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WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

WARDROBE CRISIS is a fashion podcast about sustainability, ethical fashion and making a difference in the world. Host Clare Press was the first VOGUE sustainability editor, and each week she interviews international guests about the big issues facing the fashion industry. Get to know their personal stories, and be part of the change.

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How to Make Denim Circular with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's Francois Souchet

Denim is ubiquitous. Almost 2 billion pairs of jeans were sold around the world in 2017. That's a lot of jeans. It’s also a lot of jeans waste.  According to The New Textiles Economy report, less than 1% of used clothing is recycled into new clothing. We’re landfilling and incinerating more while at the same time decreasing clothing use over time. The new Jeans Redesign Guidelines from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation seek to solve this. Can they get everyone on board?  Enjoying the show? Let us know via www.clarepress.com Find Clare on Instagram and Twitter @mrspress Thank you for listening. Don't forget to hit subscribe!See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

41mins

17 Jul 2019

Rank #1

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Timo Rissanen – Design Can Save Us

Timo Rissanen is Assistant Professor of Fashion Design and Sustainability at Parsons The New School for Design, New York. He’s an expert in zero-waste fashion design, as well as a cross-stitch artist currently stitching a letter to humanity to be read 100 years from now. Oh, and he's a birdwatcher… Timo teaches his students to rethink traditional ways of approaching design to consider the entire lifecycle of a garment, and factor in reducing waste from the outset. But it’s not just about cutting waste from initial design...Of approximately 80 billion garments produced every year, about 1/3 are sold full price, 1/3 on sale, and 1/3 are never sold. Much of this surplus is destroyed. In this Episode, Timo argues that we must conquer our cynicism and use our creativity to find solutions. The fashion industry, which he describes a ‘seemingly grotesque, wasteful, deadly’, is also a source of endless possibility. The WARDROBE CRISIS show notes unpack the issues addressed in each Episode. Way more than just links, it's like a mini magazine!  Head over to www.clarepress.com/ to read yours and #bethechange Music is by Montaigne www.montaignemusic.com.au/ Finally, if you enjoyed the show, we’d love you to leave a review on iTunes.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

46mins

16 Jun 2017

Rank #2

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The Eco Awesomeness of Allbirds - Sustainable Shoes for Changemakers

Obsessed with Allbirds? Join the club. For the last Episode of Series 3, Clare visits the San Francisco HQ of the hottest comfy shoe brand on the planet, and unpicks what makes it work. On the way, she discovers the secrets of algae as an eco ingredient, asks the hard questions about end-of-life and greenwashing, and decodes the complexity of carbon offsetting. Oh, and sits next to Matthew McConaughey on the plane… Alright, alright, alright! “Phenomenal for customers, and also phenomenal for the planet… that’s a big idea,” says Joey Zwillinger. But what does it look like in practice? How hard was it to make it happen?And where did they fall short? Hear how Joey and co-founder Tim Brown set out to shake up the way sneakers get made and marketed, took on the big guys and won, and where their future challenges lie.  Now, that's a wrap for Series 3 - we're off to the beach. The perfect time to catch up on our monster back catalogue! Get ready for Series 4 - launches February. THANK YOU FOR LISTENING, CHANGEMAKERS!See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

48mins

19 Dec 2019

Rank #3

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Cradle to Cradle's William McDonough - Fashion is a Verb

Meet legendary thinker, innovator, disruptor and Cradle to Cradle hero, William McDonough. Architect, designer, thought leader, and author – his vision for a future of abundance for all is helping companies and communities think differently. He was the inaugural chair of the World Economic Forum’s Meta-Council on the Circular Economy and currently serves on the Forum’s Global Future Council on the Future of Environment and Natural Resource Security. For more than 40 years, he has defined the principles of the sustainability movement. This interview is a must for anyone who is interested in the circular economy, or indeed just cares about the future of our planet.  We discuss why we should we view waste as a resource, and how we can transition to doing that. We talk about sustainable development, about look at how we measure society’s success now, and how we might change that in future. As Bill and his co-writer Michael Braungart write in Cradle to Cradle, “In the race for economic progress, social activity, ecological impact, cultural activity, and long-term effects can be overlooked.” We also dig into emptiness vs. abundance. Unpick the idea of fashion as a verb. Look at how weaving and mathematics are linked. And talk about clothes and Diana Vreeland, beauty and the impotrtance of language. Bill can talk about any subject in a completely delightful way. Buckle up for a wild conversational ride. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

