Cover image of The TrainingBeta Podcast: Climbing Training Podcast
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Rank #46 in Wilderness category

Health & Fitness
Sports
Wilderness

The TrainingBeta Podcast: Climbing Training Podcast

Updated 1 day ago

Rank #46 in Wilderness category

Health & Fitness
Sports
Wilderness
Read more

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

Read more

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

iTunes Ratings

284 Ratings
Average Ratings
240
22
12
7
3

Host needs to step it up

By westieluv24 - Nov 26 2019
Read more
There are so many great guests on this podcast, but I inevitably find myself turning off each episode partway through because the host always seems unprepared and slightly uninterested. It often feels like the guests are caught off guard and that the host hasn’t done her research. Needs more energy.

Pincus Drinking

By LenChar6689 - Oct 21 2019
Read more
If you have a sip every time Pincus says totally, you will get tight! Fact

iTunes Ratings

284 Ratings
Average Ratings
240
22
12
7
3

Host needs to step it up

By westieluv24 - Nov 26 2019
Read more
There are so many great guests on this podcast, but I inevitably find myself turning off each episode partway through because the host always seems unprepared and slightly uninterested. It often feels like the guests are caught off guard and that the host hasn’t done her research. Needs more energy.

Pincus Drinking

By LenChar6689 - Oct 21 2019
Read more
If you have a sip every time Pincus says totally, you will get tight! Fact

Listen to:

Cover image of The TrainingBeta Podcast: Climbing Training Podcast

The TrainingBeta Podcast: Climbing Training Podcast

Updated 1 day ago

Read more

Hosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.

TBP 055 :: Lynn Hill (need I say more?)

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About Lynn Hill

This is an interview with Lynn Hill, who's arguably the most famous climber of all time. She was the first person to free the Nose on El Cap (5.14-), the first woman to climb 5.14a, the first woman to onsight 5.13b, and she was a fierce competitor. She has over 30+ international titles and claimed 5 victories at the Arco Rock Master. More than once, she was the only person - man or woman - to do a route at a comp.  

These days, she's a mother and an entrepreneur, and has settled down a bit. We talked about how she used to train for projects, what it was like back in the day, and the inequalities between women and men in the sport. 

More About Our Talk
  • How she trained for the Nose and other climbs
  • The significance of FFA's
  • Whether men and women should compete on the same routes at comps
  • Her weight lifting records
  • How to overcome fear and be bold like Lynn
  • Motherhood and how it changed her climbing
Lynn Hill Links Training Programs for You

Jun 14 2016

1hr 3mins

Play

TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing

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In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.

Aug 09 2018

1hr 10mins

Play

TBP 080 :: Steve Bechtel on How to Create Your Own Training Plan

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Jun 01 2017

1hr 16mins

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TBP 061 :: Jonathan Siegrist's Minimal Training Regime and Meticulous Skin Care

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About Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist (or J-Star) is a 31-year-old professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. He grew up with his ever-psyched climbing dad, Bob Siegrist, trying to get him to love the sport as much as he did. He didn't really take to it until his late teens, though. Since then, he's become one of the world's most prolific sport climbers. To date, he's climbed four 5.15a's, sixteen 5.14d's and hundreds of other 5.14s.

He's also bouldered up to V14, sent sketchy PG-13 and R-rated trad climbs, and has sent 5.14 trad big walls. (Read his recent write-up on Arc-teryx about his ascent of Direct Dunn Westbay, a 5.14 multi-pitch route at 13,400 feet in Rocky Mountain National Park).

He's also bolted a bunch of routes of all grades in Colorado, Idaho, and beyond.

Besides all that, he's one of my best friends, and I think he's one of the most motivated, positive climbers I've ever met. Aside from being an incredible climber, his genuine gratitude for life and hunger for adventure are admirable.

Jonathan Siegrist Interview Details

In this interview with Jonathan Siegrist, we talk about how his training has evolved since our first podcast interview a couple years ago. But mostly, we talk about his attitude towards climbing, how he takes care of his skin, and what's next for him.

