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Good Food on the Road

Updated 6 days ago

Arts
Food
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KCRW’s Good Food host Evan Kleiman talks with Pulitzer Prize-winning food writer, the late and great Jonathan Gold of The Los Angeles Times about places you may not have tried yet, but ought to.

Read more

KCRW’s Good Food host Evan Kleiman talks with Pulitzer Prize-winning food writer, the late and great Jonathan Gold of The Los Angeles Times about places you may not have tried yet, but ought to.

iTunes Ratings

25 Ratings
Average Ratings
24
0
0
1
0

RIP

By LA times fan - Apr 10 2019
Read more
Missing Jonathan Gold.

iTunes Ratings

25 Ratings
Average Ratings
24
0
0
1
0

RIP

By LA times fan - Apr 10 2019
Read more
Missing Jonathan Gold.

Listen to:

Cover image of Good Food on the Road

Good Food on the Road

Updated 6 days ago

Read more

KCRW’s Good Food host Evan Kleiman talks with Pulitzer Prize-winning food writer, the late and great Jonathan Gold of The Los Angeles Times about places you may not have tried yet, but ought to.

Jonathan Gold steps into David Chang's orbit at Majordomo

Podcast cover
Read more


Jonathan Gold calls David Chang’s galbi-seasoned smoked short rib a remarkable
dish, though “a commitment” for the diner at $190. Photo by Andrew Bezek.

Majordomo is Momofuku founder and chef David Chang’s first restaurant in Southern California and possibly LA’s most talked-about opening of the year. Jonathan Gold prefaces his review of Majordomo by noting that he and Chang have a prior history. For instance, he’s been featured in multiple episodes in Chang’s Netflix series Ugly Delicious and once even wrote for Chang’s now-defunct food magazine, Lucky Peach. Gold nonetheless puts his game face on, recounting the highlights from Majordomo’s Korean-inspired menu.

Hear more about David Chang's inspiration for Majordomo in our special extended interview from March 31, 2018.

Majordomo: 1725 Naud St., Los Angeles | (323) 545-4880

Apr 20 2018

3mins

Play

Remembering Jonathan Gold's favorite food flicks

Podcast cover
Read more

In movies, food can represent many things. The documentary “Udon” depicts noodle making as an all-consuming obsession. In the 1995 rom-com “Christmas in Connecticut,” two unlikely lovers are brought together in the kitchen. And in the Wes Anderson film “Grand Budapest Hotel,” a baker uses her patisserie as an opportunity to help a love interest escape prison. In each of LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold’s recommended films, food is the active ingredient that brings people together. Find out what else made the list!

*This segment originally aired on June 8, 2018. KCRW is re-sharing it this weekend to commemorate the one-year anniversary of Jonathan Gold's passing.

Jun 08 2018

3mins

Play

Jonathan Gold finds breathtaking fare while dining in Tokyo

Podcast cover
Read more

“What’s the closest I’ll ever come to drinking a tree?” An answer to this question isn’t what Jonathan Gold expected to find at Narisawa in Tokyo. Alas, the LA Times food critic found himself sipping from a wooden jigger filled with oak-flavored water just before dining on what Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa calls “Satoyama Scenery,” a plate made from raw wood, topped with moss-like garnishes, accompanied by small speakers playing audio from the nearby forest. Before this innovative chef made his way to California for the LA Food Bowl, Gold thought he should fly to Tokyo and try Narisawa’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant. Gold was also moved by the exquisitely aged fish at Sushi Kimura, an eight-table sushi house south of Tokyo.


“Satoyama Scenery” is one of the Japanese mountainside-inspired dishes
available at Yoshihiro Narisawa’s Toyko restaurant. Photo courtesy of Narisawa.

May 25 2018

3mins

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Jonathan Gold dishes on his favorites spots in LA's Koreatown

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A scalding hot pot of soon tofu soup is a must order
when visiting Koreatown. Photo by T.Tseng.

