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The TrainingBeta Podcast: Climbing Training Podcast

Updated 14 days ago

Health
Sports & Recreation
Fitness & Nutrition
Outdoor
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Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

Read more

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

iTunes Ratings

262 Ratings
Average Ratings
226
17
10
7
2

Love this podcast!

By jmiyo - Jul 11 2019
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I’ve listened to almost all of this podcast and absolutely love it! Super informative and helpful. Perfect for my commute every day and to get psyched for climbing.

Fantastic!

By Midoriness13 - Jan 09 2019
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Very informative... thank you, Neeley!

iTunes Ratings

262 Ratings
Average Ratings
226
17
10
7
2

Love this podcast!

By jmiyo - Jul 11 2019
Read more
I’ve listened to almost all of this podcast and absolutely love it! Super informative and helpful. Perfect for my commute every day and to get psyched for climbing.

Fantastic!

By Midoriness13 - Jan 09 2019
Read more
Very informative... thank you, Neeley!
Cover image of The TrainingBeta Podcast: Climbing Training Podcast

The TrainingBeta Podcast: Climbing Training Podcast

Updated 14 days ago

Read more

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

Rank #1: TBP 080 :: Steve Bechtel on How to Create Your Own Training Plan

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Jun 01 2017
1 hour 16 mins
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Rank #2: TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing

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In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.

Aug 09 2018
1 hour 10 mins
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Rank #3: TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics

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I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.

Jul 24 2019
1 hour 27 mins
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Rank #4: TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months

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Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.

Mar 26 2019
1 hour 10 mins
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Rank #5: TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training

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I was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. I hope you like this interview!

About Adam Ondra

He doesn't really need much of an introduction, does he? He's debatably the strongest overall climber in the world, having the most impressive climbing resume I've ever even imagined. Here's what his Wikipedia page has to say about him.

He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering. In addition, he succeeded to win both medals in the same year, during the 2014 edition. He has also a similar record in the World Cup, being the only athlete to have won the World Cup in two disciplines, lead in 2009 and bouldering in 2010.

As of 7 December 2014, he climbed 1,162 routes between 8a (5.13b) and 9b+ (5.15c), of which 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 548 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d) and 15 onsights at 8c+ (5.14c).[1] He is the first climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c) (Change, Flatanger, 4 October 2012)[2] and the only climber to have redpointed three 9b+ (5.15c) routes.

And that's not even including his bouldering accomplishments, which include 202 boulders between V11 and V16. Jeeeeez...

Here's what we talked about:
  • How he trained to win both bouldering and route climbing world championships
  • How he used to train before he started training with Patxi
  • How he manages to go to school full time and climb 5.15c
  • The prospect of climbing 5.15d
  • His thoughts on diet and body weight
Related Links
  • Adam isn't online of his own accord (he's a little busy), but www.adamondra.com is a fan page that someone else made for him...
Support The Podcast
Listen and Review on iTunes
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

Photo

Photo credit goes to Dario Rodriguez of Desnivel.com

Thanks for listening!
Feb 18 2015
1 hour 11 mins
Play

Rank #6: TBP 007 :: Steve Bechtel on Training, Power Endurance, Running, Weight Loss, and More

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I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel, a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, honing in on individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website where he writes articles and training programs for climbers. You can subscribe to the site to get full access to all of his info. He also runs a gym in Lander, WY called Elemental Fitness, where he works with climbers and athletes of all kinds.

I've been following Steve's stuff for a while, and I post his articles on our own Facebook page because I consider him an expert in a field that has very few experts (climbing training). But I wanted to interview him partially for selfish reasons - I'll be honest ;) We took a few minutes of the interview to use me as sort of a guinea pig. I asked him what he'd do with me right now while I'm trying to send a powerful, pretty short route at my limit. He gave me some great advice.

I also asked him as many other technical questions as I could, and tried to make those questions applicable to as many people as possible, so you can take some usable advice from this conversation. After all, that's the mission of TrainingBeta: practical training advice. Steve has worked with a lot of climbers through the years, so he doesn't have any problems rattling off big scientific words and answers to all of our common climbing training questions. Hopefully we'll talk again on the show soon!