50mins

13 Oct 2018

Rank #4

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Livia Firth, Eco-Age & the Green Carpet

Livia Firth is the Creative Director of sustainability consultancy Eco-Age, and the founder of the Green Carpet Challenge and Green Carpet Fashion Awards. She is a UN Leader of Change, a founding member of Annie Lennox’s women’s advocacy group The Circle, and was a co-producer on Andrew Morgan’s ethical fashion documentary, The True Cost. Livia is also a warm and wonderful advocate for ethical and sustainable fashion, and an absolute treat to interview. We are so grateful to Livia for kicking off this, our brand sparkling new series 3 of the Wardrobe Crisis podcast! In Episode, Clare and Livia discuss what it means to be a fashion activist, and why the world needs more of us (yes, including you!). We cover the big stuff - garment worker dignity, living wages, social justice - and the glitzy stuff - influencers, social media and the power of fashion to change stories. Livia shares about her childhood growing up in Italy in a pre-fast fashion world, being “a ballbreaker” and starting a business with her brother. She reveals how her eco fashion quest began: when her husband Colin Firth was up for a Best Actor Oscar for his role in the Tom Ford movie A Single Man - dressing “eco” gave her a role to play. And she explains how that first challenge grew and flowered into something truly extraordinary that has seen Eco-Age become one of the biggest players in sustainable fashion. Want to change fashion for the better? This Episode is full of inspiration. Don't miss our shownotes for links and further reading. Follow Clare on Instagram and Twitter, and join the conversation. THANK YOU FOR LISTENING!See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

48mins

5 Feb 2019

Rank #5

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Claire Bergkamp - Stella McCartney's Secret Sustainability Weapon

You know it: Stella McCartney does the eco things first. Whether it’s making all things green super-cool, proving non-leather accessories can compete with traditional animal leather in the luxury market, or bringing the circular fashion conversation mainstream, this fashion brand leads the way. So who makes all this happen? There’s McCartney herself, of course - the designer is a visionary greenie. But no woman is an island. Claire Bergkamp has her back. Meet Stella McCartney’s Worldwide Sustainability & Innovation Director. A self-confessed fibre nut, Claire started out as a costume designer in LA before switching lanes to study sustainability in London. There, she found her calling. Six years ago Claire joined the Stella McCartney brand to head up sustainability; she was a team of one. Today she runs a team based in London and Italy. Her work is disruptive and tend-setting - from rethinking traditional supply chains to working with startups on new circular materials, Claire is changing the way fashion is produced. And she’s lovely too. Notebooks at the ready, there’s so much to learn in this Episode. Don't forget to subscribe to this podcast in iTunes, and join the conversation on social media. You can find Clare on Instagram and Twitter. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

52mins

12 Mar 2019

Rank #6

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Christina Dean - Fighting Fashion Waste

‘Single-use’ was named the Word of the Year for 2018 by the Collins Dictionary. Now that we know the oceans are choking with plastics, disposable has become a dirty word. We also know, there is no away. Nothing that uses synthetic materials is ‘disposable’ – it has to go somewhere. Out of site, out of mind is a total copout. But what about so-called "disposable fashion"? Single-use fashion is perhaps a stretch – but we’re not a million miles away. Clothing usability is declining. Stats vary, but according the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the average number of times a garment is worn before it ceases to be used has decreased by 36% compared to 15 years ago. In the US clothes are worn for around a quarter of the global average. The same pattern is emerging in China, where clothing utilisation has decreased by 70% over the last 15 years ago. Do you know how much fashion we throw away? Clothing production about doubled during that time; we now produce around 100 billion garments a year. Of the total fibre input used, 87% ends up landfilled or incinerated. Why have we become so wasteful and how can we turn it around? This week’s guest thinks we need to reconnect with fashion's soul. She is Christina Dean, fashionwaste warrior and the founder of Redress, a Hong Kong-based NGO that works to reduce fashion waste. A former journalist, Christina is also the co-author of Dress [with] Sense (a consumer guide for the conscious closet), and the hosts of documentary series, Frontline Fashion.  Our shownotes are packed with links and extra information.  THANK YOU FOR LISTENING. Love the podcast? We have a Patreon page - every little bit helps us keep telling these stories. We are always grateful for ratings and reviews on iTunes. Don't forget to hit subscribe. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

