Ollie Torr's guest appearances

Ollie Torr

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

BAFFLE DAYS - Australian Climbing

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Lattice Training Podcast

Dave MacLeod

Matt Helliker

Tom Randall

Allison Vest

Lor Sabourin

Kyra Condie

James Walker

Mike Anderson

Lynn Hill

Alex Johnson

Neely Quinn

Mark Campbell

Matt Lloyd

Adam Ondra

Katie Lamb

OwlTail

Aidan Roberts

Ollie Torr is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of Lattice Training. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget60Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torrNuggets:0:06:00 – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery0:09:55 – Ollie’s work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery0:14:25 – Ollie’s thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury0:20:33 – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie’s funny story about his first interview on Training Beta0:23:00 – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression0:26:06 – “What got me here won’t get me there.”0:28:35 – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&amp;A!0:32:00 – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients0:39:54 – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients0:46:10 – Flexibility testing for climbers0:49:59 – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie’s process of examining movement, joint, and action0:56:25 – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan’s approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training1:00:29 – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts1:13:24 – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower1:21:00 – Limbic friction1:22:13 – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”1:30:20 – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing1:39:31 – Key exercises for all climbers1:43:43 – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home1:45:03 – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?1:51:59 – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do1:54:43 – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day1:56:54 – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement2:02:17 – Having agency in your recovery2:03:51 – Let kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body2:07:05 – Setting the bar super low2:08:23 – Staying on the bus2:11:39 – Ollie’s gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period2:20:10 – Testing his fingers in Tom’s cellar2:21:41 – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength2:28:22 – The secret to finger strength is….2:31:45 – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing2:35:16 – Why Ollie doesn’t think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer2:40:58 – Writing yourself a letter2:43:12 – My (Steven’s) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life2:45:00 – 3 key lessons from Ollie2:51:49 – How to back off after a peak performance2:56:47 – “The main reason most of us can’t train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”3:01:45 – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under recovering3:09:41 – “Progression isn’t always the answer.”3:16:36 – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie’s story about his first 5.14b (8c)3:25:01 – My 2021 summer season in RMNP3:28:18 – Removing the friction in your life around climbing3:31:53 – Take action on something3:34:48 – Thankful for the Lattice Team3:36:42 – Wrap up

<a href="https://www.instagram.com/ollietorr/?hl=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Ollie Torr</a> is an ex-gymnast, high-end rock climber, and co-founder of <a href="https://www.instagram.com/latticetraining/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Lattice Training</a>. We went deep in this conversation and covered Ollie’s top exercises for different types of climbers, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, how to find your own superpowers and become a specialist, the secret to finger strength, balancing strength and fitness, overtraining vs. under recovering, taking action is six-week blocks, and much more!Check out PhysiVantage!<a href="https://physivantage.com/discount/NUGGET15?redirect=%2Fcollections%2Fsupplements-for-climbers" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)</a>Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!<a href="http://crimpd.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">crimpd.com</a>Or download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Grasshopper Climbing!<a href="https://grasshopperclimbing.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">grasshopperclimbing.com</a><a href="https://www.instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">instagram.com/grasshopperclimbing</a>Tell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Green Chef!<a href="http://greenchef.com/nugget60" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">greenchef.com/nugget60</a>Use code "NUGGE60" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!Check out Athletic Greens!<a href="http://athleticgreens.com/NUGGET" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">athleticgreens.com/NUGGET</a>Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:<ul><li>Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu</li></ul> Become a Patron:<a href="http://patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing</a>Show Notes:  <a href="http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ollie-torr</a>Nuggets:0:06:00 – Update on my bicep tendon injury and recovery0:09:55 – Ollie’s work with the GB Judo team on grip strength and injury recovery0:14:25 – Ollie’s thoughts on the final stage of recovering from an injury0:20:33 – My introduction to Lattice in 2016, and Ollie’s funny story about his first interview on Training Beta0:23:00 – Perfectionism, paralysis by analysis, and action breeds motivation and progression0:26:06 – “What got me here won’t get me there.”0:28:35 – Plans for a round two! Stay tuned for a listener Q&amp;A!0:32:00 – Assessments, and gathering information from new clients0:39:54 – The key metrics that Lattice assesses with new clients0:46:10 – Flexibility testing for climbers0:49:59 – Trying to figure out what works for yourself and your body as an athlete, and Ollie’s process of examining movement, joint, and action0:56:25 – Coaching Aidan Roberts, Aidan’s approach to training for Isles of Wonder Sit (V16/8C+ FA), and the value of combining strength movements with replica training1:00:29 – Vacuum climbing, how to climb more like Aidan Roberts, and training with Toby Roberts1:13:24 – Specializing vs. working on weaknesses and rounding out your style, and finding your superpower1:21:00 – Limbic friction1:22:13 – What Ollie learned from Tom Randall, and training to “pass the exam”1:30:20 – Exercises for people who struggle with narrow climbing1:39:31 – Key exercises for all climbers1:43:43 – Dorsi flexion (ankle) test you can do at home1:45:03 – Do tight ankles help with climbing on small foot holds?1:51:59 – One exercise that Ollie wants every climber to do1:54:43 – Exercises for office workers to do throughout the day1:56:54 – “Safety comes through strength”, and the value of blood flow and daily movement2:02:17 – Having agency in your recovery2:03:51 – Let kicks, staple exercises that climbers should do regularly, and playing around with your body2:07:05 – Setting the bar super low2:08:23 – Staying on the bus2:11:39 – Ollie’s gymnastics background, training his fingers after college, and climbing his first V10, V11, and V12 in a two-month period2:20:10 – Testing his fingers in Tom’s cellar2:21:41 – Switching training with Tom Randall, how he improved his fitness and efficiency to climb 5.14b (8c), and climbing his first V13 by combining fitness and strength2:28:22 – The secret to finger strength is….2:31:45 – Helping Tom get stronger, and why Tom was able to apply the strength quickly to his rock climbing2:35:16 – Why Ollie doesn’t think low volume all year round is a good strategy, and thoughts on prepping for a sport climbing trip as a boulderer2:40:58 – Writing yourself a letter2:43:12 – My (Steven’s) story of getting injured right after the best week of climbing of my life2:45:00 – 3 key lessons from Ollie2:51:49 – How to back off after a peak performance2:56:47 – “The main reason most of us can’t train like professional athletes is because of our headspace and not because of physical limitations.”3:01:45 – Two reminders that Ollie took away from a period of burnout, and overtraining vs. under recovering3:09:41 – “Progression isn’t always the answer.”3:16:36 – Taking the pressure off, and Ollie’s story about his first 5.14b (8c)3:25:01 – My 2021 summer season in RMNP3:28:18 – Removing the friction in your life around climbing3:31:53 – Take action on something3:34:48 – Thankful for the Lattice Team3:36:42 – Wrap up