  • Why counting # of tries is pointless
  • His meticulous skin care
  • How to heal a split tip
  • Body weight and performance (real talk)
  • Why he doesn't fingerboard much anymore
  • Bouldering as training
Jonathan Siegrist Links Training Programs for You FrictionLabs Discount

FrictionLabs (my favorite chalk company by far) is offering you a discount on their awesome chalk - woot! Just visit www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta to get the discounts.

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  Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

Sep 21 2016

1hr 14mins

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TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training

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I was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. I hope you like this interview!

About Adam Ondra

He doesn't really need much of an introduction, does he? He's debatably the strongest overall climber in the world, having the most impressive climbing resume I've ever even imagined. Here's what his Wikipedia page has to say about him.

He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering. In addition, he succeeded to win both medals in the same year, during the 2014 edition. He has also a similar record in the World Cup, being the only athlete to have won the World Cup in two disciplines, lead in 2009 and bouldering in 2010.

As of 7 December 2014, he climbed 1,162 routes between 8a (5.13b) and 9b+ (5.15c), of which 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 548 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d) and 15 onsights at 8c+ (5.14c).[1] He is the first climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c) (Change, Flatanger, 4 October 2012)[2] and the only climber to have redpointed three 9b+ (5.15c) routes.

And that's not even including his bouldering accomplishments, which include 202 boulders between V11 and V16. Jeeeeez...

Here's what we talked about:
  • How he trained to win both bouldering and route climbing world championships
  • How he used to train before he started training with Patxi
  • How he manages to go to school full time and climb 5.15c
  • The prospect of climbing 5.15d
  • His thoughts on diet and body weight
Related Links
  • Adam isn't online of his own accord (he's a little busy), but www.adamondra.com is a fan page that someone else made for him...
Support The Podcast
Listen and Review on iTunes
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

Photo

Photo credit goes to Dario Rodriguez of Desnivel.com

Thanks for listening!

Feb 18 2015

1hr 11mins

Play

TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson

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I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.

Oct 02 2019

1hr 7mins

Play

TBP 063 :: The Anderson Brothers' Evolving Training Philosophies and New Research

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About The Anderson Brothers

For the uninitiated, Mark and Mike are the Rock Prodigy guys, the authors of the very popular book, The Rock Climber’s Training Manual, all about the training methods they’ve developed over the last two decades. They’re the trainers who helped J-Star turn his training methods around in order to do “Biographie” (or “Realization”, 5.15a) and many other hard climbs. But they also have impressive climbing résumés themselves, despite having high-stress jobs and families.

Mike is 39 years old and is an Aeronautical Engineer, aka robot developer. He’s an officer in the US Air Force and he has 2 young sons with his wife in Colorado. He’s redpointed 5.14c sport and onsighted 5.13d, and has done some very impressive 5.13s, including First Free Ascents of Touchstone Wall (5.13, IV), Space Shot (5.13 IV) and Thunderbird Wall (5.13 VI) in Zion, UT, and Arcturus (5.13, VI) on Yosemite’s Half Dome.

Mark, also 39, (by the way, they’re twins) supervises a team of computer engineers and has 2 kids with his wife, and they also live in Colorado. He’s an “all-around” climber, having climbed on four continents, established numerous first ascents, freed El Cap, summited Denali, red-pointed 5.14d.

Along with their book, Mark and Mike Anderson also partnered with Trango to make the Rock Prodigy Training Center, a hangboard they recommend. They now have a new hangboard, the Forge, which they say is the Ferrari of hangboards. So they’re kinda the shit when it comes to training.

Anderson Brothers Interview Details

In this second interview with both of the twins, Mark and Mike Anderson, we talk about what they've been sending since last time we talked, how their training philosophies have changed, and the academic research they've been doing on climbing training. 

  • Mark's send of Shadowboxing (5.14d)
  • Mike's crushing spree (5.14c's and onsight of 5.13d)
  • Mike's research on finger training
  • How Mark trained specifically for Shadowboxing
  • Linear vs Non-Linear Periodization
  • How much weight to add on hangboard
  • Training and sending while having a job and family
Anderson Brothers Links

Oct 14 2016

1hr 6mins

Play

TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months

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Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.

