Over 70% of the country has been classified as abnormally dry, or worse. What about the oasis in your own backyard? Lawn Care Do’s and Don’ts During a Drought  DON’T water your lawn at night. Grass left wet overnight, or for long periods of time, can encourage fungal diseases that cause discoloration. Water in the early morning so your lawn isn’t damp for long periods, when the sun isn’t high enough to evaporate the water before it penetrates the soil. DO raise your mower deck. Cut at the maximum height to enhance stress tolerance. Mowing on the high side encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, absorbing water from the insulated soil. As a rule of thumb, remove only about 1/3 of the grass blade each time you mow. If you cut too much at one time, the long clippings can cause stress on the grass, inhibiting healthy growth. DON’T water a little bit every day. The water will not be able to penetrate deep enough into the soil to maintain moisture and promote greater root depth. This will also encourage weed growth and spread of disease. Instead, water infrequently, but deeply, to encourage a strong root system. Aim to apply about an inch of water to the soil each week – but always be mindful of local watering restrictions if in place. DO let it go dormant. During drought, always follow local water restrictions when applicable. It is ok to let your lawn go dormant, as most turf species can tolerate some periods of time without water from rainfall or irrigation. Most species will recover relatively quickly when water is applied from rain or irrigation. During any period of dormancy caused by drought, monitor the turf to ensure that it shows some sign of green color, though it may be faint. During this period, waterless frequently for longer periods of time, as possible and as allowed by any local watering restrictions. If you have questions about your type of grass or its drought tolerance, the local university extension service or landscaper are great resources. DON’T fertilize your grass. Though it may seem like it needs more nutrients at this time of year, putting fertilizer down on dry soil can actually burn the grass. Improper fertilization can also help promote disease, so always follow proper fertilization practices for your area and the time of year. DO plan for next year. In the fall however, one of the best practices to follow is proper fertilization. If you have a cool season lawn that is breaking dormancy from the summer stress, fall is a great time to prepare it for the potential stresses of next summer. Similarly, early fall is also a good time for a final fertilizer application on warm season grasses for the same reason. Regardless of your turf type, be sure to follow recommended fertilization practices for your specific grass and climate to provide the best possible benefit. If needed, your local garden center can be a good source of advice on how fall fertilization can promote root growth and dense turf coverage to help it withstand any potential stress in the coming year.Thanks to our friends at John Deere for these  lawn care tips during a drought!The post Drought Lawn Care appeared first on The Handyguys.

<p>Over <a href="http://www.cnn.com/2012/07/16/us/us-drought/index.html" rel="noopener nofollow" target="_blank">70% of the country</a> has been classified as abnormally dry, or worse. What about the oasis in your own backyard?</p> <h2><strong>Lawn Care Do’s and Don’ts During a Drought</strong></h2> <p></p> <h3><strong>DON’T w</strong>ater your lawn at night.</h3> <p>Grass left wet overnight, or for long periods of time, can encourage fungal diseases that cause discoloration. Water in the early morning so your lawn isn’t damp for long periods, when the sun isn’t high enough to evaporate the water before it penetrates the soil.</p> <h3><strong>DO r</strong>aise your mower deck.</h3> <p>Cut at the maximum height to enhance stress tolerance. Mowing on the high side encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, absorbing water from the insulated soil. As a rule of thumb, remove only about 1/3 of the grass blade each time you mow. If you cut too much at one time, the long clippings can cause stress on the grass, inhibiting healthy growth.</p> <h3><strong>DON’T w</strong>ater a little bit every day.</h3> <p>The water will not be able to penetrate deep enough into the soil to maintain moisture and promote greater root depth. This will also encourage weed growth and spread of disease. Instead, water infrequently, but deeply, to encourage a strong root system. Aim to apply about an inch of water to the soil each week – but always be mindful of local watering restrictions if in place.</p> <h3><strong>DO l</strong>et it go dormant.</h3> <p>During drought, always follow local water restrictions when applicable. It is ok to let your lawn go dormant, as most turf species can tolerate some periods of time without water from rainfall or irrigation. Most species will recover relatively quickly when water is applied from rain or irrigation. During any period of dormancy caused by drought, monitor the turf to ensure that it shows some sign of green color, though it may be faint. During this period, waterless frequently for longer periods of time, as possible and as allowed by any local watering restrictions. If you have questions about your type of grass or its drought tolerance, the local university extension service or landscaper are great resources.</p> <h3><strong>DON’T f</strong>ertilize your grass.</h3> <p>Though it may seem like it needs more nutrients at this time of year, putting fertilizer down on dry soil can actually burn the grass. Improper fertilization can also help promote disease, so always follow proper fertilization practices for your area and the time of year.</p> <h3><strong>DO p</strong>lan for next year.</h3> <p>In the fall however, one of the best practices to follow is proper fertilization. If you have a cool season lawn that is breaking dormancy from the summer stress, fall is a great time to prepare it for the potential stresses of next summer. Similarly, early fall is also a good time for a final fertilizer application on warm season grasses for the same reason. Regardless of your turf type, be sure to follow recommended fertilization practices for your specific grass and climate to provide the best possible benefit. If needed, your local garden center can be a good source of advice on how fall fertilization can promote root growth and dense turf coverage to help it withstand any potential stress in the coming year.</p>Thanks to our friends at <a href="http://www.deere.com/wps/dcom/en_US/regional_home.page" rel="noopener nofollow" target="_blank">John Deere</a> for these  lawn care tips during a drought!<br><p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2899/drought-lawn-are/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Drought Lawn Care</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Drought Lawn Care

In this audio podcast The Handyguys discuss building an Azek Cellular PVC deck. The Handyguys discuss when to DIY and when not to DIY, design considerations, choosing a contractor and materials selection. To DIY or not to DIY a Cellular PVC Deck Handyguy Paul decided not to DIY this Cellular PVC ceck. Listen to the podcast for why.  Design Considerations Think about how you will use your new deck. Plan for the space. Think about furniture and traffic flow. Materials such as Cellular PVC are a great, low maintenance choice.  Choosing a contractor for a Cellular PVC Deck Handyguy Paul picked a contractor that was highly respected in his area. He was able to inspect several decks built by his contractor up close. When he met with the designer he was able to see pictures of almost exactly what he had in mind. Listen to the podcast for more on the contractor, Decks-R-Us, and what set them apart from other builders.  Materials Selection Handyguy Paul went with an Azek Cellular PVC Deck. The material is low maintenance and was also what his contractor was most familiar with.  The post Building an Azek Cellular PVC Deck appeared first on The Handyguys.

<p>In this audio podcast The Handyguys discuss building an Azek Cellular PVC deck. The Handyguys discuss when to DIY and when not to DIY, design considerations, choosing a contractor and materials selection.</p> <h3>To DIY or not to DIY a Cellular PVC Deck</h3> <p>Handyguy Paul decided not to DIY this Cellular PVC ceck. Listen to the podcast for why.</p> <p></p> <h3>Design Considerations</h3> <p>Think about how you will use your new deck. Plan for the space. Think about furniture and traffic flow. Materials such as Cellular PVC are a great, low maintenance choice.</p> <p></p> <h3>Choosing a contractor for a Cellular PVC Deck</h3> <p>Handyguy Paul picked a contractor that was highly respected in his area. He was able to inspect several decks built by his contractor up close. When he met with the designer he was able to see pictures of almost exactly what he had in mind. Listen to the podcast for more on the contractor, <a href="http://www.Decksrusllc.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Decks-R-Us</a>, and what set them apart from other builders.</p> <p></p> <h3>Materials Selection</h3> <p>Handyguy Paul went with an Azek Cellular PVC Deck. The material is low maintenance and was also what his contractor was most familiar with.</p> <p></p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2884/building-an-azek-cellular-pvc-deck/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Building an Azek Cellular PVC Deck</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Building an Azek Cellular PVC Deck

A primer on when to prime Much of the cost of a paint job actually comes from the labor, that is why it is important to know when to prime. When having a repainting job done, it involves scraping the old paint, priming – spot priming or priming the entire surface – and then painting. So, when a contractor specifies re-priming the entire house for a painting job, that also means having to double your budget. In this audio podcast, Handyguys Paul and Brian respond to a question sent in by one of their listeners via e-mail about the importance of priming, what and how much you prime and when to prime the entire house. Mike writes: I have a question about painting and when to prime. I’m having the exterior of our house painted. The house is already painted (11 years ago) and it doesn’t have any real paint issues, like cracking and peeling (some but not much). I’ve gotten a couple of bids and each contractor has a different approach to painting. One will scrape and spot prime, then paint the house. The other says they will scrape and prime the whole house, then paint. The question is do you need need to prime the whole house, if the existing paint is still in “good” shape? Peeling paint, in this case, was cause by improper preparation and lack of primer. The person painting this wall should have removed any joint compound dust and then applied a primer before painting. When to prime is a great question Mike. The Handyguys share these tips on when to prime when repainting your home: When you are doing a major color change Basically, a primer helps you get the correct color that you want, especially if you are shifting from one “wild” color to another. Handyguy Brian explains that the old color can bleed through to the new paint if not first primed. Changing from one kind of paint to another Handyguy Paul suggests against changing from a latex-based paint to a oil paint as this can ruin the quality of the finished paint job. Doing it the other way around, from oil to latex-based paint, should be okay, but it does require you to prime the surface you’re going to paint. Painting over a glossy paint To help the new paint adhere to the surface well, Handyguy Brian advises to prime when painting over a glossy paint. Although the traditional way is to de-gloss by sanding priming is an easy way to put down a low gloss base before you paint. Bare wood You always prime bare wood, new wood and areas where old paint has been scraped off. If you have additional questions about when to prime or anything else for The Handyguys, simply go to the Contact Us tab of www.handyguyspodcast.com. Additionally, you can view some of our videos in our YouTube channel and subscribe to the show in iTunes. The post When to Prime Before Painting appeared first on The Handyguys.