43mins

27 Nov 2018

Rank #7

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Easton Pearson - Slow Fashion in a Fast Fashion World

What was it like to pioneer ethical fashion before that was even a phrase? For 27 years, Pamela Easton and Lydia Pearson ran the iconic Australian fashion label Easton Pearson, known for its exquisite artisanal fabrics and embellishments, colourful exuberance and sense of fun. They are the subjects of a new exhibition at the Museum of Brisbane, The Designers’ Guide: Easton Pearson Archive - an invaluable resource for fashion students and fashion fans. It’s also an important contribution to Australia’s cultural history, which fashion absolutely should be considered a part of. You could win free tickets - check Clare's Instagram for details. In this interview, we discuss why this Aussie icon, that sold at Browns in London and Bergdorf’s in New York, was such a big deal. Pam and Lydia decode their design and making processes, and detail how they started out on the business of fashion, and kept at it for so long. We talk about how they pioneered and centred slow fashion and ethical production in the Australian context, and also in India, where their main workshop was located. We also have a frank discussion about the challenges of running an independent, slow fashion business in a fast fashion world. Our shownotes are packed with links and extra information.  THANK YOU FOR LISTENING. Love the podcast? We have a Patreon page - every little bit helps us keep telling these stories. We are always grateful for ratings and reviews on iTunes. Don't forget to hit subscribe. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

39mins

20 Nov 2018

Rank #8

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What Will it Take to Fix Unsustainable Fashion? British MP Mary Creagh

Why do we need to "fix" fashion? Try because textile production contributes more to climate change than international aviation and shipping combined and consumes lake-sized volumes of fresh water. If current consumption levels continue the industry could account for 25% of the world's carbon budget. Because our wardrobes are full of clothes we don't wear, yet we keep buying more and more garments, most of which are made from polyester and shed tiny plastic microfibres every time we wash them. Because we buy fashion to throw it away. This week’s guest is Mary Creagh, chair of the UK Parliament’s Environmental Audit Committee (EAC) and the Labour MP for Wakefield - the woman responsible for raising all these things with the British parliament this year. But this is not just relevant in the UK because the EAC’s report, Fixing Fashion, made headlines globally when it was published in this year. In this frank insider conversation, we discuss the power of the shopping detox, how Brits got to the point where they’re consuming - and disposing of - twice as many clothes as the Italians and Germans, and just what we ought to be doing about it. Oh and we talk about cycling too. Come join us. Don't forget to hit subscribe! See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

51mins

16 Oct 2019

Rank #9

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Safia Minney, Fair Trade Fabulous

CHECK OUT OUR SHOWNOTES for masses of extra goodness. If only all fashion was fair trade fashion. According to the Global Slavery Index 2018, fashion is one of 5 key industries implicated in modern slavery. In Australia, every year we import over $US4 billion worth of clothes and accessories at risk of being tainted by modern slavery. 40 million people globally are trapped in it, and 71 % are women. In this Episode, we hear from ethical fashion pioneer Safia Minney. The founder of People Tree is now heading up fair trade shoe brand Po-zu. She appears in The True Cost. She's an MBE, an activist, and has spoken more than once at the World Economic Forum's meetings in Davos. Safia is the author of 4 books, including her latest Slave to Fashion.  Slave-free fashion is achievable, says Safia. Indeed fashion can be used to empower workers. We discuss how, the challenges and joys of working this way, how she started out - way before ethical fashion was *a thing and what makes her heart sing these days. This episode is brought to you by makers of excellet fair trade totes and tees, Liminal Apparel. Find Safia on social media here Chat with Clare on Instagram and Twitter @mrspress THANK YOU FOR LISTENING. Love the podcast? We have a Patreon page - every little helps! We are always grateful for ratings and reviews on iTunes. You can find us on Spotify now too. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

