what helps with inflammation. Alongside this redness,<a href="https://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/guide/skin-conditions-rosacea#1" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> fluid-filled bumps form on skin</a> like pimples—but they're not regular acne. Azelaic acid is amazing for clearing these bumps and redness from the skin. A<a href="https://www.skintherapyletter.com/rosacea/efficacy-azelaic-acid/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> 2017 study</a> found that almost all of its participants had significantly clearer skin after 16 consecutive weeks of Azelaic acid treatment at 15% concentration.  Azelaic Acid For Treating Acne What’s most impressive (in my opinion) about azelaic acid is how it tackles acne. It approaches acne at different angles, which is what makes it so effective in treating it.  First, it has<a href="https://www.karger.com/Article/Abstract/354888" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> antibacterial abilities</a> that kill acne-causing bacteria. It even wipes out many antibiotic-resistant bacteria strains. Studies have also shown that P. acnes bacteria are<a href="https://jddonline.com/articles/dermatology/S1545961615P0964X/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> unable to form a resistance</a> to azelaic acid over time, so it stays effective as a long-term treatment. While this is pretty awesome on its own, it’s not the only thing that azelaic has up its sleeve.It also helps <a href="https://dermnetnz.org/topics/azelaic-acid/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">regulate the growth of skin cells lining the hair follicles</a>. Which in turn stops pores from getting blocked. In this way, it provides a very gentle form of exfoliation, refining pores and preventing acne.  Compared to other acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide, it also doesn't bleach fabric—more than a few people have ruined towels and clothes with benzoyl peroxide, right? With this stuff, you don't even have to worry about that.As well as getting ahead of pimples before they start, it can even lighten the dark marks left behind by acne—leading to the next benefit of this under-the-radar ingredient. Azelaic Acid Lightens Hyperpigmentation &amp; Melasma Azelaic acid is a miracle worker when it comes to uneven skin tone. It works on both melasma (dark spotting) and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), even though they’re both caused by very different things. Melasma appears as pigmented splotches that are usually symmetrical. Exactly why it occurs isn’t clear, but factors such as hormones and UV exposure are believed to play a part.PIH is the aftermath of acne. Pimples don’t always leave indented scars, but they can leave behind dark spots. These dark spots are<a href="https://dermnetnz.org/topics/postinflammatory-hyperpigmentation/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> extra melanocytes</a> or melanin (aka skin pigment cells) that have built up around where the pimple used to be. Azelaic acid is effective on both of them by acting as a<a href="https://jddonline.com/articles/dermatology/S1545961615P0964X/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> tyrosinase inhibitor</a>. Tyrosinase is one of the enzymes in our skin that's responsible for making melanin. Azelaic acid basically stops tyrosinase from starting the melanin-creating process, causing the unevenness to eventually fade away. This means that azelaic acid can be used not just to heal acne, but to get the skin back to 100% blemish-free as a long-term skin treatment.In conclusion… Azelaic acid is as versatile and helpful to the skin as other commonly praised skincare treatment, such as tretinoin and vitamin C. What else is fantastic about azelaic acid is the fact that it's incredibly gentle, especially when compared to molecules such as tretinoin, aka Retin-A.Tretinoin causes a lot of dryness and peeling in the first few weeks. Not to mention “the purge” that many people report going through when first starting this intense retinoid. In comparison, almost all studies on azelaic acid state that it’s “<a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.2165%2F00003495-199141050-00007" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">very well tolerated</a>” with pretty minimal side effects. Some people do report a little bit of initial dryness, but typically not as intense as tretinoin. If I had to choose between azelaic acid and tretinoin knowing they’re<a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.2165%2F00003495-199141050-00007" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> basically equally effective</a>, I think I would go for the one with a smoother road to success. (hint: it’s azelaic acid).Most studies do focus on higher amounts of Azelaic acid—15% to 20%— but that doesn’t mean it’s not effective at lower concentrations.However, you don’t need to pay for flight tickets just to head somewhere to get it over the counter—there are effective options available to buy  in concentrations up to 10%. If you’ve got any of these concerns—acne, hyperpigmentation, rosacea—azelaic acid is definitely an ingredient worth looking into!