What We Talked About
  • How and why he learned so much about training
  • How he approaches new training clients
  • How to train power endurance and overall fitness
  • What he'd do with me as a client to help me send my current project
  • Whether or not running is good for climbing
  • How to lose weight for climbing
  • That our conversation was really awesome and we want to do it again soon
Related Links
Support The Podcast
  • This podcast is made possible by the training programs on TrainingBeta here. Check 'em out if you need some help sending!
  • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen on iTunes
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

Photo

Portrait of Steve Bechtel by Mei Ratz

Thanks for listening!

May 19 2014
51 mins
Play

Rank #7: TBP 088 :: How Adam Ondra Sent The World's First 9c / 5.15d

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Sep 11 2017
1 hour 5 mins
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Rank #8: TBP 021:: Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight, and Crowdfunding

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About Alex Puccio

Alex "The Pucc" Puccio is the strongest female American boulderer, and the most accomplished female American bouldering competitor. She's won ABS Nationals 9 times, and has medaled 13 times in Bouldering World Cup events since 2009. Her goal this year is to be the overall IFSC World Cup Bouldering champ and to climb V15.

She was the 4th woman to climb V14 (Jade and then Wheel of Chaos in Rocky Mountain), she's climbed 7 V13's, and she's done all of this in the past year. Naturally, I wanted to know how she went from climbing V12 to crushing V14 in such a short amount of time, so we talked all about how her training, diet, and mental game have changed recently.

What We Talked About
  • Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis
  • Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game
  • Why she doesn't have enough sponsor money, and what she's doing about it
  • How she lost weight, and whether or not she's anorexic
  • What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs
  • Lots more - she's very honest and open
Links We Mentioned
Discount on The Best Chalk Ever

Alex Puccio loves FrictionLabs chalk, and so do we. This chalk really does make a difference - it's no joke. Go to www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta for a special discount to try it out for yourself.

Training Programs for You
Please Review Us on iTunes!
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

Thanks for listening!
May 20 2015
1 hour 23 mins
Play

Rank #9: TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA's, Her Weight, and Nutrition

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In this interview, I talk with pro climber Sasha DiGiulian about her current training regime, how her goals have changed over the years, what significance she puts on FFA's, and how her body weight has affected her climbing and people's opinions of her.
Mar 21 2018
1 hour 7 mins
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Rank #10: TBP 039 :: Dave MacLeod on Training, Injuries, Diet, and Fear

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About Dave MacLeod

Dave MacLeod is one of the most famous climbers, having put up many first ascents of sport, boulder, mixed, and trad climbs. Honestly, I'm not going to do him justice with a short introduction of his climbing and career, as he's accomplished so much in his 37 years. So here's his Wikipedia page. Please read it - it's fascinating. 

What We Talked About
  • His climbing career
  • How he's trained for different projects
  • How mixed climbing helps him to train for sport and trad 
  • The mistakes most climbers make in their training
  • Excelling even when the pressure is on
  • How he deals with fear on scary routes
  • His secret diet (exposed! woohoo!)
Related Links
Training Programs for You
Dec 31 2015
1 hour 17 mins
Play

Rank #11: TBP 045 :: Ethan Pringle on Jumbo Love 15b, The Nest V15, and Depression

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About Ethan Pringle

Ethan Pringle is a 29 year-old professional rock climber who's had immense success in the competition scene as well as on real rock. He made the 2nd ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b) and has done a few V14s and is working on his first V15 (The Nest). He's an all around strong, determined climber, and I wanted to know what makes him tick.

What We Talked About
  • How he prepared for Jumbo Love
  • How he stayed motivated on Jumbo Love for 7 years
  • How depression has affected him and his climbing
  • Getting over psychological plateaus
  • Future goals
Ethan Pringle Links
Feb 24 2016
1 hour 10 mins
Play

Rank #12: TBP 079 :: Daniel Woods on Training, Comps, Life Stuff, and The Pressure to Send

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In this interview with Daniel Woods, we talk about his training, comp climbing, his upcoming goals, and the pressure he feels to send. 

May 19 2017
1 hour 20 mins
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Rank #13: TBP 070 :: Josh Dreher on Losing Weight and Home Gym Training

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About Josh Dreher

Josh Dreher is, among many other things, the husband of Teal Dreher, who was my first "normal person" interview on the podcast. I wanted to do another "normal person" interview, and I thought that Josh would be the perfect follow-up to Teal. I keep putting "normal person" in quotations because Josh is actually quite strong: a V12 climber. So he's not exactly normal.