43mins

4 Sep 2018

Rank #10

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Anna Gedda on H&M's Sustainability Goals & Challenges

Can fast fashion ever be sustainable? Will circularity funadamentally change things? Or is it, practically speaking, too far off? How about supply chain transparency, collaboration and pumping resources into textile innovation? Is all this eclipsed by the shadow of overproduction? Swedish giant H&M is the second biggest clothing company in the world (the first is Zara.) The H&M Group comprises the H&M brand, but also COS, & Other Stories, jeans brand Cheap Monday, hyper-transparent newcomer Arket and a couple of others. Clare caught up with Anna Gedda, Head of Sustainability at the H&M Group since 2015, at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit to ask about the company’s approach to sustainability across its brands.  Follow Clare on Instagram and Twitter @mrspress Love the podcast? We have a Patreon page - every little helps! We are always grateful for ratings and reviews on iTunes. You can find us on Spotify now too.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

31mins

12 Jul 2018

Rank #11

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Patagonia's Director of Philosophy Vincent Stanley, Talking The Big Stuff

Vincent Stanley is Patagonia’s Director of Philosophy. (Yes, that's a thing). He has been with the outdoor gear company since 1973, when his uncle, Yvon Chouinard, gave him a job as a kid out of college.  Vincent is a deep thinker and passionate environmentalist, and a visiting fellow at the Yale School of Management. He's also a poet, whose work has appeared in Best American Poetry. With Yvon, he co-wrote the book THE RESPONSIBLE COMPANY, which is like a handbook for building a more sustainable business. Oh and hello! This is the guy who wrote the first copy for The Footprint Chronicles -  Patagonia’s game-changing supply chain mapper -  and along with Rick Ridgeway, worked on the much-talked-about "Don’t Buy This Jacket" campaign that Patagonia ran in the New York Times in 2011.  This Episode is about the big, important issues facing our planet, and business, today: We discuss what’s happening to our soils, loss of biodiversity, climate change, ocean acidification and water pollution, and the problems with over-consumption, population growth and the role of business in this challenging new world. But don't you worry, it's also fun. And awesome. And SUPER INSPIRING. Buckle up, this is a wild, challenging, and thought-provoking journey, and you're invited. Are you ready? DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW CLARE ON INSTAGRAM FOR ALL THE WARDROBE CRISIS NEWS! Our incredible music is by Montaigne  - it's an acoustic version of Because I Love You from ther album Glorious Heights. Like what you hear? Please review us in iTunes, and share on social media. Also, we're excited to announce our new Patreon page. We're so grateful to our supporters - welcome to the Wardrobe Crisis family. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

57mins

7 Nov 2017

Rank #12

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Tim Silverwood, Beating Plastic Pollution

"Change isn’t going to be easy, but there’s no time to procrastinate or hope someone else is going to fix it…it’s time to do something. YOU are the person you’ve been waiting for." — Tim Silverwood. Meet Tim Silverwood CEO of Take 3 for the Sea. Tim is an Australian environmentalist, surfer and plastic pollution campaigner. In Australia, you might have seen him on War on Waste, or if you have kids (or if you are one) you might have seen him at your school. He’s given hundreds of talks to schools, communities and businesses on the ocean plastics issue. This episode is all about what we can do to turn it around. Be warned: it's highly motivating! Our interview was recorded live at the Sustainable Living Festival in Melbourne.  Thank you to the Australian documentary Blue for supporting this Episode. Follow Clare on Instagram and Twitter @mrspress Love the podcast? We have a Patreon page - every little helps! We are always grateful for ratings and reviews on iTunes. You can find us on Spotify now too.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