The Los Angeles Times’ “Ultimate Guide to Koreatown” covers everything the 2.7-mile neighborhood has to offer: spas, restaurants, markets, bars and more. Jonathan Gold notes that Los Angeles has the largest population of Koreans outside of Korea. Which means there’s no shortage of destination-worthy restaurants in this area serving up specialty dishes like soft tofu soup and short rib stew.

Mar 03 2018

3mins

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Jonathan Gold finds magical nostalgia at Freedman's in Silver Lake

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Siblings Amanda and Jonah Freedman, chef Liz Johnson, and co-owner
Nicholas Papadatos in front of their east side delicatessen. Photo by Louis DeCaprio.

When LA Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold first stepped into the new eastside delicatessen Freedman’s, he was delighted to find modern, inventive takes on Jewish staples from head chef and Noma alum Liz Johnson. The tableside sliced brisket, fried chicken skin sandwiches, cured fish on bagels, and what Jonathan describes as the “only good black-and-white cookie” he’s ever eaten will keep him returning for more.

Freedman’s: 2619 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026 | (213) 568-3754


Sliced tableside, the brisket at Freedman’s is unbelievably luscious.
Photo by DYLAN + JENI.

Jun 01 2018

4mins

Play

Jonathan Gold praises Travis Lett's dive into Japanese gastropub fare at MTN in Venice

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These temaki (hand rolls) are among the stars of Travis Lett’s
Izakaya menu at MTN. Photo by Ashley Randall.

Travis Lett is credited with defining Venice’s culinary identity with his modern Californian restaurants Gjusta and Gjelina. However, the James Beard Award-nominated chef recently turned his attention to Japanese izakaya fare with his latest Venice opening, MTN. LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold believes that Lett’s rigorous attention to craft and tradition is authentically Japanese. Although he says the temaki, Dungeness crab ramen, and expertly poured beers are not to be ignored, he was most impressed by Lett’s deft touch with vegetables.

MTN: 1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291 | (424) 465-3313

Jun 29 2018

4mins

Play

Carolina Miranda on Jonathan's review of Simon LA

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Carolina Miranda talks with Jonathan Gold at the USC Annenberg School
of Communications in 2017. Courtesy of Carolina Miranda.

As the world mourns the loss of Pulitzer prize-winning food writer Jonathan Gold, we wanted to recall some of our favorite pieces that he wrote. Carolina Miranda is an arts and culture writer for the LA Times. She joins Evan to talk about the magical prose of “L.A. Simonized,” Jonathan’s 2006 review of the now-shuttered restaurant Simon LA near the Beverly Center.

Jul 27 2018

4mins

Play

Jonathan Gold visits the freshly reopened Noma in Copenhagen

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With Noma’s reopening came its reimagining. Photo via Wikimedia.

Chef René Redzepi appears to be a maniac for reinvention, starting with how the world sees and eats Nordic food. With a brand new space and menu that spotlights seafood customary to Denmark, Redzepi is interested in expanding the Scandinavian culinary conversation. Although this fine dining establishment has been called one of the most influential restaurants in the world, Los Angeles Times food critic Jonathan Gold says it’s Redzepi’s “restless soul” that pushes the menu’s evolution. Gold also says Noma could have easily stayed “that restaurant that serves pickled rose petals to rich tourists.” But thankfully, Redzepi refuses to stagnate.

Noma: Refshalevej 96, 1432 København K, Denmark


The Oyster and the Ocean at Noma in Copenhagen. Photo by Sarah Aukerman.

Mar 30 2018

3mins

Play

Jonathan Gold turns up the heat at Chongqing Special Noodles

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It’s no secret that LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold loves Sichuanese cuisine, particularly that of the city of Chengdu. But this week, he’s breaking down a different kind of Sichuanese food that makes his mouth burn and smile at the same time: Chongqing-Sichuan cuisine. The former chef at Best Noodle House in Rosemead left to create the San Gabriel establishment Chongqing Special Noodles. His pulled noodles come in a variety of widths and shapes, but many dishes share a vibrant red color and adventurous spice level. Pro-tip from Gold as well as all the panelists from last month’s Sichuan Summit: always order the twice-cooked pork.