<h2>A primer on when to prime</h2> <p>Much of the cost of a paint job actually comes from the labor, that is why it is important to know when to prime. When having a repainting job done, it involves scraping the old paint, priming – spot priming or priming the entire surface – and then painting. So, when a contractor specifies re-priming the entire house for a painting job, that also means having to double your budget.</p> <p>In this audio podcast, Handyguys Paul and Brian respond to a question sent in by one of their listeners via e-mail about the importance of priming, what and how much you prime and when to prime the entire house.</p> <p>Mike writes:</p> <blockquote><p>I have a question about painting and when to prime. I’m having the exterior of our house painted. The house is already painted (11 years ago) and it doesn’t have any real paint issues, like cracking and peeling (some but not much). I’ve gotten a couple of bids and each contractor has a different approach to painting. One will scrape and spot prime, then paint the house. The other says they will scrape and prime the whole house, then paint.</p> <p>The question is do you need need to prime the whole house, if the existing paint is still in “good” shape?</p></blockquote> <p>Peeling paint, in this case, was cause by improper preparation and lack of primer. The person painting this wall should have removed any joint compound dust and then applied a primer before painting.</p> <p>When to prime is a great question Mike.</p> <p>The Handyguys share these tips on when to prime when repainting your home:</p> <h3>When you are doing a major color change</h3> <p>Basically, a primer helps you get the correct color that you want, especially if you are shifting from one “wild” color to another. Handyguy Brian explains that the old color can bleed through to the new paint if not first primed.</p> <h3>Changing from one kind of paint to another</h3> <p>Handyguy Paul suggests against changing from a latex-based paint to a oil paint as this can ruin the quality of the finished paint job. Doing it the other way around, from oil to latex-based paint, should be okay, but it does require you to prime the surface you’re going to paint.</p> <h3>Painting over a glossy paint</h3> <p>To help the new paint adhere to the surface well, Handyguy Brian advises to prime when painting over a glossy paint. Although the traditional way is to de-gloss by sanding priming is an easy way to put down a low gloss base before you paint.</p> <h3>Bare wood</h3> <p>You always prime bare wood, new wood and areas where old paint has been scraped off.</p> <p>If you have additional questions about when to prime or anything else for The Handyguys, simply go to the<a href="https://handyguys.wpengine.com/contact-the-handy-guys/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> Contact Us</a> tab of <a href="https://handyguys.wpengine.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.handyguyspodcast.com</a>. Additionally, you can view some of our videos in our <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/handyguyspodcast" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">YouTube channel </a>and subscribe to the show in <a href="http://phobos.apple.com/WebObjects/MZStore.woa/wa/viewPodcast?id=271974034" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">iTunes</a>.</p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2858/when-to-prime-before-painting/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">When to Prime Before Painting</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

When to Prime Before Painting

Handyguys Brian and Paul bring in HVAC (Heating/Ventilation/Air Conditioning) expert and the co-owner of Interstate Air Conditioning and Heating, Raymond Kishk, to talk about energy efficient air conditioning systems. This information will help you choose an energy efficient air conditioning system and keep your current unit running efficiently. Invest in Energy Efficient Air Conditioning with Higher SEER Rating SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) simply indicates how much energy is required to run the unit. Many appliances like air conditioners and refrigerators have SEER ratings. The higher the SEER rating the more efficiently your appliance runs. According to Raymond, the lowest SEER rating is about 8; but some states require a SEER rating of at least 12 or 13. He adds that although two different brands may have the same SEER rating, you may want to compare the features that each has to offer. An air conditioner with a timer, for example, also contributes in saving energy. Consider an Energy Efficient Air Conditioning unit with VRV system Air condition units with VRV (Variable Refrigerant Volume) system are especially advantageous if you’re looking to provide air conditioning to several rooms in one house or building. Raymond explains that this system has one condensing unit and allows you to set up 10 to 15 blowers for different rooms, which lets you adjust the temperature individually. Plus, if one blower breaks down, the air conditioning in the other rooms will not be affected. Maintain, maintain, maintain for “Energy Efficient Air Conditioning” No matter how high the SEER rating of your air conditioning unit, failing to perform proper maintenance will still add expenses. Raymond mentions that a dirty filter adds at least five dollars a month to your bills. A dirty coil makes your air condition work 30% harder. The good news about the new energy efficient air conditions we have today is that maintenance is not any more difficult than old units despite the new technology that it has. With proper maintenance, you can keep your costs at a minimum. Hopefully Raymond  has shown you that it is cost-effective to purchase an air conditioner with a high SEER rating. The post Energy Efficient Air Conditioning appeared first on The Handyguys.

<p>Handyguys Brian and Paul bring in HVAC (Heating/Ventilation/Air Conditioning) expert and the co-owner of Interstate Air Conditioning and Heating, Raymond Kishk, to talk about energy efficient air conditioning systems.</p> <p>This information will help you choose an energy efficient air conditioning system and keep your current unit running efficiently.</p> <h2>Invest in Energy Efficient Air Conditioning with Higher SEER Rating</h2> <p>SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) simply indicates how much energy is required to run the unit. Many appliances like air conditioners and refrigerators have SEER ratings. The higher the SEER rating the more efficiently your appliance runs. According to Raymond, the lowest SEER rating is about 8; but some states require a SEER rating of at least 12 or 13.</p> <p>He adds that although two different brands may have the same SEER rating, you may want to compare the features that each has to offer. An air conditioner with a timer, for example, also contributes in saving energy.</p> <h2>Consider an Energy Efficient Air Conditioning unit with VRV system</h2> <p>Air condition units with VRV (Variable Refrigerant Volume) system are especially advantageous if you’re looking to provide air conditioning to several rooms in one house or building.</p> <p>Raymond explains that this system has one condensing unit and allows you to set up 10 to 15 blowers for different rooms, which lets you adjust the temperature individually. Plus, if one blower breaks down, the air conditioning in the other rooms will not be affected.</p> <h2>Maintain, maintain, maintain for “Energy Efficient Air Conditioning”</h2> <p>No matter how high the SEER rating of your air conditioning unit, failing to perform proper maintenance will still add expenses. Raymond mentions that a dirty filter adds at least five dollars a month to your bills. A dirty coil makes your air condition work 30% harder.</p> <p>The good news about the new energy efficient air conditions we have today is that maintenance is not any more difficult than old units despite the new technology that it has. With proper maintenance, you can keep your costs at a minimum.</p> <p>Hopefully Raymond  has shown you that it is cost-effective to purchase an air conditioner with a high SEER rating.</p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2843/energy-efficient-air-conditioning/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Energy Efficient Air Conditioning</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Energy Efficient Air Conditioning

The Handyguys discuss chainsaw safety in this audio podcast.  If you rent, borrow or buy a chainsaw, you will still need to be aware of proper chainsaw safety. In the summer, many areas are affected by thunderstorms. In the late summer and fall, some contend with hurricanes, others tornadoes and may need to put a chainsaw to use for cleanup of debris. Other people may be cutting and splitting wood for heat, some people are clearing their property. Regardless of how and when you use a chainsaw, safety must always come first. We can’t cover every aspect of chainsaw safety in this show. Please read, understand and follow all the safety precautions outlined by the manufacturer of your chainsaw. Use common sense. Do not push yourself or your chainsaw beyond what you can handle. WARNING! A chain saw is a dangerous tool If used carelessly or incorrectly and can cause serious, even fatal injuries. It is very important that you read and understand the contents of your operator’s manual.  Here are the basics of chainsaw safety: Common sense  It is not possible to cover every conceivable chainsaw safety situation you can face when using a chain saw. Always exercise care and use your common sense. Avoid all situations which you consider to be beyond your capability.  Personal protective equipment for chainsaw safety  Approved protective helmet Hearing protection Protective goggles or a visor Gloves with saw protection Trousers with saw protection Boots with saw protection, steel toe-cap and non-slip sole Always have a first aid kit nearby   Machine’s chainsaw safety equipment Your saw will have several chainsaw safety devices built into the design. These will vary by manufacturer. Ensure they are properly attached and operational.  Anti-kickback features, bar tip, safety chain Throttle lockout Chain catcher Hand guards   Fuel handling  Do not smoke and do not place any hot objects in the vicinity of fuel. Never refuel the machine while the engine is running Always stop the engine and let it cool for a few minutes before refueling. When refueling, open the fuel cap slowly so that any excess pressure is released gently. Tighten the fuel cap carefully after refueling. Always move the machine away from the refueling area before starting.  Starting and stopping a chainsaw safely  Never start a chain saw unless the bar, chain and all covers are ﬁtted correctly. The chain brake should be activated when starting. Never start the machine indoors. Observe your surroundings and make sure that there is no risk of people or animals coming into contact with the cutting equipment.. Always hold the saw with both hands. Start the saw on the ground. Grip the front handle with your left hand. Hold the chain saw on the ground by placing your right foot through the rear handle. Pull the starter handle.   Chainsaw safety working techniques  Look around you, and above you. Ensure nothing in the area will affect your control of the saw. Do not use the saw in bad weather. Make sure you can move and stand safely. Take great care when cutting a tree that is under tension. Understand the causes of kickback so you can avoid it. Two hands, always. Never use the saw above your shoulders. Always cut with a sharp blade, properly fitted for your particular saw.  The chainsaw safety information in this post and in the podcast is never a substitute for professional skills and experience. If you get into a situation where you feel unsafe, stop and seek expert advice. Here are some helpful links to manuals containing chainsaw safety information. Most manufacturers will have their manuals online. If you do not have a manual you should find one. Husqvarna http://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/support/download-manuals/ http://www.husqvarna.com/us/support/how-to-videos/chain-saw-videos-how-to-use/ Stihl http://www.stihlusa.com/manuals/product-instruction-manuals/ Craftsman http://www.searspartsdirect.com/ (good luck, I had trouble finding manuals online) Echo http://www.echo-usa.com/Support-Help/Technical-Documents?sm=true The post Chainsaw Safety appeared first on The Handyguys.