50mins

3 Jul 2018

Rank #13

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Sass Brown - Clothing Ethics

Is sustainable fashion elitist? Does fashion contribute to poor body image and eating disorders by perpetuating a single, unattainable beauty ideal? What can we do about fashion's diversity problem? How do we, as consumers of fashion, navigate all this? "You can’t do it all at the moment,” says this week's guest. “You have to make choices based on your values and those are your personal ethics.” Sass Brown is an English designer, educator and the author of Eco Fashion. For many years, Sass taught at FIT in New York. She was the Founding Dean of the Dubai Institute of Design and Innovation (DIDI). She has purple hair, is a dedicated thrifter and has her shoes made by hand. But actually, this is not an interview about a life in fashion... In this conversation, we focus on how fashion shapes our collective image, and how and why we allow it to dictate culture, and often get it so wrong. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

43mins

27 Mar 2019

Rank #14

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Green Architect Jason McLennan on Biophilic Design & the Living Building Challenge

What if our buildings weren't just a little bit more energy efficient or decorated with a few extra plants? What if they gave back to the environment instead of taking away from it? Biophilic design is a buzz word, and we're on board! Meet the visionary Canadian architect Jason McLennan, founder of the Living Building Challenge and the Living Future Institute. This Episode is all about how we can not just green our built environment but totally rethink it so that it’s regenerative, and provides havens for other species too. How might we truly live in harmony with nature? And as Jason puts it: “Create places that are not only lovely but express the love we have for people, for animals and for the environment.” Oh, and seriously, we need to fix the toilets! Happy listening!See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

45mins

20 Nov 2019

Rank #15

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Tamsin Lejeune, Access over Ownership & Common Objective

Don't miss our SHOWNOTES - they're a veritable cornucopia of extra info... Sometimes it can feel like sustainable fashion is a new thing, but pioneers laid the groundwork years ago. People like this week’s guest, British fashion change-maker Tamsin Lejeune. Back in 2006, Tamsin founded the Ethical Fashion Forum, a London-based industry body for sustainable fashion. Her team also brought us Source, one of the first platforms to list sustainable resources & suppliers in one place. In the UK, it was Tamsin & her team who were running the sustainable fashion panel discussions and bringing the fledgling ethical fashion community together. How much has changed since then? How far off is sustainable fashion from being the norm? What tools do we need TO DO FASHION BETTER? Today, Tamsin leads a new project called Common Objective with that in mind. Think, a sustainable fashion matchmaking service, like a targeted Linkedin, or Tinder without the romance. In this absorbing interview we discuss what’s going on with fast fashion and why the model is broken. We decode the discomfort we feel when fast fashion giants launch eco capsule collections while still making most of their stuff the same old way. And we delve into the magic powers of fashion access over ownership, and the opportunities for the next generation of designers. Chat with Clare on Instagram and Twitter @mrspress THANK YOU FOR LISTENING. Love the podcast? We have a Patreon page - every little helps! We are always grateful for ratings and reviews on iTunes. Don't forget to hit subscribe. You can find us on Spotify now too.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

48mins

20 Sep 2018

Rank #16

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Supermodel Lily Cole on the Bcorps & Purpose

Lily Cole rose to fame as a model. She was the youngest model to appear on the cover of British Vogue, and was listed by French Vogue as one of the top 30 models of the 2000s. Her pictures, shot by some of photography's greatest names (think Tim Walker, Nick Knight, Steven Meisel) are some of the most memorable in the business, but these days Lily has other fish to fry. An environmental advocate, actor, writer and filmmaker, she is also a social entrepreneur. She is the founder of Impossible.com, a B Corp that uses technology to solve social and environmental problems. It began as a platform for the gift economy and today, she says, is focused on "trying to use tech in a positive way, and doing that through collaborations." In this lovely and intriguing Episode, we discuss Lily's love for nature and the ways in which that informs the work she does today. We talk climate change and the power of positive messaging. We get into frameworks for business with puropse, the need to rethink how we measure success and encouraging more women to enter the tech world. And fashion, natch. Don't you worry, we talk about that. Follow Clare on Instagram and Twitter @mrspress Love the podcast? We have a Patreon page if you'd like to support us. We are always grateful for ratings and reviews on iTunes - it helps new listeners to find us. You can find us on Spotify now too.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