However, he's had much of his success in the past year and a half after losing about 40 pounds and training diligently in his home gym. I found out in the interview that he actually attributes at least 60% of his newfound success to losing weight. 

He's been climbing for about 15 years, and he'd done 6 V10's or harder in that time. After the serious training and the weight loss, he's done 36 V10's or harder, and 2 of those were V12's, which he'd never climbed before. 

Pretty impressive. He also has a full-time job and really only trains in his garage, so I thought we could all learn a thing or two from him. 

 

Josh Dreher Interview Details
  • Scheduling training with full-time job
  • How he lost 40 pounds
  • Why he stopped running 
  • Moon board training
  • Home gym setup
  • The workout he did right before the interview
  • How he's designed his training plan
  • Dealing with sweaty hands
Dec 22 2016
1 hour 15 mins
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Rank #14: TBP 063 :: The Anderson Brothers' Evolving Training Philosophies and New Research

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About The Anderson Brothers

For the uninitiated, Mark and Mike are the Rock Prodigy guys, the authors of the very popular book, The Rock Climber’s Training Manual, all about the training methods they’ve developed over the last two decades. They’re the trainers who helped J-Star turn his training methods around in order to do “Biographie” (or “Realization”, 5.15a) and many other hard climbs. But they also have impressive climbing résumés themselves, despite having high-stress jobs and families.

Mike is 39 years old and is an Aeronautical Engineer, aka robot developer. He’s an officer in the US Air Force and he has 2 young sons with his wife in Colorado. He’s redpointed 5.14c sport and onsighted 5.13d, and has done some very impressive 5.13s, including First Free Ascents of Touchstone Wall (5.13, IV), Space Shot (5.13 IV) and Thunderbird Wall (5.13 VI) in Zion, UT, and Arcturus (5.13, VI) on Yosemite’s Half Dome.

Mark, also 39, (by the way, they’re twins) supervises a team of computer engineers and has 2 kids with his wife, and they also live in Colorado. He’s an “all-around” climber, having climbed on four continents, established numerous first ascents, freed El Cap, summited Denali, red-pointed 5.14d.

Along with their book, Mark and Mike Anderson also partnered with Trango to make the Rock Prodigy Training Center, a hangboard they recommend. They now have a new hangboard, the Forge, which they say is the Ferrari of hangboards. So they’re kinda the shit when it comes to training.

Anderson Brothers Interview Details

In this second interview with both of the twins, Mark and Mike Anderson, we talk about what they've been sending since last time we talked, how their training philosophies have changed, and the academic research they've been doing on climbing training. 

  • Mark's send of Shadowboxing (5.14d)
  • Mike's crushing spree (5.14c's and onsight of 5.13d)
  • Mike's research on finger training
  • How Mark trained specifically for Shadowboxing
  • Linear vs Non-Linear Periodization
  • How much weight to add on hangboard
  • Training and sending while having a job and family
Anderson Brothers Links
Oct 14 2016
1 hour 6 mins
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Rank #15: TBP 055 :: Lynn Hill (need I say more?)

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About Lynn Hill

This is an interview with Lynn Hill, who's arguably the most famous climber of all time. She was the first person to free the Nose on El Cap (5.14-), the first woman to climb 5.14a, the first woman to onsight 5.13b, and she was a fierce competitor. She has over 30+ international titles and claimed 5 victories at the Arco Rock Master. More than once, she was the only person - man or woman - to do a route at a comp.  

These days, she's a mother and an entrepreneur, and has settled down a bit. We talked about how she used to train for projects, what it was like back in the day, and the inequalities between women and men in the sport. 

More About Our Talk
  • How she trained for the Nose and other climbs
  • The significance of FFA's
  • Whether men and women should compete on the same routes at comps
  • Her weight lifting records
  • How to overcome fear and be bold like Lynn
  • Motherhood and how it changed her climbing
Lynn Hill Links Training Programs for You
Jun 14 2016
1 hour 3 mins
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Rank #16: TBP 066 :: Physical Therapist Esther Smith Talks About Shoulders

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About Esther Smith

Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City. She is a 5.13- climber who's reaped the benefits of her own physical therapy practices, having healed a shoulder injury through exercises, stretches, and alternative therapies.