<p>The Handyguys discuss chainsaw safety in this audio podcast.</p> <p></p> <p>If you rent, borrow or buy a chainsaw, you will still need to be aware of proper chainsaw safety. In the summer, many areas are affected by thunderstorms. In the late summer and fall, some contend with hurricanes, others tornadoes and may need to put a chainsaw to use for cleanup of debris. Other people may be cutting and splitting wood for heat, some people are clearing their property. Regardless of how and when you use a chainsaw, safety must always come first.</p> <p>We can’t cover every aspect of chainsaw safety in this show. Please read, understand and follow all the safety precautions outlined by the manufacturer of your chainsaw. Use common sense. Do not push yourself or your chainsaw beyond what you can handle.</p> WARNING! A chain saw is a dangerous tool If used carelessly or incorrectly and can cause serious, even fatal injuries. It is very important that you read and understand the contents of your operator’s manual. <p></p> <h2>Here are the basics of chainsaw safety:</h2> <h3>Common sense</h3> <ul> <li>It is not possible to cover every conceivable chainsaw safety situation you can face when using a chain saw.</li> <li>Always exercise care and use your common sense.</li> <li>Avoid all situations which you consider to be beyond your capability.</li> </ul> <h3>Personal protective equipment for chainsaw safety</h3> <ul> <li>Approved protective helmet</li> <li>Hearing protection</li> <li>Protective goggles or a visor</li> <li>Gloves with saw protection</li> <li>Trousers with saw protection</li> <li>Boots with saw protection, steel toe-cap and non-slip sole</li> <li>Always have a first aid kit nearby</li> </ul> <p></p> <h3>Machine’s chainsaw safety equipment</h3> <p>Your saw will have several chainsaw safety devices built into the design. These will vary by manufacturer. Ensure they are properly attached and operational.</p> <ul> <li>Anti-kickback features, bar tip, safety chain</li> <li>Throttle lockout</li> <li>Chain catcher</li> <li>Hand guards</li> </ul> <h3> Fuel handling</h3> <ul> <li>Do not smoke and do not place any hot objects in the vicinity of fuel.</li> <li>Never refuel the machine while the engine is running</li> <li>Always stop the engine and let it cool for a few minutes before refueling.</li> <li>When refueling, open the fuel cap slowly so that any excess pressure is released gently.</li> <li>Tighten the fuel cap carefully after refueling.</li> <li>Always move the machine away from the refueling area before starting.</li> </ul> <h3>Starting and stopping a chainsaw safely</h3> <ul> <li>Never start a chain saw unless the bar, chain and all covers are ﬁtted correctly.</li> <li>The chain brake should be activated when starting.</li> <li>Never start the machine indoors.</li> <li>Observe your surroundings and make sure that there is no risk of people or animals coming into contact with the cutting equipment..</li> <li>Always hold the saw with both hands.</li> <li>Start the saw on the ground. Grip the front handle with your left hand. Hold the chain saw on the ground by placing your right foot through the rear handle. Pull the starter handle.</li> </ul> <p></p> <h3>Chainsaw safety working techniques</h3> <ul> <li>Look around you, and above you. Ensure nothing in the area will affect your control of the saw.</li> <li>Do not use the saw in bad weather.</li> <li>Make sure you can move and stand safely.</li> <li>Take great care when cutting a tree that is under tension.</li> <li>Understand the causes of kickback so you can avoid it.</li> <li>Two hands, always.</li> <li>Never use the saw above your shoulders.</li> <li>Always cut with a sharp blade, properly fitted for your particular saw.</li> </ul> The chainsaw safety information in this post and in the podcast is never a substitute for professional skills and experience. If you get into a situation where you feel unsafe, stop and seek expert advice. <h2>Here are some helpful links to manuals containing chainsaw safety information.</h2> <p>Most manufacturers will have their manuals online. If you do not have a manual you should find one.</p> <h3>Husqvarna</h3> <p><a href="http://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/support/download-manuals/" rel="noopener nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/support/download-manuals/</a><br/> <a href="http://www.husqvarna.com/us/support/how-to-videos/chain-saw-videos-how-to-use/" rel="noopener nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.husqvarna.com/us/support/how-to-videos/chain-saw-videos-how-to-use/</a></p> <h3>Stihl</h3> <p><a href="http://www.stihlusa.com/manuals/product-instruction-manuals/" rel="noopener nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.stihlusa.com/manuals/product-instruction-manuals/</a></p> <h3>Craftsman</h3> <p><a href="http://www.searspartsdirect.com/" rel="noopener nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.searspartsdirect.com/</a> (good luck, I had trouble finding manuals online)</p> <h3>Echo</h3> <p><a href="http://www.echo-usa.com/Support-Help/Technical-Documents?sm=true" rel="noopener nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.echo-usa.com/Support-Help/Technical-Documents?sm=true</a></p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2815/chainsaw-safety/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Chainsaw Safety</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Chainsaw Safety

While planting and growing grass is not difficult–I once heard that it could be planted on concrete–there are strategies for successfully planting grass seed to ensure the most success. Listen to this audio podcast to hear the discussion about all these topics.  When planting grass, you have several decisions to make: When is the best time for planting grass seed? Fall – The best time for planting grass seed is fall. Early enough so it becomes established before the first frost bot not too early that the heat will hinder growth. What variety to seed to plant? Plant what grows best for your part of the country and the site conditions. Your local seed supplier will carry what you need. Companies like Pennington Seed ship different varieties to different parts of the country. What brand of seed to plant? Yes, brand does matter. You want a quality seed that will have a deep root system and look nice. Do grass mixtures matter when planting grass seed? Yes, a blend of varieties will offer multiple benefits. Some grasses take a long time to germinate, others germinate quickly. Some spread and some are bunch grasses. Using a blend when planting grass seed gives you benefits of multiple varieties. How much fertilizer do you need? As little as possible. Deep roots from quality seed will lower the need for fertilizers. How often to water when planting grass seed? As needed, follow the instructions for the variety you plant and keep well watered until the grass seed is established.  Handyguy Brian discussed some of the things he learned about Pennington Grass. He visited Pennington’s R&amp;D facility in Oregon earlier this year and has some interesting insight into seed varieties. Pennington® Smart Seed Hands-On Experiment At Pennington’s “Seed for Yourself” Summit, Handyguy Brian was given the opportunity to try planting grass seed in a small plot using Pennington® Smart Seed to learn about the benefits of using a high-quality, pure seed product. Seed products are most appropriate for use when planting grass seed for a new lawn or re-seeding large areas. Every bag of Pennington® Smart Seed contains pure seed and no filler. The seed varieties used in Pennington® Smart Seed are some of the most advanced varieties available and have been developed for their drought tolerance. At least 60 percent of the seed in every bag of Pennington® Smart Seed has been qualified by the Turfgrass Water Conservation Alliance (TWCA) for its drought tolerance. Pennington Seed is one of the three founding members of the TWCA, which works with state university systems and private research enterprises to develop turfgrasses that use less water. In addition to using only the most advanced varieties, each seed is further enhanced with Pennington’s exclusive MYCO Advantage seed technology, which helps to introduce beneficial micro-organisms that attach themselves to the emerging seed roots for a denser, deeper root system. After minimal soil tilling, Brian evenly spread fertilizer and Pennington® Smart Seed across his plots. Over the next several weeks, each plot received regular watering as appropriate.* DAY 1 *Watering requirements can vary dramatically between germination, establishment and ongoing maintenance. During germination, homeowners should water to keep the soil moist. Following the first two weeks, homeowners should then water their lawn every third day for 15-20 minutes until established. As part of ongoing maintenance, watering should occur every fourth day for 20-30 minutes. At this stage, the main goal is to maintain a healthy lawn. This can be primarily accomplished by monitoring for color changes. A lawn does not need water until the color falls by 50 percent, at which time one inch of water should be added. To determine the length of irrigation, place plastic cups or small tins to observe waterfall in a given area. DAY 14 AND DAY 28  During the first days of planting grass seed , the seed absorbs water but has not swelled to the point of bursting open. Depending on the variety of grass, germination is not typically visible until at least 8 days, with some varieties taking well over 14 days. At 14 days, germination is visible with a number of seeds having sprouted. Germination progresses over the next few weeks. DAY 35 AND DAY 49  Through day 35-49, the grass continues to thicken across the seeded area. While full establishment for Pennington® Smart Seed takes longer than Pennington® 1-Step Complete, the grass grows beautiful and thick. Pennington offers specialized variety blends or mixes of Pennington® Smart Seed. Pennington® Smart Seed comes in both traditional variety blends/mixes (Perennial Ryegrass, Kentucky Bluegrass, Tall Fescue and Fescue/Bluegrass), as well as specialized mixes that are customized to specific regional climates – taking the guesswork out of selection. Varieties include: Sun &amp; Shade, Dense Shade, Northeast, Midwest, Pacific Northwest and Pennsylvania State. The post Planting Grass Seed, Strategies for Success appeared first on The Handyguys.