#53 Azelaic Acid: The Next Best Thing

Your skincare regimen is not a series of products you use. It’s about the functions these products serve. And there are only 3 of them. If a product doesn’t serve any of them, it probably doesn’t belong in your regimen.Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. Over 500,000 people have used his products. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at https://www.openformula.comReach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

Your skincare regimen is not a series of products you use. It’s about the functions these products serve. And there are only 3 of them. If a product doesn’t serve any of them, it probably doesn’t belong in your regimen. Damyan Nikolov is a host, entrepreneur and a skincare formulator. Over 500,000 people have used his products. He is the founder of Open Formula - clinical skincare for every budget. Check it out at <a href="https://www.openformula.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://www.openformula.com</a> Reach out at ask@openformula.com or on Instagram @damyannikolov

#77 The 3 Parts of the Ultimate Skincare Regimen

---Transcript---So how many of you feel overwhelmed with choices when shopping for beauty products. After all Sephora carries over 5000 different products. Ulta has over 20,000, not to mention the department stores. It surely seems like a ton. The question is - is all this choice real? So the big question is this - What do people with great skin do differently to have that? How did they achieve a great look without using celebrity beauticians or spending a paycheck to re-stock their beauty cabinet? What are their mindsets, their approaches, their rituals, the products and tools they use? That is the question and as podcast will give you the answers. My name is Damyan Nikolov and welcome to Skincare Secrets. Hi everyone, welcome to Episode 9 of the Skincare Secrets show. Today I want to talk about consumer choice when it comes to beauty products, which is actually only 20% choice and 80% a total illusion.  On the surface the beauty industry offers you seemingly unlimited number of choices but when you dig in you find that seven big corporations own the top 200 beauty brands. And remember how Sephora carries 5000 different products. They actually come from only 250 different brands.  So 80 percent of everything in the store comes from these 7 corporations. And you've heard of them - L'Oreal, Shiseido, Estee Lauder, Johnson and Johnson et cetera. Now, imagine if you walked into the beauty store and instead of all these brands you see on the shelves you actually saw only seven names across all the products on the shelves. Things would look much different wouldn't they?  This unfortunately is not quite disclosed openly. You have to dig and read to find this out. And it begs the question - why would someone like Estee Lauder companies for example need 35 different skin care brands?  Aren't they competing with themselves? And even more importantly what's really different about them, other than the packaging and the prices so they can target the premium market or the 50+ market or whatever?  Because they share the same ingredient suppliers many of them use the same contract manufacturing facilities. So really what's so different about them? So obviously the big corporations want to position these brands as new and different and exciting. That's why combined they spend over 25 billion dollars every year on marketing and advertising.  Just think about this number for a second. Twenty five billion! And it's not just TV and radio and magazines. A lot of the posts and reviews online now are paid by these corporations. So I'm talking about about Instagram, YouTube, Facebook etc.  These paid social reviews are growing at a rate of 500 percent in 2019. And this becomes the information we use to decide what to buy. So the question really is - are we buying beauty products or are we being sold to?  Ultimately, the burden is on us as buyers to educate ourselves so we can make the right choices. Because remember, at the end of the day brands don't deliver results. Only ingredients do.  And when it comes to skincare, for example, there are only so many ingredients that have proven efficacy. Like SPF and retinoids and Vitamin C etc.  And we want to see these ingredients in the products along with their concentrations so we know there's enough of those ingredients in the product to work and not just to make a claim it does. So next time you're in the store or you're online looking for beauty products try and ignore the brand name and focus on what's inside the bottle or the jar and make sure that's good for your skin. .  Because ultimately, we as the buyers hold the power because we choose what to buy. So stay educated to make the right choices.  That's all for today. It's a short episode. If you'll like this content please subscribe and share it and I'll see you in the next one. Till then - live strong, live with purpose. 

