Cover image of The TrainingBeta Podcast: Climbing Training Podcast
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Rank #126 in Wilderness category

Health & Fitness
Sports
Wilderness

The TrainingBeta Podcast: Climbing Training Podcast

Updated 1 day ago

Rank #126 in Wilderness category

Health & Fitness
Sports
Wilderness
Read more

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

Read more

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

iTunes Ratings

272 Ratings
Average Ratings
232
20
11
7
2

Love this podcast!

By jmiyo - Jul 11 2019
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I’ve listened to almost all of this podcast and absolutely love it! Super informative and helpful. Perfect for my commute every day and to get psyched for climbing.

Fantastic!

By Midoriness13 - Jan 09 2019
Read more
Very informative... thank you, Neeley!

iTunes Ratings

272 Ratings
Average Ratings
232
20
11
7
2

Love this podcast!

By jmiyo - Jul 11 2019
Read more
I’ve listened to almost all of this podcast and absolutely love it! Super informative and helpful. Perfect for my commute every day and to get psyched for climbing.

Fantastic!

By Midoriness13 - Jan 09 2019
Read more
Very informative... thank you, Neeley!
Cover image of The TrainingBeta Podcast: Climbing Training Podcast

The TrainingBeta Podcast: Climbing Training Podcast

Updated 1 day ago

Rank #126 in Wilderness category

Read more

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

Rank #1: TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training

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I was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. I hope you like this interview!

About Adam Ondra

He doesn't really need much of an introduction, does he? He's debatably the strongest overall climber in the world, having the most impressive climbing resume I've ever even imagined. Here's what his Wikipedia page has to say about him.

He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering. In addition, he succeeded to win both medals in the same year, during the 2014 edition. He has also a similar record in the World Cup, being the only athlete to have won the World Cup in two disciplines, lead in 2009 and bouldering in 2010.

As of 7 December 2014, he climbed 1,162 routes between 8a (5.13b) and 9b+ (5.15c), of which 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 548 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d) and 15 onsights at 8c+ (5.14c).[1] He is the first climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c) (Change, Flatanger, 4 October 2012)[2] and the only climber to have redpointed three 9b+ (5.15c) routes.

And that's not even including his bouldering accomplishments, which include 202 boulders between V11 and V16. Jeeeeez...

Here's what we talked about:
  • How he trained to win both bouldering and route climbing world championships
  • How he used to train before he started training with Patxi
  • How he manages to go to school full time and climb 5.15c
  • The prospect of climbing 5.15d
  • His thoughts on diet and body weight
Related Links
  • Adam isn't online of his own accord (he's a little busy), but www.adamondra.com is a fan page that someone else made for him...
Support The Podcast
Listen and Review on iTunes
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

Photo

Photo credit goes to Dario Rodriguez of Desnivel.com

Thanks for listening!
Feb 18 2015
1 hour 11 mins
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Rank #2: TBP 021:: Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight, and Crowdfunding

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About Alex Puccio

Alex "The Pucc" Puccio is the strongest female American boulderer, and the most accomplished female American bouldering competitor. She's won ABS Nationals 9 times, and has medaled 13 times in Bouldering World Cup events since 2009. Her goal this year is to be the overall IFSC World Cup Bouldering champ and to climb V15.

She was the 4th woman to climb V14 (Jade and then Wheel of Chaos in Rocky Mountain), she's climbed 7 V13's, and she's done all of this in the past year. Naturally, I wanted to know how she went from climbing V12 to crushing V14 in such a short amount of time, so we talked all about how her training, diet, and mental game have changed recently.

What We Talked About
  • Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis
  • Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game
  • Why she doesn't have enough sponsor money, and what she's doing about it
  • How she lost weight, and whether or not she's anorexic
  • What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs
  • Lots more - she's very honest and open
Links We Mentioned
Discount on The Best Chalk Ever

Alex Puccio loves FrictionLabs chalk, and so do we. This chalk really does make a difference - it's no joke. Go to www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta for a special discount to try it out for yourself.

Training Programs for You
Please Review Us on iTunes!
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

Thanks for listening!
May 20 2015
1 hour 23 mins
Play

Rank #3: TBP 080 :: Steve Bechtel on How to Create Your Own Training Plan

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Jun 01 2017
1 hour 16 mins
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Rank #4: TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing

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In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.

Aug 09 2018
1 hour 10 mins
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Rank #5: TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months

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Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.