Mar 26 2019

1hr 10mins

Play

TBP 021:: Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight, and Crowdfunding

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About Alex Puccio

Alex "The Pucc" Puccio is the strongest female American boulderer, and the most accomplished female American bouldering competitor. She's won ABS Nationals 9 times, and has medaled 13 times in Bouldering World Cup events since 2009. Her goal this year is to be the overall IFSC World Cup Bouldering champ and to climb V15.

She was the 4th woman to climb V14 (Jade and then Wheel of Chaos in Rocky Mountain), she's climbed 7 V13's, and she's done all of this in the past year. Naturally, I wanted to know how she went from climbing V12 to crushing V14 in such a short amount of time, so we talked all about how her training, diet, and mental game have changed recently.

What We Talked About
  • Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis
  • Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game
  • Why she doesn't have enough sponsor money, and what she's doing about it
  • How she lost weight, and whether or not she's anorexic
  • What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs
  • Lots more - she's very honest and open
Links We Mentioned
Discount on The Best Chalk Ever

Alex Puccio loves FrictionLabs chalk, and so do we. This chalk really does make a difference - it's no joke. Go to www.frictionlabs.com/trainingbeta for a special discount to try it out for yourself.

Training Programs for You
Please Review Us on iTunes!
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

Thanks for listening!

May 20 2015

1hr 23mins

Play

TBP 088 :: How Adam Ondra Sent The World's First 9c / 5.15d

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Sep 11 2017

1hr 5mins

Play

Ask Matt :: Comparing Finger Training Protocols

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This is a mini version of the TrainingBeta Podcast, where I talk with trainer, Matt Pincus, for just 20 minutes. He compares the various finger training protocols out there and helps you figure out what protocol is best for your climbing goals, and the 3 main things you should be focused on, no matter what protocol you're using.

Mar 07 2018

22mins

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TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello

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I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.

Sep 09 2019

1hr 22mins

Play

TBP 079 :: Daniel Woods on Training, Comps, Life Stuff, and The Pressure to Send

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In this interview with Daniel Woods, we talk about his training, comp climbing, his upcoming goals, and the pressure he feels to send. 

May 19 2017

1hr 20mins

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TBP 070 :: Josh Dreher on Losing Weight and Home Gym Training

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About Josh Dreher

Josh Dreher is, among many other things, the husband of Teal Dreher, who was my first "normal person" interview on the podcast. I wanted to do another "normal person" interview, and I thought that Josh would be the perfect follow-up to Teal. I keep putting "normal person" in quotations because Josh is actually quite strong: a V12 climber. So he's not exactly normal.

However, he's had much of his success in the past year and a half after losing about 40 pounds and training diligently in his home gym. I found out in the interview that he actually attributes at least 60% of his newfound success to losing weight. 

He's been climbing for about 15 years, and he'd done 6 V10's or harder in that time. After the serious training and the weight loss, he's done 36 V10's or harder, and 2 of those were V12's, which he'd never climbed before. 

Pretty impressive. He also has a full-time job and really only trains in his garage, so I thought we could all learn a thing or two from him. 

 

Josh Dreher Interview Details
  • Scheduling training with full-time job
  • How he lost 40 pounds
  • Why he stopped running 
  • Moon board training
  • Home gym setup
  • The workout he did right before the interview
  • How he's designed his training plan
  • Dealing with sweaty hands

Dec 22 2016

1hr 15mins

Play

TBP 007 :: Steve Bechtel on Training, Power Endurance, Running, Weight Loss, and More

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I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel, a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, honing in on individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website where he writes articles and training programs for climbers. You can subscribe to the site to get full access to all of his info. He also runs a gym in Lander, WY called Elemental Fitness, where he works with climbers and athletes of all kinds.

I've been following Steve's stuff for a while, and I post his articles on our own Facebook page because I consider him an expert in a field that has very few experts (climbing training). But I wanted to interview him partially for selfish reasons - I'll be honest ;) We took a few minutes of the interview to use me as sort of a guinea pig. I asked him what he'd do with me right now while I'm trying to send a powerful, pretty short route at my limit. He gave me some great advice.