---Transcript---So how many of you feel overwhelmed with choices when shopping for beauty products. After all Sephora carries over 5000 different products. Ulta has over 20,000, not to mention the department stores. It surely seems like a ton. The question is - is all this choice real? So the big question is this - What do people with great skin do differently to have that? How did they achieve a great look without using celebrity beauticians or spending a paycheck to re-stock their beauty cabinet? What are their mindsets, their approaches, their rituals, the products and tools they use? That is the question and as podcast will give you the answers. My name is Damyan Nikolov and welcome to Skincare Secrets. Hi everyone, welcome to Episode 9 of the Skincare Secrets show. Today I want to talk about consumer choice when it comes to beauty products, which is actually only 20% choice and 80% a total illusion.  On the surface the beauty industry offers you seemingly unlimited number of choices but when you dig in you find that seven big corporations own the top 200 beauty brands. And remember how Sephora carries 5000 different products. They actually come from only 250 different brands.  So 80 percent of everything in the store comes from these 7 corporations. And you've heard of them - L'Oreal, Shiseido, Estee Lauder, Johnson and Johnson et cetera. Now, imagine if you walked into the beauty store and instead of all these brands you see on the shelves you actually saw only seven names across all the products on the shelves. Things would look much different wouldn't they?  This unfortunately is not quite disclosed openly. You have to dig and read to find this out. And it begs the question - why would someone like Estee Lauder companies for example need 35 different skin care brands?  Aren't they competing with themselves? And even more importantly what's really different about them, other than the packaging and the prices so they can target the premium market or the 50+ market or whatever?  Because they share the same ingredient suppliers many of them use the same contract manufacturing facilities. So really what's so different about them? So obviously the big corporations want to position these brands as new and different and exciting. That's why combined they spend over 25 billion dollars every year on marketing and advertising.  Just think about this number for a second. Twenty five billion! And it's not just TV and radio and magazines. A lot of the posts and reviews online now are paid by these corporations. So I'm talking about about Instagram, YouTube, Facebook etc.  These paid social reviews are growing at a rate of 500 percent in 2019. And this becomes the information we use to decide what to buy. So the question really is - are we buying beauty products or are we being sold to?  Ultimately, the burden is on us as buyers to educate ourselves so we can make the right choices. Because remember, at the end of the day brands don't deliver results. Only ingredients do.  And when it comes to skincare, for example, there are only so many ingredients that have proven efficacy. Like SPF and retinoids and Vitamin C etc.  And we want to see these ingredients in the products along with their concentrations so we know there's enough of those ingredients in the product to work and not just to make a claim it does. So next time you're in the store or you're online looking for beauty products try and ignore the brand name and focus on what's inside the bottle or the jar and make sure that's good for your skin. .  Because ultimately, we as the buyers hold the power because we choose what to buy. So stay educated to make the right choices.  That's all for today. It's a short episode. If you'll like this content please subscribe and share it and I'll see you in the next one. Till then - live strong, live with purpose.