Mar 26 2019
1 hour 10 mins
Play

Rank #6: TBP 007 :: Steve Bechtel on Training, Power Endurance, Running, Weight Loss, and More

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I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel, a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, honing in on individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website where he writes articles and training programs for climbers. You can subscribe to the site to get full access to all of his info. He also runs a gym in Lander, WY called Elemental Fitness, where he works with climbers and athletes of all kinds.

I've been following Steve's stuff for a while, and I post his articles on our own Facebook page because I consider him an expert in a field that has very few experts (climbing training). But I wanted to interview him partially for selfish reasons - I'll be honest ;) We took a few minutes of the interview to use me as sort of a guinea pig. I asked him what he'd do with me right now while I'm trying to send a powerful, pretty short route at my limit. He gave me some great advice.

I also asked him as many other technical questions as I could, and tried to make those questions applicable to as many people as possible, so you can take some usable advice from this conversation. After all, that's the mission of TrainingBeta: practical training advice. Steve has worked with a lot of climbers through the years, so he doesn't have any problems rattling off big scientific words and answers to all of our common climbing training questions. Hopefully we'll talk again on the show soon!

What We Talked About
  • How and why he learned so much about training
  • How he approaches new training clients
  • How to train power endurance and overall fitness
  • What he'd do with me as a client to help me send my current project
  • Whether or not running is good for climbing
  • How to lose weight for climbing
  • That our conversation was really awesome and we want to do it again soon
Related Links
Support The Podcast
  • This podcast is made possible by the training programs on TrainingBeta here. Check 'em out if you need some help sending!
  • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen on iTunes
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

Photo

Portrait of Steve Bechtel by Mei Ratz

Thanks for listening!

May 19 2014
51 mins
Play

Rank #7: TBP 063 :: The Anderson Brothers' Evolving Training Philosophies and New Research

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About The Anderson Brothers

For the uninitiated, Mark and Mike are the Rock Prodigy guys, the authors of the very popular book, The Rock Climber’s Training Manual, all about the training methods they’ve developed over the last two decades. They’re the trainers who helped J-Star turn his training methods around in order to do “Biographie” (or “Realization”, 5.15a) and many other hard climbs. But they also have impressive climbing résumés themselves, despite having high-stress jobs and families.

Mike is 39 years old and is an Aeronautical Engineer, aka robot developer. He’s an officer in the US Air Force and he has 2 young sons with his wife in Colorado. He’s redpointed 5.14c sport and onsighted 5.13d, and has done some very impressive 5.13s, including First Free Ascents of Touchstone Wall (5.13, IV), Space Shot (5.13 IV) and Thunderbird Wall (5.13 VI) in Zion, UT, and Arcturus (5.13, VI) on Yosemite’s Half Dome.

Mark, also 39, (by the way, they’re twins) supervises a team of computer engineers and has 2 kids with his wife, and they also live in Colorado. He’s an “all-around” climber, having climbed on four continents, established numerous first ascents, freed El Cap, summited Denali, red-pointed 5.14d.

Along with their book, Mark and Mike Anderson also partnered with Trango to make the Rock Prodigy Training Center, a hangboard they recommend. They now have a new hangboard, the Forge, which they say is the Ferrari of hangboards. So they’re kinda the shit when it comes to training.

Anderson Brothers Interview Details

In this second interview with both of the twins, Mark and Mike Anderson, we talk about what they've been sending since last time we talked, how their training philosophies have changed, and the academic research they've been doing on climbing training. 

  • Mark's send of Shadowboxing (5.14d)
  • Mike's crushing spree (5.14c's and onsight of 5.13d)
  • Mike's research on finger training
  • How Mark trained specifically for Shadowboxing
  • Linear vs Non-Linear Periodization
  • How much weight to add on hangboard
  • Training and sending while having a job and family
Anderson Brothers Links
Oct 14 2016
1 hour 6 mins
Play

Rank #8: Ask Kris 005 :: Improving Core Strength for Climbing

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Improving Core Strength for Climbing

This week, in our fifth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve core strength for climbing. Having just spent last week in Rifle on my project, I realized that I need to gain a lot of core strength myself, so I loved this episode. 

Here's what we talked about:

  • What our "core" actually is
  • What exercises you should do to train core strength
  • How I should train for my core-intensive kneebar crux
  • Why we don't train core with low reps/high weights
  • How to train your lower back to avoid injury
Train Your Core with Kris's Programs

All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have a focus on core stability and strength.