<p>While planting and growing grass is not difficult–I once heard that it could be planted on concrete–there are strategies for successfully planting grass seed to ensure the most success. Listen to this audio podcast to hear the discussion about all these topics.</p> <p></p> <h2>When planting grass, you have several decisions to make:</h2> <h3>When is the best time for planting grass seed?</h3> <p>Fall – The best time for planting grass seed is fall. Early enough so it becomes established before the first frost bot not too early that the heat will hinder growth.</p> <h3>What variety to seed to plant?</h3> <p>Plant what grows best for your part of the country and the site conditions. Your local seed supplier will carry what you need. Companies like Pennington Seed ship different varieties to different parts of the country.</p> <h3>What brand of seed to plant?</h3> <p>Yes, brand does matter. You want a quality seed that will have a deep root system and look nice.</p> <h3>Do grass mixtures matter when planting grass seed?</h3> <p>Yes, a blend of varieties will offer multiple benefits. Some grasses take a long time to germinate, others germinate quickly. Some spread and some are bunch grasses. Using a blend when planting grass seed gives you benefits of multiple varieties.</p> <h3>How much fertilizer do you need?</h3> <p>As little as possible. Deep roots from quality seed will lower the need for fertilizers.</p> <h3>How often to water when planting grass seed?</h3> <p>As needed, follow the instructions for the variety you plant and keep well watered until the grass seed is established.</p> <p></p> <p>Handyguy Brian discussed some of the things he learned about Pennington Grass. He visited Pennington’s R&amp;D facility in Oregon earlier this year and has some interesting insight into seed varieties.</p> <h2>Pennington® Smart Seed Hands-On Experiment</h2> <p>At Pennington’s “Seed for Yourself” Summit, Handyguy Brian was given the opportunity to try planting grass seed in a small plot using Pennington® Smart Seed to learn about the benefits of using a high-quality, pure seed product. Seed products are most appropriate for use when planting grass seed for a new lawn or re-seeding large areas.</p> <p>Every bag of <a href="http://www.penningtonseed.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Pennington</a>® Smart Seed contains pure seed and no filler. The seed varieties used in Pennington® Smart Seed are some of the most advanced varieties available and have been developed for their drought tolerance. At least 60 percent of the seed in every bag of Pennington® Smart Seed has been qualified by the Turfgrass Water Conservation Alliance (TWCA) for its drought tolerance. Pennington Seed is one of the three founding members of the TWCA, which works with state university systems and private research enterprises to develop turfgrasses that use less water.</p> <p>In addition to using only the most advanced varieties, each seed is further enhanced with Pennington’s exclusive MYCO Advantage seed technology, which helps to introduce beneficial micro-organisms that attach themselves to the emerging seed roots for a denser, deeper root system.</p> <p>After minimal soil tilling, Brian evenly spread fertilizer and Pennington® Smart Seed across his plots. Over the next several weeks, each plot received regular watering as appropriate.*</p> <h3>DAY 1</h3> <p></p>*Watering requirements can vary dramatically between germination, establishment and ongoing maintenance. During germination, homeowners should water to keep the soil moist. Following the first two weeks, homeowners should then water their lawn every third day for 15-20 minutes until established. As part of ongoing maintenance, watering should occur every fourth day for 20-30 minutes. At this stage, the main goal is to maintain a healthy lawn. This can be primarily accomplished by monitoring for color changes. A lawn does not need water until the color falls by 50 percent, at which time one inch of water should be added. To determine the length of irrigation, place plastic cups or small tins to observe waterfall in a given area.<br><h3> DAY 14 AND DAY 28</h3> <p></p> <p>During the first days of planting grass seed , the seed absorbs water but has not swelled to the point of bursting open. Depending on the variety of grass, germination is not typically visible until at least 8 days, with some varieties taking well over 14 days.</p> <p>At 14 days, germination is visible with a number of seeds having sprouted. Germination progresses over the next few weeks.</p> <h3>DAY 35 AND DAY 49</h3> <p></p> <p>Through day 35-49, the grass continues to thicken across the seeded area. While full establishment for Pennington® Smart Seed takes longer than Pennington® 1-Step Complete, the grass grows beautiful and thick.</p> <p>Pennington offers specialized variety blends or mixes of Pennington® Smart Seed. Pennington® Smart Seed comes in both traditional variety blends/mixes (Perennial Ryegrass, Kentucky Bluegrass, Tall Fescue and Fescue/Bluegrass), as well as specialized mixes that are customized to specific regional climates – taking the guesswork out of selection. Varieties include: Sun &amp; Shade, Dense Shade, Northeast, Midwest, Pacific Northwest and Pennsylvania State.</p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2783/planting-grass-seed/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Planting Grass Seed, Strategies for Success</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Planting Grass Seed, Strategies for Success

On this episode, Handyguy Paul brings two topics to the podcast pertaining to preventing wood rot and to wood and ground contact. Preventing Wood Rot on Door Jambs Paul asks Handyguy Brian about the best way to deal with rotting door jambs and in particular the garage door jambs.  Brian discusses this problem in general as it relates to any exterior door. Exterior jams should be primed and painted on their end grain before installing to help prevent the absorption of moisture. The wood end grain acts as straws, soaking up moisture  over time. Once rot sets in, the best repair is normally a replacement of the entire jam. Paul talks about the complications of having the garage door track structurally attached to the jam. This door jamb is in the beginning stages of wood rot. The paint is peeling but the wood is still stable. To repair this and prevent damage to the jamb, scrape all loose paint, sand smooth, caulk, prime and paint. Preventing Wood Rot on Deck PostsIn the second half of this episode, the Handyguys discuss the pros and cons of having deck support posts in the ground verses on top of concrete piers. Decks builders often insert deck posts into the ground which can add stability but may lead to excessive rot over time. Listen to the podcast for more details.This deck post is on a concrete footer using a post base to prevent the post from touching the concrete. The pressure treated post is rated for ground contact and the cut end was treated with preservative during installation. This post was set in the ground, it is unknown if the cut end was treated, it is unknown if the pressure treatment is rated for ground contact. This pressure treated post is showing signs of deterioration after 6 years. Thanks for checking us out. If you enjoyed this audio podcast, don’t forget to subscribe. You can listen to these shows on your smartphone, iPod, iPhone or other media player. The post Preventing wood rot on door jambs and deck posts appeared first on The Handyguys.

<p>On this episode, Handyguy Paul brings two topics to the podcast pertaining to preventing wood rot and to wood and ground contact.</p> <h2>Preventing Wood Rot on Door Jambs</h2> <p>Paul asks Handyguy Brian about the best way to deal with rotting door jambs and in particular the garage door jambs.  Brian discusses this problem in general as it relates to any exterior door. Exterior jams should be primed and painted on their end grain before installing to help prevent the absorption of moisture. The wood end grain acts as straws, soaking up moisture  over time. Once rot sets in, the best repair is normally a replacement of the entire jam. Paul talks about the complications of having the garage door track structurally attached to the jam.</p> <p>This door jamb is in the beginning stages of wood rot. The paint is peeling but the wood is still stable. To repair this and prevent damage to the jamb, scrape all loose paint, sand smooth, caulk, prime and paint.</p> <h2>Preventing Wood Rot on Deck Posts</h2>In the second half of this episode, the Handyguys discuss the pros and cons of having deck support posts in the ground verses on top of concrete piers. Decks builders often insert deck posts into the ground which can add stability but may lead to excessive rot over time. Listen to the podcast for more details.<br><br><p>This deck post is on a concrete footer using a post base to prevent the post from touching the concrete. The pressure treated post is rated for ground contact and the cut end was treated with preservative during installation.</p> <p>This post was set in the ground, it is unknown if the cut end was treated, it is unknown if the pressure treatment is rated for ground contact. This pressure treated post is showing signs of deterioration after 6 years.</p> <p>Thanks for checking us out. If you enjoyed this audio podcast, don’t forget to subscribe. You can listen to these shows on your smartphone, iPod, iPhone or other media player.</p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2763/preventing-wood-rot/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Preventing wood rot on door jambs and deck posts</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Preventing wood rot on door jambs and deck posts