#9 The 7 elephants in the beauty store

The Great Debate - Is Toner A Must?Toner is a topic that everyone seems to think they have the answer to. But, do we really need toner? There doesn’t seem to be a skincare brand out there that doesn’t have one tacked onto their line. But are they necessary or are we being sold something extra that we don’t really need?What Is Toner, Anyway?Toners first appeared as tonics advertised widely early in the 20th century. Different formulations addressed specific concerns—pretty similar to today—but most were cleaning and oil-reducing astringents, containing ingredients like harsh alcohols, witch hazel extract, and borax. As you may be able to tell, not many of these are highly regarded anymore as major skincare ingredients. Aren't you thankful for modern skincare advancements?!Before we were able to develop all the different kinds of face washes and other products we're familiar with today, people used to wash their faces with bar soap. Yep, that traditional blend of fat and lye (sodium hydroxide) was the standard for total body cleansing—face included!Traditional soap is very alkaline and basic, whereas our skin is naturally acidic. Toners were and are still used to balance the pH of the skin. They’re also seen as another cleansing step for the skin, often by wiping the product on the face with a cotton pad.The big question is do we need these now that we've moved on from using bar soaps on our faces? While this can’t be said for 100% of them, there are so many face washes out there that do leave skin pretty pH balanced after washing in the first place. So how are there so many toners still being sold by skincare companies? Depending on the type of toner, there’s solid evidence on both ends.What Are the Types of Toners Out There?Because toners are almost always thin, runny liquids, they're a popular medium for delivering ingredients with specific benefits to the skin. This has resulted in a huge variety of toners coming to market. I’ve put together a guide to show you how to tell which kind of toner does what. Pretty much the only thing they have in common is that they're meant to be used after cleansing, but the similarities stop there. There are also different ways to use the varying types of toners. So stay with me, and you could learn a thing or two about getting the most out of your toner!Hydrating TonersHydrating toners are extremely popular and considered just as necessary in a skincare routine as a cleanser in places like Japan and Korea. Confusingly, they're usually referred to as lotions, but you can tell what they are if the description says “watery lotion.” Hydrating toners usually contain ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, beta-glucan, and glycerin, to name a few. They typically have many humectants in their ingredients lists. Humectants are ingredients that have water-absorbing properties once they’re applied to the skin, ensuring that the skin has a steady supply of hydration.A lot of the brands that produce hydrating toners actually suggest not to apply them with a cotton pad. Why? Well, a cotton pad uses up extra product in order to get a proper application to the face. Your skin doesn’t get the most out of these products if you just swipe them on and leave the rest to dry on the wasted pad. I know what you’re thinking.“How am I supposed to apply them without a cotton round?”Literally, just with your hands. You’re meant to pour a nickel-sized amount in your palms, rub your hands together and then press the toner into your skin until absorbed. Just make sure you’re hands are clean beforehand. Super simple, right. Exfoliating TonersExfoliating toners have had a surge in popularity because they deliver visible results fairly quickly. They're usually formulated with either a specific type of acid or a blend of multiple ones formulated together. As chemical exfoliants, these toners are a great way to meet any of your exfoliation needs. They're great for addressing multiple concerns—acne, hyperpigmentation, anti-aging, and skin texture are all zapped by different types of acids. Some common ingredients you will notice in exfoliant toners are:Salicylic acid, a BHA, is usually recommended for oily and acne-prone skin types. It’s best for decongesting skin.Glycolic, Lactic, and Mandelic acids are part of the AHA family. They’re better for treating uneven skin and addressing anti-aging concerns.Just like hydrating toners, exfoliating toners are best applied with bare hands, if you’re not finding it too difficult to control. Antioxidant tonersIn these formulations, you will find CoQ10, Vitamin C, Niacinamide, or other prominent antioxidants. Those boost your defense against free radicals - those unstable molecules that can come from sun exposure and pollution and will cause all kinds of damage to your skin.Traditional TonersWhen I say traditional toners, I'm referring to products that are (usually) high in alcohol, and maybe with a little witch hazel with little else to offer the skin. These are the least helpful types of toners because they offer so few actual benefits to the skin. Yes, you can sometimes see grime from the day left on the cotton ball after using, but in most cases that shows that you need to do a better job washing your face with a cleanser.Alcohol is drying to the skin, and higher levels should especially be avoided. They do help other ingredients penetrate more, so they are sometimes used in acid peels, which is the only place where I’d make an exception (because they are not leave-on products)So, Do We Need Toners?As always, it’s all about the ingredients. It depends on what you’re trying to achieve with your skin, and what other products you are using. Not every person out there needs a toner. But if your skin is lacking in hydration, a toner rich in hyaluronic acid could be what your routine needs. If you’re still looking for a very mild exfoliator, an acidic toner could be the answer.The only type of toner that doesn’t fit into a routine is the traditional alcohol-based type, in my opinion. Not enough benefits to justify using one, especially compared to the other three types! I can hear the traditional toner fans screaming now—but the thing is, if you’re still getting a gunky cotton round after cleansing, it’s probably time to switch to a double-cleanse or try out a new face wash! 