EP 153: Ollie Torr — The Secret to Finger Strength, How to Climb Like Aidan Roberts, and Staying on the Bus

Ok, some interesting topics this time! We have Tom and Ollie on the sofa again, doing more of a deep dive on some of the most complex training questions that you've been asking us. Whilst it's always very hard to come up with blanket answers, there are some good general rules of thumb you can stick to and also we try and keep the science as practical as possible - we love being geeky about it, but it MUST be useful and practical! A little summary of what this week's Ask Lattice covers:Q1: How do you know you're working at the right intensity for anaerobic capacity and aerobic capacity training?Q2: What are the differences between block and concurrent periodisation? Why would you choose between each method?Q3: Can you train for trad, bouldering &amp; sport all at once?Q4: How do you peak for a trip?Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: https://latticetraining.com/plans/​Download the Crimpd App:App store - https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/crimp...​Google Play - https://play.google.com/store/apps/de...​

Ok, some interesting topics this time! We have Tom and Ollie on the sofa again, doing more of a deep dive on some of the most complex training questions that you've been asking us. Whilst it's always very hard to come up with blanket answers, there are some good general rules of thumb you can stick to and also we try and keep the science as practical as possible - we love being geeky about it, but it MUST be useful and practical! A little summary of what this week's Ask Lattice covers: Q1: How do you know you're working at the right intensity for anaerobic capacity and aerobic capacity training? Q2: What are the differences between block and concurrent periodisation? Why would you choose between each method? Q3: Can you train for trad, bouldering &amp; sport all at once? Q4: How do you peak for a trip? Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/redirect?event=video_description&amp;redir_token=QUFFLUhqbFpYNndjaXVOdEJpSnZSc2Q0OVVxY1JWQmpqQXxBQ3Jtc0tsYVpSYVRpMGNFZExXU0hQSW45ekZIZEs0aVpvNmlTUjVjNGQ5dEhWSVlLR283QnBObW4ySVlLdUVaejRWRFdZX19OVlR4WWZZcVBiZlVLR3g4X2lGNlA4aDZjYWl4ZmtTWG83dkJCbExkdjZBamswcw&amp;q=https%3A%2F%2Flatticetraining.com%2Fplans%2F" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://latticetraining.com/plans/</a>​ Download the Crimpd App: App store - <a href="https://www.youtube.com/redirect?event=video_description&amp;redir_token=QUFFLUhqbDl4bTZ6V2YtTndfVzZrYVo4bFJjWGsxYmNGZ3xBQ3Jtc0trOFJpME8zNzRIa0hlZ1hvOHRLTVpkRUN0MjVnaE96VnlKYnhqRnNIZnR0WGdFTTF1djFxc2w4bEZ3T1c2ZnktX3RRaDVQS25hdG1aS1A4VWxnTEF2bWNLTk1heTVFOXVWVjdDcnVrTUhYbzh0SkhHaw&amp;q=https%3A%2F%2Fitunes.apple.com%2Fus%2Fapp%2Fcrimpd%2Fid1252333138" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/crimp...</a>​ Google Play - <a href="https://www.youtube.com/redirect?event=video_description&amp;redir_token=QUFFLUhqa1MxUVM5ZEw5OC1IUEIyLXc4bzlpd2cxWHJNQXxBQ3Jtc0tuaHRXUHZJVTB3Y3B2Rk5rbkstckhnT1BnNUwtX3VzQnVTdFVxMzNEUTJEZ2lvNXVQYmRpZ3ZmZURKWHBocnh3ZmhIVlNGbzhkQjdjQ1VFY3VuYXJET0tjcmdWczlLT19rY05NYlRZZlZ5Z3Q5RlVhRQ&amp;q=https%3A%2F%2Fplay.google.com%2Fstore%2Fapps%2Fdetails%3Fid%3Dcom.crimpd.ui" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">https://play.google.com/store/apps/de...</a>​

Climbing Training Stimulus: Tom Randall & Ollie Torr Q&A

TBP 091 :: Tom Randall and Ollie Torr on How Their Training Research Can Help Us