If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program.

Freebie Core Workout

Do all of the exercises below without stopping, except for the noted rest times. 

TRX Pikes (Video):

  • Reps: 25
  • Rest: 10 seconds

TRX Saws (Video):

  • Reps: 25 
  • Rest: 10 seconds

AB Hip Raises (Video):

  • 25 reps 
  • Rest: 10 seconds

TRX Planks (Video):

  • 1 minute
  • Sets: 2-4
  • Rest: 1-2 minutes between sets

Toes to bar

  • Reps: 15
  • Sets: 4
  • Rest: 1 minute between sets

Ab Roller

  • Reps: 20
  • Sets: 4
  • Rest: 45 seconds between sets

V-Ups (Video)

  • 25 v-ups
  • Sets: 4
  • Rest: 90 seconds between sets

All done - nice work! 

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
May 16 2016
23 mins
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Rank #9: TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA's, Her Weight, and Nutrition

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In this interview, I talk with pro climber Sasha DiGiulian about her current training regime, how her goals have changed over the years, what significance she puts on FFA's, and how her body weight has affected her climbing and people's opinions of her.
Mar 21 2018
1 hour 7 mins
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Rank #10: TBP 055 :: Lynn Hill (need I say more?)

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About Lynn Hill

This is an interview with Lynn Hill, who's arguably the most famous climber of all time. She was the first person to free the Nose on El Cap (5.14-), the first woman to climb 5.14a, the first woman to onsight 5.13b, and she was a fierce competitor. She has over 30+ international titles and claimed 5 victories at the Arco Rock Master. More than once, she was the only person - man or woman - to do a route at a comp.  

These days, she's a mother and an entrepreneur, and has settled down a bit. We talked about how she used to train for projects, what it was like back in the day, and the inequalities between women and men in the sport. 

More About Our Talk
  • How she trained for the Nose and other climbs
  • The significance of FFA's
  • Whether men and women should compete on the same routes at comps
  • Her weight lifting records
  • How to overcome fear and be bold like Lynn
  • Motherhood and how it changed her climbing
Lynn Hill Links Training Programs for You
Jun 14 2016
1 hour 3 mins
Play

Rank #11: TBP 088 :: How Adam Ondra Sent The World's First 9c / 5.15d

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Sep 11 2017
1 hour 5 mins
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Rank #12: TBP 061 :: Jonathan Siegrist's Minimal Training Regime and Meticulous Skin Care

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About Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist (or J-Star) is a 31-year-old professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. He grew up with his ever-psyched climbing dad, Bob Siegrist, trying to get him to love the sport as much as he did. He didn't really take to it until his late teens, though. Since then, he's become one of the world's most prolific sport climbers. To date, he's climbed four 5.15a's, sixteen 5.14d's and hundreds of other 5.14s.

He's also bouldered up to V14, sent sketchy PG-13 and R-rated trad climbs, and has sent 5.14 trad big walls. (Read his recent write-up on Arc-teryx about his ascent of Direct Dunn Westbay, a 5.14 multi-pitch route at 13,400 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park).

He's also bolted a bunch of routes of all grades in Colorado, Idaho, and beyond.

Besides all that, he's one of my best friends, and I think he's one of the most motivated, positive climbers I've ever met. Aside from being an incredible climber, his genuine gratitude for life and hunger for adventure are admirable.

Jonathan Siegrist Interview Details

In this interview with Jonathan Siegrist, we talk about how his training has evolved since our first podcast interview a couple years ago. But mostly, we talk about his attitude towards climbing, how he takes care of his skin, and what's next for him.

  • Why counting # of tries is pointless
  • His meticulous skin care
  • How to heal a split tip
  • Body weight and performance (real talk)
  • Why he doesn't fingerboard much anymore
  • Bouldering as training
Jonathan Siegrist Links Training Programs for You FrictionLabs Discount

FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Just visit www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta to get the discounts.

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  Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Sep 21 2016
1 hour 14 mins
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Rank #13: TBP 079 :: Daniel Woods on Training, Comps, Life Stuff, and The Pressure to Send

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In this interview with Daniel Woods, we talk about his training, comp climbing, his upcoming goals, and the pressure he feels to send. 