The Great Debate - Is Toner A Must? Toner is a topic that everyone seems to think they have the answer to. But, do we really need toner? There doesn’t seem to be a skincare brand out there that doesn’t have one tacked onto their line. But are they necessary or are we being sold something extra that we don’t really need? What Is Toner, Anyway? Toners first appeared as tonics advertised widely early in the 20th century. Different formulations addressed specific concerns—pretty similar to today—but most were cleaning and oil-reducing astringents, containing ingredients like harsh alcohols, witch hazel extract, and borax. As you may be able to tell, not many of these are highly regarded anymore as major skincare ingredients. Aren't you thankful for modern skincare advancements?! Before we were able to develop all the different kinds of face washes and other products we're familiar with today, people used to wash their faces with bar soap. Yep, that traditional blend of fat and lye (sodium hydroxide) was the standard for total body cleansing—face included!Traditional soap is very alkaline and basic, whereas our skin is<a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/30130782" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> naturally acidic</a>. Toners were and are still used to balance the pH of the skin. They’re also seen as another cleansing step for the skin, often by wiping the product on the face with a cotton pad.The big question is do we need these now that we've moved on from using bar soaps on our faces? While this can’t be said for 100% of them, there are so many face washes out there that do leave skin pretty pH balanced after washing in the first place. So how are there so many toners still being sold by skincare companies? Depending on the type of toner, there’s solid evidence on both ends. What Are the Types of Toners Out There? Because toners are almost always thin, runny liquids, they're a popular medium for delivering ingredients with specific benefits to the skin. This has resulted in a huge variety of toners coming to market. I’ve put together a guide to show you how to tell which kind of toner does what.  Pretty much the only thing they have in common is that they're meant to be used after cleansing, but the similarities stop there. There are also different ways to use the varying types of toners. So stay with me, and you could learn a thing or two about getting the most out of your toner!<ol><li>Hydrating Toners</li></ol>Hydrating toners are extremely popular and considered just as necessary in a skincare routine as a cleanser in places like Japan and Korea. Confusingly, they're usually referred to as lotions, but you can tell what they are if the description says “watery lotion.” Hydrating toners usually contain ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, beta-glucan, and glycerin, to name a few. They typically have many humectants in their ingredients lists. Humectants are ingredients that have<a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4885180/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> water-absorbing properties</a> once they’re applied to the skin, ensuring that the skin has a steady supply of hydration.A lot of the brands that produce hydrating toners actually suggest not to apply them with a cotton pad. Why? Well, a cotton pad uses up extra product in order to get a proper application to the face. Your skin doesn’t get the most out of these products if you just swipe them on and leave the rest to dry on the wasted pad. I know what you’re thinking.“How am I supposed to apply them without a cotton round?” Literally, just with your hands. You’re meant to pour a nickel-sized amount in your palms, rub your hands together and then press the toner into your skin until absorbed. Just make sure you’re hands are clean beforehand. Super simple, right. <ol><li>Exfoliating Toners</li></ol>Exfoliating toners have had a surge in popularity because they deliver visible results fairly quickly. They're usually formulated with either a specific type of acid or a blend of multiple ones formulated together. As chemical exfoliants, these toners are a great way to meet any of your exfoliation needs. They're great for addressing multiple concerns—acne, hyperpigmentation, anti-aging, and skin texture are all zapped by different types of acids. Some common ingredients you will notice in exfoliant toners are:Salicylic acid, a BHA, is usually recommended for oily and acne-prone skin types. It’s best for decongesting skin.Glycolic, Lactic, and Mandelic acids are part of the AHA family. They’re better for treating uneven skin and addressing anti-aging concerns. Just like hydrating toners, exfoliating toners are best applied with bare hands, if you’re not finding it too difficult to control. <ol><li>Antioxidant toners</li></ol>In these formulations, you will find CoQ10, Vitamin C, Niacinamide, or other prominent antioxidants. Those boost your defense against free radicals - those unstable molecules that can come from sun exposure and pollution and will cause all kinds of damage to your skin.<ol><li>Traditional Toners</li></ol>When I say traditional toners, I'm referring to products that are (usually) high in alcohol, and maybe with a little witch hazel with little else to offer the skin. These are the least helpful types of toners because they offer so few actual benefits to the skin. Yes, you can sometimes see grime from the day left on the cotton ball after using, but in most cases that shows that you need to do a better job washing your face with a cleanser.<a href="https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/basic-skin-care-tips/alcohol-in-skin-care-the-facts.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Alcohol is drying to the skin</a>, and higher levels should especially be avoided. They do help other ingredients penetrate more, so they are sometimes used in acid peels, which is the only place where I’d make an exception (because they are not leave-on products)So, Do We Need Toners? As always, it’s all about the ingredients. It depends on what you’re trying to achieve with your skin, and what other products you are using. Not every person out there needs a toner. But if your skin is lacking in hydration, a toner rich in hyaluronic acid could be what your routine needs. If you’re still looking for a very mild exfoliator, an acidic toner could be the answer.The only type of toner that doesn’t fit into a routine is the traditional alcohol-based type, in my opinion. Not enough benefits to justify using one, especially compared to the other three types! I can hear the traditional toner fans screaming now—but the thing is, if you’re still getting a gunky cotton round after cleansing, it’s probably time to switch to a double-cleanse or try out a new face wash!