The noodles at Chongqing Special Noodles might make you see red
(if you aren’t a fan of Sichuan peppercorns). Photo by Nick Liao.

Jun 22 2018

3mins

Play

Jonathan Gold dines at The Hearth & Hound on Sunset

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April Bloomfield boasts a vegetable-centric menu with standouts like the
cabbage with oyster emulsion. Photo by Sierra Prescott.

Jonathan Gold visited The Hearth & Hound in Hollywood four times before writing his review for the LA Times. Even though the food is craveable, dining at an establishment co-owned by Ken Friedman forces diners to make a difficult choice. Should eaters support a talented woman chef, something the industry needs more of? Or should they vote with their wallets and refuse to support someone accused of misconduct? For Jonathan, Chef April Bloomfield’s rare talent and culinary perspective are reasons enough to go. Her menu revolves around open-fire cooking and surprising vegetable dishes like charred chicories with fromage blanc and cabbage with oyster emulsion.

Hearth & Hound: 6530 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90028 | (323) 320-4022

Feb 24 2018

3mins

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A lifetime of friendship with Jonathan Gold

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Novelist Jervey Tervalon met Jonathan Gold when they were both in high school. They became great friends, sharing many fantastic meals and adventures over the decades. Tervalon recalls their long friendship and reads a poem dedicated to the late food critic.


Longtime friends Jervey Tervalon and Jonathan Gold. Photo by Jinghuan Liu Tervalon.

Adventures in Life and Food With JGold
By Jervey Tervalon
07/29/2018

I knew you since high school, hanging in your
Mom’s library at Dorsey

We both kicked it on Hollywood corners
Saw the black dude with curlers and shower cap
Miming to opera records, and them freaks
And those bookstores

Remember a lifetime later you started calling
Me your young friend though I was 2 years older
And we started to roll through your LA and I learned
You ate everything.

We were at another place where Hollywood agents ate.
And the salmon mousse tasted weird
salt that wouldn’t dissolve, you said it was fine
Until you tried it and said, don’t eat it
That’s not salt, it’s glass; the jar had imploded

Damn…so weird and on the way home you made
That right on La Cienega and the police pulled us
Over and you had those expired tags and went all Falstaff
On those rollers and one touched his gun and
Then they towed the truck and we were stuck.
Under a freeway overpass at midnight in a gangster hood
Until Laurie rescued us.

Remember that time I was on the phone with Jinghuan in China
You noticed police behind us
Expired tags no thing at all
Until they ordered me out the truck at gun point handcuffed
Us both on Beverly Blvd, I politely suggested
That your were a famous food writer, you whispered
Don’t bother they won’t listen
Finally they realized that you weren’t an escaped
Felon who shot at cops and they let us go to
That seafood joint

Remember those tasteless fat olives that were really water-bugs
And that cold fresh blood soup?

Remember those not so great crickets and that
Mescal bar at 4am in Guadalajara where we LA writers
enjoyed Tapatío generosity

Remember the Rose Parade at Sumi’s, and that frigid horizontal rain,
Our brood riding in the truck bed to and fro and there we ate cinnamon
Rolls while Elise and Leon broke into a break dance then home for
Black-eyed peas to celebrate the New Year

Remember Santa Barbara where Jinghuan and
I were to be married and you were the best man and
Signed your name where hers was supposed to be and
The justice of the peace thought we were getting hitched

Remember awards and books
And travels and endless brilliant meals at your
House.

Remember the travails and happiness of
Family and friends.

Remember that you belong to Los Angeles to us All
In your singular herculean generosity
We remember it All and we will remember you.
As we look at Los Angeles and ourselves through Gold eyes.

And I remember the truth: I never ate better than at your house.

Sep 21 2018

3mins

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Zach Brooks: The impact of Jonathan Gold's review of Vespertine

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When Vespertine topped Jonathan Gold’s annual 101 Best Restaurants list last year, it left many readers baffled. How did the man known for championing strip-mall cafes put chef Jordan Kahn’s conceptual dining experience above the mom-and-pop shops he frequented? Smorgasburg LA’s general manager Zach Brooks remembers how Gold’s review provided a balance to all the extreme opinions swirling around the restaurant in the first few months after it opened. But don’t ask him if he’s eaten there.