May 19 2017
1 hour 20 mins
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Rank #14: Ask Kris 006 :: Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing

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Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing

This week, in our sixth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve overall fitness for climbing. I was actually a little bit confused about what "fitness" really meant, and Kris helped me understand what it is and how to gain more of it. 

Here's what we talked about:

  • What fitness actually is
  • Specific workouts you should do to train fitness
  • How I should train for my long-ass route project
  • Who needs fitness? 
  • How a workout that has no climbing in it can improve your climbing fitness
Train Your Fitness with Kris's Programs

All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have a focus on overall fitness. He's a big advocate for creating great all-around athletes because he believes that strong people make strong climbers. 

If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program.

  Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
May 26 2016
25 mins
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Rank #15: Ask Kris 009 :: Efficient Home Training for Climbing

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Efficient Home Training for Climbing

This week, in our ninth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how you can train at home efficiently, no matter what equipment you have to work with. We go through a few scenarios, ranging from a guy Kris worked with who had only a few basic pieces of equipment, all the way up to someone who has a home wall, weights, and other equipment at home. 

He also gives you a few workouts you can do at home. 

More Details about The Talk
  • How to train with only rings and a few weights
  • How to train with a home wall
  • The optimal home set-up
  • Several workouts you can do at home
Freebie Home Workout

This is a circuit workout, so do all of the exercises below without rest, then rest as suggested below, then repeat. Regarding this workout, Kris told me, "My client in Europe did it this morning and said it's the hardest workout he's ever done," so, uh, have fun with this...

Home Wall: laps - 10 minutes without touching the ground (Jug holds for shake outs and rest every 2 or 3 minutes)

Push Jerk (Video): 40-90 lbs (depending on ability), 20 reps

Toes To Bar (Video): 20 reps

Hang Board Pull Ups : 10 reps on edge (size depends on ability)

Farmers Walk (Video) (with kettle bells or dumbbells) : 1 minute with 50-100% of bodyweight total. Take quick breaks if absolutely necessary.

Rest: 3-5 minutes Sets: 4-6

Enjoy!

Want Help With Your Training?

If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our most popular training programs written by Kris Peters.

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Jun 23 2016
20 mins
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Rank #16: TBP 009 :: Mark and Mike Anderson on Their Book, J-Star, and How Less Is More

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I'm psyched to introduce this podcast with the Anderson brothers, Mark and Mike. We did a longer-than-usual interview this time, partly because there were two of them and mostly because they have a lot of advice to give. For the uninitiated, Mark and Mike are the Rock Prodigy guys, the authors of the new book The Rock Climber's Training ManualThey're the trainers who helped J-Star turn his training methods around in order to do "Biographie" (or "Realization", 5.15a), but they also have impressive climbing resumes themselves, despite having high-stress jobs and families. 

Mike is an Aeronautical Engineer, aka robot developer. He's an officer in the US Air Force and he has 2 sons (5 and 8) with his wife and they live in Colorado. He's redpointed 5.14 sport and has done some very impressive 5.13s, including First Free Ascents of Touchstone Wall (5.13, IV), Space Shot (5.13 IV) and Thunderbird Wall (5.13 VI) in Zion, UT, and Arcturus (5.13, VI) on Yosemite’s Half Dome.

Mark (by the way, they're twins) supervises a team of computer engineers and has 2 kids with his wife, and they also live in Colorado. He's an “all-around” climber, having climbed on four continents, established numerous first ascents, freed El Cap, summited Denali, red-pointed 5.14c and on-sighted 5.13b. 

Along with their book, they also partnered with Trango to make the Rock Prodigy Training Center, a hangboard they recommend. So they're kinda the shit when it comes to training.

What We Talked About
  • How long it took Mark to get off his 5.10 plateau
  • The thing Mike eats every day to stay lean and strong
  • Both of their biggest accomplishment in climbing (they have the same one)
  • The surprising number of hours they train every week
  • How Mike trained for one of his hardest sends in Afghanistan
  • Who should be campusing and fingerboarding and who should avoid it
  • What to do when you've been falling at the same high point for 8 weeks
  • Their passionate opinion on running for climbing
  • LOTS more
Related Links
Support The Podcast
  • This podcast is made possible by the training programs on TrainingBeta here. Check 'em out if you need some help sending!
  • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen and Review on iTunes
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

Thanks for listening!