She works almost exclusively with rock climbers, which is rare for a physical therapist. I wish I lived in Salt Lake City so I could go see her myself! For a complete bio and list of certifications and qualifications, please visit www.grassrootsphysicaltherapy.com.

In this first of 3 interviews with Esther, we focused on shoulder injuries and how to heal them.

Esther Smith Interview Details

Esther recently acted as the physical therapist for the women's Black Diamond Bootcamp, where she helped Babsi Zangerl heal a shoulder injury WHILE she was training hard.  

  • Babsi's shoulder issues and how she healed
  • How Esther healed her own shoulder injury
  • The most common shoulder injuries
  • Proper fingerboard posture to avoid injuries
  • What exercises to do to support shoulders
  • How much pain is too much?
Esther Smith Links
Nov 02 2016
1 hour 10 mins
Play

Rank #17: TBP 040 :: Nina Williams on Training for V13, Comps, and Diet

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About Nina Williams

Nina Williams is a boulderer (and budding trad climber) who lives and trains in Boulder, CO. She's climbed V13 and she won the Dark Horse comp in 2015, but she spends most of her energy climbing outdoors and training for that. Being a full-time sponsored climber, she's able to travel often, and she's spent time in Australia, South Africa, Switzerland, Hueco Tanks, and other popular climbing destinations. I sat down with Nina to talk about how she trains, what she eats, her attitude toward climbing, and what it's like training and climbing with Alex Puccio.  

What We Talked About
  • Why she did highball boulders and why she doesn't anymore
  • Where her climbing is going
  • Why trad climbing is so satisfying to her
  • How she changed her approach to comp climbing
  • Who trains her
  • Her home training set up
  • What she eats and why
Related Links
Training Programs for You
Jan 06 2016
1 hour 6 mins
Play

Rank #18: TBP 061 :: Jonathan Siegrist's Minimal Training Regime and Meticulous Skin Care

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About Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist (or J-Star) is a 31-year-old professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. He grew up with his ever-psyched climbing dad, Bob Siegrist, trying to get him to love the sport as much as he did. He didn't really take to it until his late teens, though. Since then, he's become one of the world's most prolific sport climbers. To date, he's climbed four 5.15a's, sixteen 5.14d's and hundreds of other 5.14s.

He's also bouldered up to V14, sent sketchy PG-13 and R-rated trad climbs, and has sent 5.14 trad big walls. (Read his recent write-up on Arc-teryx about his ascent of Direct Dunn Westbay, a 5.14 multi-pitch route at 13,400 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park).

He's also bolted a bunch of routes of all grades in Colorado, Idaho, and beyond.

Besides all that, he's one of my best friends, and I think he's one of the most motivated, positive climbers I've ever met. Aside from being an incredible climber, his genuine gratitude for life and hunger for adventure are admirable.

Jonathan Siegrist Interview Details

In this interview with Jonathan Siegrist, we talk about how his training has evolved since our first podcast interview a couple years ago. But mostly, we talk about his attitude towards climbing, how he takes care of his skin, and what's next for him.

  • Why counting # of tries is pointless
  • His meticulous skin care
  • How to heal a split tip
  • Body weight and performance (real talk)
  • Why he doesn't fingerboard much anymore
  • Bouldering as training
Jonathan Siegrist Links Training Programs for You FrictionLabs Discount

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  Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Sep 21 2016
1 hour 14 mins
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Rank #19: TBP 036 :: Steve Bechtel Interview #2

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About Steve Bechtel

I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel for a second time. Steve is a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, catering to individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website where he writes articles and training programs for climbers. You can subscribe to the site to get full access to all of his info. He also runs a gym in Lander, WY called Elemental Fitness, where he works with climbers and athletes of all kinds.

What We Talked About
  • What makes a good climbing trainer
  • Confusion about periodization
  • Confusion about finger training
  • Repeaters vs. Eva Lopez training
  • Climbing as training for climbing
  • Listener questions
Related Links Training Programs for You
Nov 25 2015
1 hour 13 mins
Play

Rank #20: TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie's Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program

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In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.

Mar 28 2018
1 hour 16 mins
Play

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