The Handyguys, Paul and Brian, discuss your mailbox post options in this podcast. Before you dig a hole in your lawn, or get a chinook helicopter to remove your old post (as Handyguy Paul playfully suggests), it’s best to know what choices you have when it comes to choosing a mailbox post.  Basically, you want to match your mailbox post to the style of house that you have. In some cases, a neighborhood has the same type of posts and you want to blend in by building one that looks the same as your neighbors’. But if you don’t have any limits to the kind of post you’re building, here are some of your choices: Wood mailbox posts You can choose from a variety of woods when creating a mailbox. The most common are cedar and redwood. You can also opt for pressure treated lumber. Take note that one disadvantage of wood is it rots easily. This means you may have to replace your mailbox post often. Cast Iron mailbox posts From your mailbox post options, cast iron posts are probably the most durable. The only problem is it can easily develop rust, which will then cause damage to your post. Make sure you keep it painted if you’re choosing an iron cast mailbox post. Powder coated posts are also available in the market, which lengthens the life of your cast iron post. Plastic mailbox posts One advantage of using plastic is it doesn’t rust or rot. Plus, today’s plastic posts come in different molds. Some are made to look like stones, which can be perfect for the style of house that you have. Spindigger mailbox posts Spindigger is a new product that your Handyguys have recently tried out and is a good addition to your mailbox post options. Spindigger’s mailbox posts are made of rust proof cast aluminum and require no digging. Handyguy Brian says that it basically has an auger-type device, which screws your post to the ground. To find out more about Spindigger’s mailbox posts, go to www.spindigger.com You can also check out this brief video The Handyguys made installing a SpinDigger. Listen to the podcast for the full discussion.  The post Mailbox Post Choices appeared first on The Handyguys.

<p>The Handyguys, Paul and Brian, discuss your mailbox post options in this podcast. Before you dig a hole in your lawn, or get a chinook helicopter to remove your old post (as Handyguy Paul playfully suggests), it’s best to know what choices you have when it comes to choosing a <a href="http://www.amazon.com/mn/search/?_encoding=UTF8&amp;tag=handyguys-20&amp;linkCode=ur2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;rh=n%3A2445456011&amp;page=1" rel="noopener nofollow" target="_blank">mailbox post</a>.</p> <p></p> <p>Basically, you want to match your mailbox post to the style of house that you have. In some cases, a neighborhood has the same type of posts and you want to blend in by building one that looks the same as your neighbors’. But if you don’t have any limits to the kind of post you’re building, here are some of your choices:</p> <h3>Wood mailbox posts</h3> <p>You can choose from a variety of woods when creating a mailbox. The most common are cedar and redwood. You can also opt for pressure treated lumber. Take note that one disadvantage of wood is it rots easily. This means you may have to replace your mailbox post often.</p> <h3>Cast Iron mailbox posts</h3> <p>From your mailbox post options, cast iron posts are probably the most durable. The only problem is it can easily develop rust, which will then cause damage to your post. Make sure you keep it painted if you’re choosing an iron cast mailbox post. Powder coated posts are also available in the market, which lengthens the life of your cast iron post.</p> <h3>Plastic mailbox posts</h3> <p>One advantage of using plastic is it doesn’t rust or rot. Plus, today’s plastic posts come in different molds. Some are made to look like stones, which can be perfect for the style of house that you have.</p> <h3>Spindigger mailbox posts</h3> <p>Spindigger is a new product that your Handyguys have recently tried out and is a good addition to your mailbox post options. Spindigger’s mailbox posts are made of rust proof cast aluminum and require no digging. Handyguy Brian says that it basically has an auger-type device, which screws your post to the ground. To find out more about Spindigger’s mailbox posts, go to <a href="http://www.spindigger.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.spindigger.com</a> You can also check out this brief video The Handyguys made installing a SpinDigger. Listen to the podcast for the full discussion.</p> <p></p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2673/mailbox-post-choices/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Mailbox Post Choices</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Mailbox Post Choices

The Handyguys interview Mike Ballou,  product Manager for John Deere, and discuss mower maintenance and the best way to care for your lawn. Mower Maintenance Proper mower maintenance is critical for having a healthy, green  lawn.  Do not begin this new mowing season without changing the oil, sharpening your blades, lubing the joints and checking filters and spark plugs.  Your mower manual will provide all the details you need for proper mower maintenance.  Mike provides detailed instructions on:  Mowing height Blade sharpening and extra blades Removing a deck from your lawn tractor Mulching vs bagging Mulching blades vs bagging blades vs all-purpose blades Adjusting the mower deck wheels on your riding mower deck for best cut (this is very interesting)  There is some good material here that the Handyguys have not covered previously. Check out the full podcast and start your lawn off on the right track this mowing season. Mowing height Mike’s suggestion to mow your grass is a good one. Set the height to one of the highest settings. This will help prevent disease, crowd out weeds, reduce watering and your lawn will look fuller all season long. Blade sharpening and extra blades We have been longtime advocates of using sharp blades. Mike provides another great tip. Buy an extra set of blades. If you have your blades professionally sharpened, you can just swap on your sharp blades while you wait for your dealer to sharpen the dull ones. Mulching vs bagging Mulching is always preferable to bagging. The clippings add water and nutrients back into your lawn. The only time you shouldn’t mulch is if you have waited too long between mows and have extra tall grass. When to mow You should only remove about 1/3 of your blade height at one time. This will allow the mulching to work properly and will not stress your grass too much. Blade Sharpening Video You may also want to check out the video we did a while back on how to sharpen and balance your mower blade.  The post Mower Maintenance and Tips for a Better Lawn appeared first on The Handyguys.

<p>The Handyguys interview Mike Ballou,  product Manager for <a href="http://www.deere.com/" rel="noopener nofollow" target="_blank">John Deere</a>, and discuss mower maintenance and the best way to care for your lawn.</p> <h2>Mower Maintenance</h2> <p>Proper mower maintenance is critical for having a healthy, green  lawn.  Do not begin this new mowing season without changing the oil, sharpening your blades, lubing the joints and checking filters and spark plugs.  Your mower manual will provide all the details you need for proper mower maintenance.</p> <p></p> <p>Mike provides detailed instructions on:</p> <ul> <li>Mowing height</li> <li>Blade sharpening and extra blades</li> <li>Removing a deck from your lawn tractor</li> <li>Mulching vs bagging</li> <li>Mulching blades vs bagging blades vs all-purpose blades</li> <li>Adjusting the mower deck wheels on your riding mower deck for best cut (this is very interesting)</li> </ul> <p>There is some good material here that the Handyguys have not covered previously. Check out the full podcast and start your lawn off on the right track this mowing season.</p> <h3>Mowing height</h3> <p>Mike’s suggestion to mow your grass is a good one. Set the height to one of the highest settings. This will help prevent disease, crowd out weeds, reduce watering and your lawn will look fuller all season long.</p> <h3>Blade sharpening and extra blades</h3> <p>We have been longtime advocates of using sharp blades. Mike provides another great tip. Buy an extra set of blades. If you have your blades professionally sharpened, you can just swap on your sharp blades while you wait for your dealer to sharpen the dull ones.</p> <h3>Mulching vs bagging</h3> <p>Mulching is always preferable to bagging. The clippings add water and nutrients back into your lawn. The only time you shouldn’t mulch is if you have waited too long between mows and have extra tall grass.</p> <h3>When to mow</h3> <p>You should only remove about 1/3 of your blade height at one time. This will allow the mulching to work properly and will not stress your grass too much.</p> <h2>Blade Sharpening Video</h2> <p>You may also want to check out the video we did a while back on how to<a href="https://handyguys.wpengine.com/1289/how-to-sharpen-a-mower-blade-video/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> sharpen and balance your mower blade</a>.<br/> </p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2643/mower-maintenance-and-tips-for-a-better-lawn/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Mower Maintenance and Tips for a Better Lawn</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Mower Maintenance and Tips for a Better Lawn

The Handyguys continued a discussion from an earlier episode on generators. Paul wanted to follow-up with the methods for connecting a generator to your electrical system. Generator transfer switches and manual generator interlock devices are discussed on the show. Generator Transfer Switches Manual transfer switches Manual generator transfer switches are best suited for use with portable generators. Essentially you just throw the switch, plug in your generator and start it up. Automatic transfer switches An automatic generator transfer switch is usually used for standby generators that switch on automatically. They are also the most expensive type of transfer switch and the most complicated to install. They are usually installed by the electrician who installs the standby generator. Interlock devices  A manual interlock is the cheapest method of switching over from the utility grid to your generator power. This interlock from http://www.interlockkit.com is available in many states and they have versions that fit the most common electrical panels. There is discussion of the pros and cons of using the cheaper interlock method instead of the more typical generator transfer switches. Listen to the podcast for details. Brian’s paint color dilemma The Handyguys wrap up by changing the subject to discussing picking paint colors. Brian asks listeners to send @handyguys a tweet with a color for his master bedroom. The first color suggested on Twitter may be used when Brian paints his bedroom. Yikes!  The post Generator Transfer Switches Interlock Devices appeared first on The Handyguys.