#58 Is Toner Necessary?

--Transcript--So what's up with the double cleanse? A lot of people are doing it, a whole lot of people are talking about it, and there's a ton of people who actually have no clue what it is. Double cleanse is when you use an oil cleanser before your foam-based cleanser. So you basically are cleansing twice. The question is, is it good for you and should you do it? That's what we're covering today. Welcome to episode three of the Skincare Secret Show. So the big question is this, what do people with great skin do differently to have that? How do they achieve a great look without using celebrity beauticians or spending a paycheck to restock their beauty cabinet. What are their mindsets, their approaches, the rituals the products and tools they use? That is the question and this podcast will give you the answers. My name is Damyan Nikolov and welcome to Skincare Secrets. I’'ll give you some reasons to double cleanse, and cleanse in general. How about 40,000 of them. So your skin sheds 40,000 dead skin cells every minute. Just think about it, every minute, and those have to come off. The best way is through cleansing so you can get rid of them because if you don't, they get mixed up with oil, with makeup, with SPF and whatnot, and you get milia or worse, you get acne. And if this is not enough, I'll give you another 20,000 thousand reasons, your face has approximately 20,000 pores. And when those pores get filled up with gunk, they stretch out and when they stretch out they look huge. And nobody likes that. I know it's a major category in the beauty space, products that minimize pores, but one of the best ways to actually minimize the look of your pores, is to keep your skin clean so that they shrink back to their normal size. And what are you actually cleansing when you're double cleansing? Besides obviously the makeup and the SPF and all that stuff, you're actually getting rid of your natural oil called sebum, that the skin produces, and that's something that plays a very important role in the body. On one end, it regulates heat and body temperature, on the other end it prevents bacteria from landing on the skin and causing acne and other kinds of issues. So you have to look at cleansing in moderation and make sure you're not disturbing that balance that the skin has. Certain signs that you are over cleansing, if you're doing double cleanse twice a day for example for an extended period of time. First your skin may feel super tight, super dry. If it has that papery you feel once you dry it with a towel, that's probably a sign you are over cleansing. In which case you can lower the amount of product you use if you want to keep the frequency, or you can cleanse less often, from twice a day to once a day. On the other end, if your skin feels extremely oily and you normally think your skin is not naturally producing a ton of oil, that could be because you're stripping too much of that natural oil called sebum. So the serum production goes in overdrive, it overcompensates, and it gives you that shiny look, which besides look can cause acne and problem skin. So cleansing and your routine and your skincare ritual, these are all living breathing creatures you have to adjust and you have to listen to your skin and pay attention to it. Now why does the double cleanse work? People talk a lot about the double cleanse helps a lot with makeup, and helps a lot with waterproof mascara and things like that. That's because the things on your skin dissolve either in water or in oil. And to clean something, to really clean not to just wash it off the surface with a bunch of water. You need to dissolve it, so it's completely gone. And a double cleanse helps dissolve both the water-based ingredients and the oil-based ingredients, and completely get rid of both. When you use oil, the makeup you see the makeup starts melting. And for those who are not using oil-based cleansers, you put some on dry hands and you apply it on dry skin, and you rub it for a minute, and you see that stuff starting to melt. Then you add water and then you continue to rub to emulsify this oil where you get that milky effect not quite foaming, but you get that same effect because it still has some foaming agents, that's what gets completely rid of that makeup and the SPF and all the other hard stuff to get off your face. Now the foam cleanser afterwards, people use for different reasons. Some people like the squeaky clean feel on their skin. That's how they've trained their mind over time to think of the definition of clean. Some people actually use a cleanser, the second cleanser, with a functional purpose. It may be a cleanser with some acid, which helps get an exfoliating effect. Because what most acids do is they dissolve the bond between the dead skin, the 40,000 that you shed every minute, and helps get rid of them. So should you double cleanse or not? I strongly recommend trying an oil-based cleanser, and if you want to add a second cleanser then certainly pay attention to whether your skin gets over cleansed, and if that's the case you have to moderate it. I hope you enjoy that episode. That's it for today. If you liked it, please share on Instagram and Facebook, and I'll see you next time. 