I also asked him as many other technical questions as I could, and tried to make those questions applicable to as many people as possible, so you can take some usable advice from this conversation. After all, that's the mission of TrainingBeta: practical training advice. Steve has worked with a lot of climbers through the years, so he doesn't have any problems rattling off big scientific words and answers to all of our common climbing training questions. Hopefully we'll talk again on the show soon!

What We Talked About
  • How and why he learned so much about training
  • How he approaches new training clients
  • How to train power endurance and overall fitness
  • What he'd do with me as a client to help me send my current project
  • Whether or not running is good for climbing
  • How to lose weight for climbing
  • That our conversation was really awesome and we want to do it again soon
Related Links
Support The Podcast
  • This podcast is made possible by the training programs on TrainingBeta here. Check 'em out if you need some help sending!
  • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.
Listen on iTunes
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
Music

Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

Photo

Portrait of Steve Bechtel by Mei Ratz

Thanks for listening!

May 19 2014

51mins

Play

TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA's, Her Weight, and Nutrition

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In this interview, I talk with pro climber Sasha DiGiulian about her current training regime, how her goals have changed over the years, what significance she puts on FFA's, and how her body weight has affected her climbing and people's opinions of her.

Mar 21 2018

1hr 7mins

Play

TBP 036 :: Steve Bechtel Interview #2

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About Steve Bechtel

I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel for a second time. Steve is a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, catering to individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website where he writes articles and training programs for climbers. You can subscribe to the site to get full access to all of his info. He also runs a gym in Lander, WY called Elemental Fitness, where he works with climbers and athletes of all kinds.

What We Talked About
  • What makes a good climbing trainer
  • Confusion about periodization
  • Confusion about finger training
  • Repeaters vs. Eva Lopez training
  • Climbing as training for climbing
  • Listener questions
Related Links Training Programs for You

Nov 25 2015

1hr 13mins

Play

Ask Kris 005 :: Improving Core Strength for Climbing

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Improving Core Strength for Climbing

This week, in our fifth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve core strength for climbing. Having just spent last week in Rifle on my project, I realized that I need to gain a lot of core strength myself, so I loved this episode. 

Here's what we talked about:

  • What our "core" actually is
  • What exercises you should do to train core strength
  • How I should train for my core-intensive kneebar crux
  • Why we don't train core with low reps/high weights
  • How to train your lower back to avoid injury
Train Your Core with Kris's Programs

All of the programs that Kris wrote for trainingbeta.com have a focus on core stability and strength.

If you want 3 complete workouts every week to get you stronger and help you stay injury free, check out our bouldering training program or our route training program.

Freebie Core Workout

Do all of the exercises below without stopping, except for the noted rest times. 

TRX Pikes (Video):

  • Reps: 25
  • Rest: 10 seconds

TRX Saws (Video):

  • Reps: 25 
  • Rest: 10 seconds

AB Hip Raises (Video):

  • 25 reps 
  • Rest: 10 seconds

TRX Planks (Video):

  • 1 minute
  • Sets: 2-4
  • Rest: 1-2 minutes between sets

Toes to bar

  • Reps: 15
  • Sets: 4
  • Rest: 1 minute between sets

Ab Roller

  • Reps: 20
  • Sets: 4
  • Rest: 45 seconds between sets

V-Ups (Video)

  • 25 v-ups
  • Sets: 4
  • Rest: 90 seconds between sets

All done - nice work! 

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes!
  • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)

May 16 2016

23mins

Play

TBP 039 :: Dave MacLeod on Training, Injuries, Diet, and Fear

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About Dave MacLeod

Dave MacLeod is one of the most famous climbers, having put up many first ascents of sport, boulder, mixed, and trad climbs. Honestly, I'm not going to do him justice with a short introduction of his climbing and career, as he's accomplished so much in his 37 years. So here's his Wikipedia page. Please read it - it's fascinating. 