<p>The Handyguys continued a discussion from an <a href="https://handyguys.wpengine.com/2474/selecting-a-portable-generator/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">earlier episode on generators</a>. Paul wanted to follow-up with the methods for connecting a generator to your electrical system. Generator transfer switches and manual generator interlock devices are discussed on the show.</p> <h3>Generator Transfer Switches</h3> <h4>Manual transfer switches</h4> <p>Manual generator transfer switches are best suited for use with portable generators. Essentially you just throw the switch, plug in your generator and start it up.</p> <h4>Automatic transfer switches</h4> <p>An automatic generator transfer switch is usually used for standby generators that switch on automatically. They are also the most expensive type of transfer switch and the most complicated to install. They are usually installed by the electrician who installs the standby generator.</p> <h4>Interlock devices</h4> <p></p> <p>A manual interlock is the cheapest method of switching over from the utility grid to your generator power. This interlock from <a href="http://www.interlockkit.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.interlockkit.com</a> is available in many states and they have versions that fit the most common electrical panels.</p> <p>There is discussion of the pros and cons of using the cheaper interlock method instead of the more typical generator transfer switches. Listen to the podcast for details.</p> <h3>Brian’s paint color dilemma</h3> <p>The Handyguys wrap up by changing the subject to discussing picking paint colors. Brian asks listeners to send <a href="https://twitter.com/handyguys" rel="noopener nofollow" target="_blank">@handyguys</a> a tweet with a color for his master bedroom. The first color suggested on Twitter may be used when Brian paints his bedroom. Yikes!</p> <p></p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2616/generator-transfer-switches-interlock-devices/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Generator Transfer Switches Interlock Devices</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Generator Transfer Switches Interlock Devices

The Handyguys are two avid DIYers sharing their experiences working around the house. Our weekly video and audio podcasts feature answers to your questions, head-to-head tool tests and other DIY and home improvement topics. If you have a question regarding your home, let us know using the contact tab on our site or call us at (818) 804-8665. We respond to all questions and may use your question on-the-air in a future broadcast. We look forward to answering your questions and helping you around the home!

great show , very informative , could be better sound quaility , but who cares right ?

the perfect DIY home improvement podcast

I wish I would&#39;ve found this podcast earlier. Great practical information for a homeowner.

Great podcast

The Handyguys Podcast

Portable Generator Selection Checklist  The Handyguys do not own generators but with all the power outages in the news, they are certainly thinking about adding this “power tool” to their arsenal. Portable generators are easy to pick up at your local True Value store and you can be up and running quickly with some limitations. Without modifications to your electrical system, you can only connect household items that reach with an extension cord and which are not hard wired (e.g. a furnace blower). If you want the system to integrate with your electrical system for powering items such as the blower on your furnace, you will need to have an electrician install a bypass switch. Here are issues to consider before buying that generator:  Power. How many watts do you need for your required power equipment in the house. Put a buffer in those calculations to help out a neighbor with their refrigerator! Fuel. Determine how much gasoline you will keep on hand to power the generator. Fuel requires stabilizer or must be replaced on a regular schedule. Most residential codes allow only a small amount of gasoline storage in your garage (generally less then 15 gallons). Noise. Consider how much noise the generator will make. If this is important to you, look for reviews of models that are quieter. Maintenance. The engine will require maintenance and regular running to keep it in good shape. Check out the Run-time. Look at the length of run-time of the generator. Weight. Will you be moving the generator a lot? Does it have wheels? Can you lift it into a truck or trunk? Plan ahead. Research and purchase before a disaster strikes!   Have a great new year! We were one of the bloggers selected by True Value to work on the DIY Squad. We have been compensated for our time commitment to the program as well as our writing about our experience. We have also been compensated for the materials needed for our DIY project. However, our opinions are entirely our own and we have not been paid to publish positive comments. The post Selecting a Portable Generator appeared first on The Handyguys.

<h3>Portable Generator Selection Checklist</h3> <p></p> <p>The Handyguys do not own generators but with all the power outages in the news, they are certainly thinking about adding this “power tool” to their arsenal. Portable generators are easy to pick up at your local <a href="http://www.startrightstarthere.com/" rel="noopener nofollow" target="_blank">True Value</a> store and you can be up and running quickly with some limitations. Without modifications to your electrical system, you can only connect household items that reach with an extension cord and which are not hard wired (e.g. a furnace blower). If you want the system to integrate with your electrical system for powering items such as the blower on your furnace, you will need to have an electrician install a bypass switch. Here are issues to consider before buying that generator:</p> <ol> <li><strong>Power</strong>. How many watts do you need for your required power equipment in the house. Put a buffer in those calculations to help out a neighbor with their refrigerator!</li> <li><strong>Fuel</strong>. Determine how much gasoline you will keep on hand to power the generator. Fuel requires stabilizer or must be replaced on a regular schedule. Most residential codes allow only a small amount of gasoline storage in your garage (generally less then 15 gallons).</li> <li><strong>Noise</strong>. Consider how much noise the generator will make. If this is important to you, look for reviews of models that are quieter.</li> <li><strong>Maintenance</strong>. The engine will require maintenance and regular running to keep it in good shape. Check out the</li> <li><strong>Run-time</strong>. Look at the length of run-time of the generator.</li> <li><strong>Weight</strong>. Will you be moving the generator a lot? Does it have wheels? Can you lift it into a truck or trunk?</li> <li><strong>Plan ahead</strong>. Research and purchase before a disaster strikes!</li> </ol> <p></p> <p>Have a great new year!</p> <p><em><em><em>We were one of the bloggers selected by True Value to work on the DIY Squad. We have been compensated for our time commitment to the program as well as our writing about our experience. We have also been compensated for the materials needed for our DIY project. However, our opinions are entirely our own and we have not been paid to publish positive comments.</em></em></em></p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2474/selecting-a-portable-generator/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Selecting a Portable Generator</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Selecting a Portable Generator

Repairing plaster walls and attaching things to plaster walls are discussed in this audio episode of The Handyguys Podcast. The Handyguys received this question from a listener: Would you please talk in detail about homes with plaster walls? I have never lived in a home with plaster walls until now and have only heard horror stories about putting things/pictures, etc, up on the walls. Can curtain rods be hung on plaster? Is it best to live with and/or “enhance” the cracks as a feature, or can they be fixed for a reasonable amount of $$? LOVE YOU GUYS! Thanks! No horror stories here. Some cracks might be inevitable but we discuss in the show doing repairs and hanging things on your plaster walls. Types of plaster walls Traditional plaster are often made by installing strips of wood lath to the framing and then multiple coasts of plaster are spread over the lath. The plaster can contain pig hair or horse hair for strength. This may also be applied, in some instances, over a masonry, brick or stone wall.  Modern plaster, also called veneer plaster, is installed over a substrate board, similar to drywall. Hanging things on plaster walls Paul had good results with what he calls “tempered picture hanging nails” or also called hardened steel picture hook nails. You can get these at your local True Value hardware stores. Make sure you read the package for how much weight the particular hook can hold. You can also use a screw into the lath or a stud. A trim head screw would be ideal but other screws could be used as well. How about curtain rods? YES, you may be able to install the curtain rods with the hardware provided. If you are installing heavy curtains, you will want to use a longer screw than may come with the curtain rods and then make sure you screw through the plaster and into the framing around the window. If you are attaching heavy things like shelves, and you can’t screw into a stud, you may want to use a Toggle Bolt. These expand behind the wall to provide good holding power but will need a larger hole to install them. All of these attachment methods assume your plaster walls are in good shape. What if they are not? Then you may have to repair the plaster before attaching anything to it. Repairing plaster walls There are a few types of common repairs; cracks, missing pieces or separated lath and plaster.  The repair method will vary depending on what type of plaster you have and how it was originally installed. Repairing plaster separated from lath If the plaster has separated from the wood lath, it’s likely because the “keys”, where the plaster connects to the lath, have broken off. You need to re-attach the plaster to the lath. This can be done with drywall screws but a better solution would be to use “plaster washers”. These washers are either metal or plastic. They are about 1 1/2″ wide, a screw is inserted through the washer and driven into the wood lath. The washer pulls the plaster tight against the lath. You will need these washers every foot or so (or every few inches depending on how bad the plaster is detached) to secure the plaster. Once the washers are installed, and the plaster is stabilized, you then skim a coat of new plaster over the washers to hide them.  Repairing cracks in plaster walls It seems that cracks in plaster are sometimes unavoidable in old homes. These homes will move with the seasons and cracks will re-appear over time.  A traditional approach to repairing cracks involves removing any loose plaster and then filling the crack with new plaster, also using some paper or fiberglass joint tape if the crack is large will help. If the house does move a lot then there may be little that can be done to keep the crack from re-occurring. If the crack is small, Paul suggests just using a flexible, paintable, caulk in the crack. The flexibility of the caulk gives you a better chance that it will stay put and the crack will not re-appear. If that fails then you can try the more traditional method down the road.  Repairing holes in plaster walls. For repairing a hole in a plaster wall Paul recommends “Patching Plaster”. It’s a fast drying plaster than comes in small containers for small repairs. Check it out and follow the directions on the package.  Tools for plaster repair You will only need some basic tools and supplies for repairing plaster. You will need a 6″ wide putty knife and a 12″ wide knife, your plaster washers, a utility knife, some paper repair tape and a container to mix the plaster in. These can all be found at your local True Value. We were one of the bloggers selected by True Value to work on the DIY Squad. We have been compensated for our time commitment to the program as well as our writing about our experience. We have also been compensated for the materials needed for our DIY project. However, our opinions are entirely our own and we have not been paid to publish positive comments. The post Repairing Plaster Walls and Attaching Things to Plaster Walls appeared first on The Handyguys.