Jun 30 2014
1 hour 20 mins
Play

Rank #17: TBP 016 :: Steph Davis on Training for Alpine, Sport Climbing, Free Soloing, FFAs, and Veganism

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I got to sit down with the great Steph Davis the other day and chat about her training for climbing, her vast accomplishments, her FFAs, her free soloing exploits, her diet, her wing suit flying, and all kinds of other stuff.

About Steph Davis

I can't really do her resumé justice, so I'm just going to let her Wikipedia page do it for me.

Stephanie "Steph" Davis (born 1973) is an American rock climber, BASE jumper and wingsuit flyer. She is one of the world's leading female climbers, having completed some of the hardest routes in the world. She is the only woman to have free solo climbed a 5.11 climb, the first woman to summit all the peaks of the Fitzroy Range in Patagonia, the second woman to free climb El Capitan in a day, the first woman to free climb the Salathė Wall on El Capitan, the first woman to free solo The Diamond on Long's Peak in Colorado, and the first woman to summit Torre Egger.

Here's what we talked about:

  • How she trained for her free solo ascents on the Diamond
  • How she trained for her alpine ascents in Patagonia
  • How she trains for Rifle
  • Whether or not FFA's really matter
  • Her vegan diet
Related Links
Support The Podcast
Listen and Review on iTunes
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

 

Thanks for listening!
Feb 10 2015
1 hour 10 mins
Play

Rank #18: TBP 070 :: Josh Dreher on Losing Weight and Home Gym Training

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About Josh Dreher

Josh Dreher is, among many other things, the husband of Teal Dreher, who was my first "normal person" interview on the podcast. I wanted to do another "normal person" interview, and I thought that Josh would be the perfect follow-up to Teal. I keep putting "normal person" in quotations because Josh is actually quite strong: a V12 climber. So he's not exactly normal.

However, he's had much of his success in the past year and a half after losing about 40 pounds and training diligently in his home gym. I found out in the interview that he actually attributes at least 60% of his newfound success to losing weight. 

He's been climbing for about 15 years, and he'd done 6 V10's or harder in that time. After the serious training and the weight loss, he's done 36 V10's or harder, and 2 of those were V12's, which he'd never climbed before. 

Pretty impressive. He also has a full-time job and really only trains in his garage, so I thought we could all learn a thing or two from him. 

 

Josh Dreher Interview Details
  • Scheduling training with full-time job
  • How he lost 40 pounds
  • Why he stopped running 
  • Moon board training
  • Home gym setup
  • The workout he did right before the interview
  • How he's designed his training plan
  • Dealing with sweaty hands
Dec 22 2016
1 hour 15 mins
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Rank #19: TBP 051 :: Sean McColl Tells Us How He Trains

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About Sean McColl

This is an interview with 28 year-old Sean McColl, a well-known Canadian climber who's accomplished amazing things both outdoors and in competitions. 

I can't describe his amazing accomplishments better than he does on his website, so here's an excerpt... 

"Sean was the Canadian Youth Champion in his age group ever year from 1999-2005 having won every National Championships he attended. During his youth career, Sean claimed 5 world titles; since no other youth competitor has won more titles; this achievement is unsurpassed in youth climbing history to this day."

"Since Sean started competing on the World Cup circuit, he has won 4 events (2 in bouldering, 2 in lead) and been on the podium another 23 times. Sean has won the Overall CombinedRankings and has been 2rd and 3rd in the Lead and Boulder Overall rankings respectively."

"As an outdoor climber, Sean has onsighted 5.14a (8b+) and climbed multiple 5.14d’s (9a). On the bouldering side, Sean is one of a dozen climbers in the world to flash the grade of V13 (8B) and redpoint V15 (8C)."

He seems to only be getting stronger as he gets older. In March of this year (2016), he won the Rab CWIF, a big competition in Sheffield, England, where he beat out Ty Landman, Jimmy Webb, and Jorg Verhoeven (video).

He spends most of his year training for competitions, and only sometimes makes it outside to climb on real rock. 

Whew! Sean is a badass. We've all seen videos of his crazy training (here he is on the campus board), but I wanted to find out more details about how he trains. 

What We Talked About
  • How he trained as a kid
  • What his training cycles look like
  • Training for bouldering vs route climbing
  • Campus board, fingerboard, climbing drills
  • His schedule
  • His diet
Sean McColl Links
Apr 14 2016
56 mins
Play

Rank #20: TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on Going from 12a to 13a in 6 Months

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Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.

Apr 02 2019
1 hour 10 mins
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