41mins

27 Jun 2018

Rank #17

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StyleLikeU’s Elisa Goodkind – Disentangling style from Fashion

Hands up who’s over the narrow view of beauty peddled by mainstream fashion brands and media! Elisa Goodkind wants us to take back our power from magazines, advertising and the money-driven global fashion business, so that getting dressed each day becomes an act of self-love.  With their platform StyleLikeU New Yorkers Elisa and her daughter Lily Mandelbaum are breaking down the fake stereotypes about what’s beautiful, and what’s supposedly not.  They’ve published a new booked called True Style is What's Underneath: The Self-Acceptance Revolution. They take their message on the road, holding open castings and talks around the world. And they make intimate documentary-style video portraits that “explore how style is not about trends, money or presenting a façade of photoshopped perfection”. No wonder these videos have gone viral – with over 35 million views. What comes across more than anything when you watch them is how we are all the same in our difference. The WARDROBE CRISIS show notes unpack the issues addressed in each Episode. Way more than just links, it's like a mini magazine!  Head over to www.clarepress.com/ to read yours and #bethechange Music is by Montaigne http://www.montaignemusic.com.au/ Enjoying the show? Please leave a review in iTunes. It helps other people find us. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

32mins

1 Aug 2017

Rank #18

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Baroness Lola Young on Modern Slavery in Fashion

CHECK OUT OUR SHOWNOTES for masses of extra goodness. According to the Global Slavery Index 2018, fashion is one of 5 key industries implicated in modern slavery. How does that happen? What can we do about it? In this Episode, you're going to meet Baroness Lola Young of Hornsey, a British crossbench peer in the House of Lords who is active in the ethical fashion space and is working to amend the UK's Modern Slavery Act. Modern slavery is, of course, a depressing issue but this episode is not depressing. No, no. It's got the power! It’s all about unleashing your inner activist, understanding the issues and taking positive steps to do something about them - if you’re an individual, they can be really small steps. If you’re in business, they might be bigger ones. Don't forget to check the shownotes for further reading. Lola Young started out as an actor, went onto become a professor of cultural studies then the Head of Culture at the Greater London Authority. She’s been a judge for the Orange Prize for Literature, and The Observer newspaper’s Ethical Awards. In 2004 she was appointed an independent Crossbench member of the House of Lords. In 2009 she set up the All Party Parliamentary Group on Ethics and Sustainability in Fashion, which she co-chairs.  Lola Young is fabulous. What do you think about all this? Please get in touch with Clare on Instagram and Twitter @mrspress to let us know. Don't forget to check the shownotes for further resources. THANK YOU FOR LISTENING. Love the podcast? We have a Patreon page - every little helps! We are always grateful for ratings and reviews on iTunes. You can find us on Spotify now too. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

58mins

29 Aug 2018

Rank #19

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Fashion Designers! Vegan Chefs! Gung-Ho & Women Leading the Sustainable Food Movement

Have you ever thought about the water footprint of beef or olive oil? Or how far your food has travelled before it reaches your dinner plate? And what has all this god to do with fashion?  Meet Gung-Ho designer Sophie Dunster, food writer and photographer Sara Kiyo Popowa, and chefs Lauren Lovatt and Abi Aspen Glencross. Whether they’re vegan or just very excited about colourful vegetables; sure that what we eat can affect our mental health or just really keen on yummy food that doesn’t cost the Earth - these four female foodies are combining fashion with activism to put change on the menu. Bon appetit! THANK YOU for listening. Looking for links and extra info? Find detailed shownotes here. Get in touch on Instagram and Twitter See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

52mins

7 Nov 2019

Rank #20