<p>Repairing plaster walls and attaching things to plaster walls are discussed in this audio episode of The Handyguys Podcast.</p> <p>The Handyguys received this question from a listener:</p> <blockquote><p>Would you please talk in detail about homes with plaster walls? I have never lived in a home with plaster walls until now and have only heard horror stories about putting things/pictures, etc, up on the walls. Can curtain rods be hung on plaster? Is it best to live with and/or “enhance” the cracks as a feature, or can they be fixed for a reasonable amount of $$? LOVE YOU GUYS! Thanks!</p></blockquote> <p>No horror stories here. Some cracks might be inevitable but we discuss in the show doing repairs and hanging things on your plaster walls.</p> <h2>Types of plaster walls</h2> <p>Traditional plaster are often made by installing strips of wood lath to the framing and then multiple coasts of plaster are spread over the lath. The plaster can contain pig hair or horse hair for strength. This may also be applied, in some instances, over a masonry, brick or stone wall.</p> <p></p> <p>Modern plaster, also called veneer plaster, is installed over a substrate board, similar to drywall.</p> <h2>Hanging things on plaster walls</h2> <p>Paul had good results with what he calls “tempered picture hanging nails” or also called hardened steel picture hook nails. You can get these at your local True Value hardware stores. Make sure you read the package for how much weight the particular hook can hold.</p> <p>You can also use a screw into the lath or a stud. A trim head screw would be ideal but other screws could be used as well.</p> <p>How about curtain rods? YES, you may be able to install the curtain rods with the hardware provided. If you are installing heavy curtains, you will want to use a longer screw than may come with the curtain rods and then make sure you screw through the plaster and into the framing around the window.</p> <p>If you are attaching heavy things like shelves, and you can’t screw into a stud, you may want to use a Toggle Bolt. These expand behind the wall to provide good holding power but will need a larger hole to install them.</p> <p>All of these attachment methods assume your plaster walls are in good shape. What if they are not? Then you may have to repair the plaster before attaching anything to it.</p> <h2>Repairing plaster walls</h2> <p>There are a few types of common repairs; cracks, missing pieces or separated lath and plaster.  The repair method will vary depending on what type of plaster you have and how it was originally installed.</p> <h3>Repairing plaster separated from lath</h3> <p>If the plaster has separated from the wood lath, it’s likely because the “keys”, where the plaster connects to the lath, have broken off. You need to re-attach the plaster to the lath. This can be done with drywall screws but a better solution would be to use “plaster washers”. These washers are either metal or plastic. They are about 1 1/2″ wide, a screw is inserted through the washer and driven into the wood lath. The washer pulls the plaster tight against the lath. You will need these washers every foot or so (or every few inches depending on how bad the plaster is detached) to secure the plaster. Once the washers are installed, and the plaster is stabilized, you then skim a coat of new plaster over the washers to hide them.</p> <p></p> <h3>Repairing cracks in plaster walls</h3> <p>It seems that cracks in plaster are sometimes unavoidable in old homes. These homes will move with the seasons and cracks will re-appear over time.  A traditional approach to repairing cracks involves removing any loose plaster and then filling the crack with new plaster, also using some paper or fiberglass joint tape if the crack is large will help. If the house does move a lot then there may be little that can be done to keep the crack from re-occurring.</p> <p>If the crack is small, Paul suggests just using a flexible, paintable, caulk in the crack. The flexibility of the caulk gives you a better chance that it will stay put and the crack will not re-appear. If that fails then you can try the more traditional method down the road.</p> <p></p> <h3>Repairing holes in plaster walls.</h3> <p>For repairing a hole in a plaster wall Paul recommends “Patching Plaster”. It’s a fast drying plaster than comes in small containers for small repairs. Check it out and follow the directions on the package.</p> <p></p> <h2>Tools for plaster repair</h2> <p>You will only need some basic tools and supplies for repairing plaster. You will need a 6″ wide putty knife and a 12″ wide knife, your plaster washers, a utility knife, some paper repair tape and a container to mix the plaster in. These can all be found at your local <a href="Plaster wall repair" rel="noopener nofollow" target="_blank">True Value</a>.</p> <p><em>We were one of the bloggers selected by True Value to work on the DIY Squad. We have been compensated for our time commitment to the program as well as our writing about our experience. We have also been compensated for the materials needed for our DIY project. However, our opinions are entirely our own and we have not been paid to publish positive comments.</em></p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2177/repairing-plaster-walls-and-attaching-things-to-plaster-walls/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Repairing Plaster Walls and Attaching Things to Plaster Walls</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Repairing Plaster Walls and Attaching Things to Plaster Walls

How should the do-it-yourselfer handle dust? When the handyman moves inside to cut and sand wood, a major hazard exists with all the dust that is accumulated in the air and potentially in your lungs.  The Handyguys talk about how to control dust from ruining your day and potentially your life. In order to protect yourself from dust, consider these strategies:  Take into account the dust created by a tool before you use it. Purchase tools which incorporate dust collection as part of the tool design. Install a dedicated dust collector and an air cleaner. Work outside. Wear respirator.  The Handyguys discuss these tips and their own dust collection and mitigation strategies in this episode.  Residential Sprinkler Systems The Handyguys discuss a somewhat controversial issue regarding residential fire suppression systems or sprinkler systems. The controversy isn’t regarding the benefits of such a system, since yes, they do save lives and property. The controversy is if governments should require them to be installed in new construction or major remodels.      Handyguy Brian thinks it should be an individual’s choice and such an expensive option should not be mandated. Pennsylvania recently repealed the requirement after only a few months in effect. In times when builders are hurting for business and customers are trying to save every dollar they can, it’s not wise to put additional costs on the industry. Listen to the discussion. Typical utility room configuration from a residential sprinkler system install Oh, and please no nasty emails if you don’t agree with us. Disagreeing comments are welcome if they are respectful and tasteful. The post Dust Collection and Resiential Sprinkler Systems appeared first on The Handyguys.

<h2>How should the do-it-yourselfer handle dust?</h2> <p>When the handyman moves inside to cut and sand wood, a major hazard exists with all the dust that is accumulated in the air and potentially in your lungs.  The Handyguys talk about how to control dust from ruining your day and potentially your life.</p> <p>In order to protect yourself from dust, consider these strategies:</p> <ul> <li>Take into account the dust created by a tool before you use it.</li> <li>Purchase tools which incorporate dust collection as part of the tool design.</li> <li>Install a dedicated dust collector and an air cleaner.</li> <li>Work outside.</li> <li>Wear respirator.</li> </ul> <p>The Handyguys discuss these tips and their own dust collection and mitigation strategies in this episode.</p> <p></p> <h2>Residential Sprinkler Systems</h2> <p>The Handyguys discuss a somewhat controversial issue regarding residential fire suppression systems or sprinkler systems. The controversy isn’t regarding the benefits of such a system, since yes, they do save lives and property. The controversy is if governments should require them to be installed in new construction or major remodels.</p> <p> <a href="https://i0.wp.com/www.handyguyspodcast.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/orangepipe2_442_400_95.jpg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"></a> <a href="https://i0.wp.com/www.handyguyspodcast.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/puttingcapon1_265_400_95.jpg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"></a> <a href="https://i0.wp.com/www.handyguyspodcast.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/installed-Sprinkler_595_394_95.jpg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"></a> </p> <p>Handyguy Brian thinks it should be an individual’s choice and such an expensive option should not be mandated. Pennsylvania recently repealed the requirement after only a few months in effect. In times when builders are hurting for business and customers are trying to save every dollar they can, it’s not wise to put additional costs on the industry. Listen to the discussion.</p> <p>Typical utility room configuration from a residential sprinkler system install</p> <p>Oh, and please no nasty emails if you don’t agree with us. Disagreeing comments are welcome if they are respectful and tasteful.</p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2131/handyguy-dust-collection-and-resiential-sprinkler-systems/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Dust Collection and Resiential Sprinkler Systems</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Dust Collection and Resiential Sprinkler Systems

Hardscaping options The Handyguys discuss some hardscaping options under consideration for Brian’s father’s house – concrete, stamped concrete and pavers. Concrete Ideas and Tips Plain old concrete is the cheapest and fastest option for a front stoop. A small stoop can be done in a day with the following day to remove forms and clean up any dirt around the area. Brian’s fathers project (front patio, walkway, side walkway and rear patio slab) came in at about $3500 for plain concrete. Image thanks to http://www.landbergconcrete.com Stamped Concrete and Hardscaping Help Stamped concrete is the process where a texture is places in the concrete to emulate the look of stone or brick. Stamped concrete also is typically colored. It’s a less expensive option than pavers, installs quickly and has a nice look. Brian’s fathers project (front patio, walkway, side walkway and rear patio slab) came in at about $4500 for plain concrete. Thanks to http://www.morrisonscustomconcrete.com/ for the image. Pavers or Stamped Concrete Pavers are bricks made from concrete. They come in many different shapes and colors that can be mixed and matched to come up with an interesting and unique look. They are usually more costly than concrete. Pavers also require much more attention to detail in terms of preparation and they are more labor intensive to install. The entire job takes longer than concrete. Brian’s fathers project (front patio, walkway, side walkway and rear patio slab) came in at about $9000 for pavers. Image thanks to http://www.ephenry.com/ Listen to the podcast for a full discussion on each of the options. The post Hardscaping Options – Concrete, pavers or stamped concrete appeared first on The Handyguys.