--Transcript--So what's up with the double cleanse? A lot of people are doing it, a whole lot of people are talking about it, and there's a ton of people who actually have no clue what it is. Double cleanse is when you use an oil cleanser before your foam-based cleanser. So you basically are cleansing twice. The question is, is it good for you and should you do it? That's what we're covering today. Welcome to episode three of the Skincare Secret Show.  So the big question is this, what do people with great skin do differently to have that? How do they achieve a great look without using celebrity beauticians or spending a paycheck to restock their beauty cabinet. What are their mindsets, their approaches, the rituals the products and tools they use? That is the question and this podcast will give you the answers. My name is Damyan Nikolov and welcome to Skincare Secrets.  I’'ll give you some reasons to double cleanse, and cleanse in general. How about 40,000 of them. So your skin sheds 40,000 dead skin cells every minute. Just think about it, every minute, and those have to come off. The best way is through cleansing so you can get rid of them because if you don't, they get mixed up with oil, with makeup, with SPF and whatnot, and you get milia or worse, you get acne.  And if this is not enough, I'll give you another 20,000 thousand reasons, your face has approximately 20,000 pores. And when those pores get filled up with gunk, they stretch out and when they stretch out they look huge. And nobody likes that. I know it's a major category in the beauty space, products that minimize pores, but one of the best ways to actually minimize the look of your pores, is to keep your skin clean so that they shrink back to their normal size.  And what are you actually cleansing when you're double cleansing? Besides obviously the makeup and the SPF and all that stuff, you're actually getting rid of your natural oil called sebum, that the skin produces, and that's something that plays a very important role in the body. On one end, it regulates heat and body temperature, on the other end it prevents bacteria from landing on the skin and causing acne and other kinds of issues. So you have to look at cleansing in moderation and make sure you're not disturbing that balance that the skin has.  Certain signs that you are over cleansing, if you're doing double cleanse twice a day for example for an extended period of time. First your skin may feel super tight, super dry. If it has that papery you feel once you dry it with a towel, that's probably a sign you are over cleansing. In which case you can lower the amount of product you use if you want to keep the frequency, or you can cleanse less often, from twice a day to once a day.  On the other end, if your skin feels extremely oily and you normally think your skin is not naturally producing a ton of oil, that could be because you're stripping too much of that natural oil called sebum. So the serum production goes in overdrive, it overcompensates, and it gives you that shiny look, which besides look can cause acne and problem skin.  So cleansing and your routine and your skincare ritual, these are all living breathing creatures you have to adjust and you have to listen to your skin and pay attention to it. Now why does the double cleanse work? People talk a lot about the double cleanse helps a lot with makeup, and helps a lot with waterproof mascara and things like that. That's because the things on your skin dissolve either in water or in oil. And to clean something, to really clean not to just wash it off the surface with a bunch of water. You need to dissolve it, so it's completely gone. And a double cleanse helps dissolve both the water-based ingredients and the oil-based ingredients, and completely get rid of both.  When you use oil, the makeup you see the makeup starts melting. And for those who are not using oil-based cleansers, you put some on dry hands and you apply it on dry skin, and you rub it for a minute, and you see that stuff starting to melt. Then you add water and then you continue to rub to emulsify this oil where you get that milky effect not quite foaming, but you get that same effect because it still has some foaming agents, that's what gets completely rid of that makeup and the SPF and all the other hard stuff to get off your face. Now the foam cleanser afterwards, people use for different reasons.  Some people like the squeaky clean feel on their skin. That's how they've trained their mind over time to think of the definition of clean. Some people actually use a cleanser, the second cleanser, with a functional purpose. It may be a cleanser with some acid, which helps get an exfoliating effect. Because what most acids do is they dissolve the bond between the dead skin, the 40,000 that you shed every minute, and helps get rid of them. So should you double cleanse or not?  I strongly recommend trying an oil-based cleanser, and if you want to add a second cleanser then certainly pay attention to whether your skin gets over cleansed, and if that's the case you have to moderate it. I hope you enjoy that episode.  That's it for today. If you liked it, please share on Instagram and Facebook, and I'll see you next time.

#3 Doing Double Duty. Debunking the Double-Cleanse! 

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