What We Talked About
  • His climbing career
  • How he's trained for different projects
  • How mixed climbing helps him to train for sport and trad 
  • The mistakes most climbers make in their training
  • Excelling even when the pressure is on
  • How he deals with fear on scary routes
  • His secret diet (exposed! woohoo!)
Related Links
Training Programs for You

Dec 31 2015

1hr 17mins

Play

TBP 060 :: Sam Elias on Taming His Emotions to Climb Harder

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About Sam Elias

One of my first memories of Sam Elias was this: he was climbing on The Crew (14c) in Rifle, and he'd skipped 3 clips in a row on the top half. He was climbing to the death, screaming with every move, and then he fell and came dangerously close to being impaled by a tree right below the route. That tree has since been removed, and Sam has since sent the route.

I think that scene personifies Sam Elias: He tries really fucking hard, he's ballsy, he's intense, and he sends hard rock climbs. When I came to know Sam a little better, I found while he's all of those things, he's also sensitive, introspective, and intelligent. 

He recently did the Black Diamond training bootcamp with Dan Mirsky and Joe Kinder, being coached for several 3-week stints by Kris Peters and Justen Sjong. Since those training sessions, Sam has been climbing better than ever, sending routes quickly that he'd put years of work into prior to training. 

He's sent up to 5.14c sport climbs, he's a competitive ice and mixed climber, and he summited Mount Everest, so he's an all-around excellent athlete. 

Sam Elias Interview Details

In this interview, we talk about what sets him apart as an athlete, how his emotions sometimes have gotten the best of him (as many of us can relate with), and what he's done in the past couple years to calm his anger and anxiety so that he can be a happier person and a better climber. We also talk about how he trained with Kris and Justen and what he's been doing to train since then. 

  • Working with a sports psychologist
  • "Flow state" climbing
  • Work/climbing balance
  • Success after BD Bootcamp
  • Diet

 

Sam Elias Links Training Programs for You

Sep 12 2016

1hr 11mins

Play

TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods

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Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.

Dec 05 2019

1hr 15mins

Play

Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues

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Marina Inoue talks about specific training for shorties, why she loves living in her van, and some body image issues that a lot of people can relate with.

Nov 27 2019

1hr 8mins

Play

TBP 137: Kris Hampton - 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing

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I talk with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing about the most important movement drills he uses in his own climbing and with his clients.

Nov 22 2019

1hr 14mins

Play

TBP 136 :: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt Pincus

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Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.

Oct 30 2019

1hr 40mins

Play

TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother

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Rachel Briggs tells us how her climbing's improved while raising 2 young children, and how she navigates the physical & emotional challenges of motherhood.

Oct 24 2019

1hr 20mins

Play

TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting

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I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.

Oct 17 2019

1hr 9mins

Play

TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson

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I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.

Oct 02 2019

1hr 7mins

Play

TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello

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I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.

Sep 09 2019

1hr 22mins

Play

TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More

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I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.

Aug 23 2019

1hr 10mins

Play

TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries

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In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.

Aug 12 2019

1hr 22mins

Play

TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics

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I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.

Jul 24 2019

1hr 27mins

Play

TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons

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I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.

Jun 28 2019

1hr 7mins

Play

TBP 127: Sierra Blair Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity

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Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.

Jun 12 2019

1hr 11mins

Play

TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau

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Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.

May 29 2019

1hr 12mins

Play

TBP 125: Jonathan Siegrist's Prep and Process for Planta de Shiva 5.15b

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I talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.

May 15 2019

1hr 14mins

Play

TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on Going from 12a to 13a in 6 Months

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Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.

Apr 02 2019

1hr 10mins

Play

TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months

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Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.

Mar 26 2019

1hr 10mins

Play

TBP 122 :: The Access Fund - How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better

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In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.

Mar 18 2019

1hr 14mins

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TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Prioritizing and Taking Action to Reach Goals

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In this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your life goals and identify the actions you need to take to be successful.

Feb 27 2019

1hr 15mins

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TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Overcame Fear to Send Her First 5.12a

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In this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.

Feb 05 2019

1hr 1min

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