<h3>Hardscaping options</h3> <p>The Handyguys discuss some hardscaping options under consideration for Brian’s father’s house – concrete, stamped concrete and pavers.</p> <h4>Concrete Ideas and Tips</h4> <p>Plain old concrete is the cheapest and fastest option for a front stoop. A small stoop can be done in a day with the following day to remove forms and clean up any dirt around the area. Brian’s fathers project (front patio, walkway, side walkway and rear patio slab) came in at about $3500 for plain concrete.</p> <p><a href="http://www.landbergconcrete.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"></a>Image thanks to <a href="http://www.landbergconcrete.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.landbergconcrete.com</a></p> <h4>Stamped Concrete and Hardscaping Help</h4> <p>Stamped concrete is the process where a texture is places in the concrete to emulate the look of stone or brick. Stamped concrete also is typically colored. It’s a less expensive option than pavers, installs quickly and has a nice look. Brian’s fathers project (front patio, walkway, side walkway and rear patio slab) came in at about $4500 for plain concrete.</p> <p><a href="http://www.morrisonscustomconcrete.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"></a>Thanks to <a href="http://www.morrisonscustomconcrete.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.morrisonscustomconcrete.com/</a> for the image.</p> <h4>Pavers or Stamped Concrete</h4> <p>Pavers are bricks made from concrete. They come in many different shapes and colors that can be mixed and matched to come up with an interesting and unique look. They are usually more costly than concrete. Pavers also require much more attention to detail in terms of preparation and they are more labor intensive to install. The entire job takes longer than concrete. Brian’s fathers project (front patio, walkway, side walkway and rear patio slab) came in at about $9000 for pavers.</p> <p><a href="http://www.ephenry.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"></a>Image thanks to <a href="http://www.ephenry.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.ephenry.com/</a></p> <p>Listen to the podcast for a full discussion on each of the options.</p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2407/hardscaping-options-concrete-pavers-or-stamped-concrete/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Hardscaping Options – Concrete, pavers or stamped concrete</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Hardscaping Options – Concrete, pavers or stamped concrete

The Handyguys discuss modern refrigerator troubleshooting. Many of these tips apply regardless of who makes your refrigerator. Paul’s GE side-by-side refrigerator is not cooling correctly (model gss25tsre.ss). In this audio podcast, The Handyguys discuss how to track down the issues. Some common problems with modern refrigerators include:  Ice maker does not work. Water line for ice dispenser freezes up. Water line or water tank leaks. Water valve unit on back of refrigerator can go bad. The main control board can go bad or just do dumb things.  Paul’s GE refrigerator not cooling was a big issue. His freezer temperature rose a little above freezing and his refrigerator was not keeping the milk cool. Paul looked to the back inside wall of his freezer for a solution. A panel can be removed to expose the evaporator coil. When his refrigerator was not working well, he noticed that these coils were frozen which prevents the fan properly cooling the freezer (and therefore the refrigerator as well). The initial fix was to melt the ice on the evaporator coil to allow the unit to operate. This fix lasted about a month before it froze up again. The reason the defrost unit fails is usually the result of a bad defrost heater, defrost thermostat or thermistor. Some older models also have a defrost timer but this feature is handled by the main control board on his model (at least he thinks it is…he’s just a handyguy!). Paul tested the heater for continuity and it appeared to be working fine. He also tested and replaced his thermistor. He has a new thermostat if needed but could not wait for this problem to occur again, so he just went ahead and replaced the entire control board. Time will tell if this fix worked (it has been about 3 weeks). Paul highly recommends the forums at http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/ for advice and feedback on your appliance repairs. Listen to the podcast for all the gory details.Please keep in mind, The Handyguys are NOT appliance repairmen, we don’t have schematics for your appliance, and we can’t come out and repair your fridge. We just share what we know with out listeners. Good luck on your repair.The post GE Refrigerator Not Cooling Troubleshooting and Repair appeared first on The Handyguys.

<p>The Handyguys discuss modern refrigerator troubleshooting. Many of these tips apply regardless of who makes your refrigerator.</p> <p>Paul’s GE side-by-side refrigerator is not cooling correctly (model <a href="http://gss25tsre.ss" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">gss25tsre.ss</a>). In this audio podcast, The Handyguys discuss how to track down the issues.</p> <p>Some common problems with modern refrigerators include:</p> <ul> <li>Ice maker does not work.</li> <li>Water line for ice dispenser freezes up.</li> <li>Water line or water tank leaks.</li> <li>Water valve unit on back of refrigerator can go bad.</li> <li>The main control board can go bad or just do dumb things.</li> </ul> <p>Paul’s GE refrigerator not cooling was a big issue. His freezer temperature rose a little above freezing and his refrigerator was not keeping the milk cool. Paul looked to the back inside wall of his freezer for a solution. A panel can be removed to expose the evaporator coil. When his refrigerator was not working well, he noticed that these coils were frozen which prevents the fan properly cooling the freezer (and therefore the refrigerator as well).</p> <p>The initial fix was to melt the ice on the evaporator coil to allow the unit to operate. This fix lasted about a month before it froze up again. The reason the defrost unit fails is usually the result of a bad defrost heater, defrost thermostat or thermistor. Some older models also have a defrost timer but this feature is handled by the main control board on his model (at least he thinks it is…he’s just a handyguy!).</p> <p>Paul tested the heater for continuity and it appeared to be working fine. He also tested and replaced his thermistor. He has a new thermostat if needed but could not wait for this problem to occur again, so he just went ahead and replaced the entire control board. Time will tell if this fix worked (it has been about 3 weeks).</p> <p>Paul highly recommends the forums at <a href="http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/" rel="noopener nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/ </a>for advice and feedback on your appliance repairs.</p> <p>Listen to the podcast for all the gory details.</p>Please keep in mind, The Handyguys are NOT appliance repairmen, we don’t have schematics for your appliance, and we can’t come out and repair your fridge. We just share what we know with out listeners. Good luck on your repair.<br><p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2592/ge-refrigerator-not-cooling-troubleshooting-and-repair/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">GE Refrigerator Not Cooling Troubleshooting and Repair</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

GE Refrigerator Not Cooling Troubleshooting and Repair

Okay – here is a quick tip, not a full show. Lawn Aerating Fall and spring are a great time to aerate your lawn. An aerator will break up hard compacted soil and allow water and nutrients to better reach the roots of your grass. We all know that, that’s not the quick tip. The tip has to do with when you rent an Aerator. Lawn Aerating Problems When you rent an aerator, there is often the previous user’s bits of dirt and grass embedded in the plugs inside tines. Those plugs can contain weeds, weed seeds, other varieties of grass, etc. When you run the aerator over your lawn, you essentially will plant whatever the previous user had in their lawn in your lawn. Not good. Lawn Aerating Best Practice Avoid spreading of weeds, take a moment to hose off the tines before you begin aerating your lawn.  The post Renting a Lawn Aerator and Avoiding Weeds appeared first on The Handyguys.

<p>Okay – here is a quick tip, not a full show.</p> <h4>Lawn Aerating</h4> <p>Fall and spring are a great time to aerate your lawn. An aerator will break up hard compacted soil and allow water and nutrients to better reach the roots of your grass. We all know that, that’s not the quick tip. The tip has to do with when you rent an Aerator.</p> <h4>Lawn Aerating Problems</h4> <p>When you rent an aerator, there is often the previous user’s bits of dirt and grass embedded in the plugs inside tines. Those plugs can contain weeds, weed seeds, other varieties of grass, etc. When you run the aerator over your lawn, you essentially will plant whatever the previous user had in their lawn in your lawn. Not good.</p> <h4>Lawn Aerating Best Practice</h4> <p>Avoid spreading of weeds, take a moment to hose off the tines before you begin aerating your lawn.</p> <p></p> <p>The post <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/2602/renting-a-lawn-aerator-avoiding-weeds/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Renting a Lawn Aerator and Avoiding Weeds</a> appeared first on <a href="http://www.handyguyspodcast.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">The Handyguys</a>.</p>

Renting a Lawn Aerator and Avoiding Weeds

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The best philosophy podcast episodes. Asking questions about how to live a better life, what it means to be and do good, to the idea of God. This topic includes episodes that bring about important questions that everyone should be asking themselves. Add episodes you're interested into your queue below!