The white asparagus at Vespertine. Photo by Jeff Elstone.

Vespertine: 3599 Hayden Ave, Culver City, CA 90232

Sep 07 2018

4mins

Play

Tien Nguyen: Jonathan Gold on Nha Trang

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"San Gabriel noodle shops are a particular interest of mine, as you have probably determined — a subject I deem to be worth a lifetime of study,” wrote Jonathan Gold in his 2011 review of Nha Trang in San Gabriel. As an Asian-American writer, Tien Nguyen says she was delighted by Jonathan’s firm rebuttal to those who thought he spent too much time in the San Gabriel Valley. Nguyen also talks to Evan about Nha Trang, a tiny restaurant specializing in Central Vietnamese noodles such as bun bo hue and pho ga.

Nha Trang: 311 E. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel | (626) 572-7638

*This segment originally aired on Aug 31, 2018. KCRW is re-sharing it this weekend to commemorate the one-year anniversary of Jonathan Gold's passing.

Aug 31 2018

4mins

Play

Jonathan Gold's 2007 review of Jitlada

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In 2007, Pulitzer Prize-winning food writer Jonathan Gold rediscovered Jitlada, proclaiming it “the spiciest Thai restaurant of the year.” Jitlada had been around for ages and was known as the first "nice" Thai restaurant in Hollywood. Just a year prior to Gold’s visit, the restaurant was bought by a family from Southern Thailand who revamped the menu to include their region’s classic dishes, some of the the hottest in all of Thai cooking. It’s no surprise Jonathan Gold was a regular patron.


Mussels in green curry at Jitlada in Hollywood. Photo via TheDeliciousLife/CC.

Jitlada Thai Restaurant: 5233 1/2 W Sunset Blvd | 323-667-9809

Aug 24 2018

3mins

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Daniel Hernandez: Jonathan Gold on El Parian

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When L.A. Taco editor Daniel Hernandez was living in Mexico, he met up with Jonathan Gold and his spouse Laurie Ochoa. The couple was in town for Feria Internacional del Libro, the second-largest book fair in the world, which showcases the literature of a different Latin-American country each year. Hernandez led the couple on a taco crawl through the streets of Guadalajara, where they sampled the region’s famous birria, or spicy goat stew. When Gold returned to Los Angeles, he drew upon that experience for his LA Weekly review of Guadalajara-style restaurant El Parian. Hernandez reads an excerpt from Gold’s review.
L.A. Taco editor, Daniel Hernandez. Photo by Zocalo Public Square/2009.

El Parian: 1528 Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90015 | (213) 386-7361

Aug 17 2018

3mins

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Mona Holmes: Jonathan Gold's 1989 story on N.W.A.

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Before Jonathan Gold turned his attention entirely toward food, he was primarily known for his music writing. Eater reporter Mona Holmes recalls the first time she read Gold’s richly detailed feature on N.W.A. that he wrote for the LA Weekly in 1989. She shares a passage about the musicality of the group’s single, “Straight Outta Compton.”


Mona Holmes remembers reading Jonathan Gold’s
cover story on landmark rap group N.W.A. in 1989.

Aug 10 2018

3mins

Play

Laura Gabbert: Jonathan Gold's 1992 piece on the LA Riots

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“City of Gold” documentarian Laura Gabbert discusses her favorite piece of Jonathan Gold’s writing: his meditation on the Los Angeles riots in 1992, titled “A Neighborhood Just West of Downtown.”


Documentarian Laura Gabbert spent five years trailing Pulitzer Prize-winning.
Credit: Laura Gabbert.

Aug 03 2018

3mins

Play

Carolina Miranda on Jonathan's review of Simon LA

Podcast cover
Read more


Carolina Miranda talks with Jonathan Gold at the USC Annenberg School
of Communications in 2017. Courtesy of Carolina Miranda.

As the world mourns the loss of Pulitzer prize-winning food writer Jonathan Gold, we wanted to recall some of our favorite pieces that he wrote. Carolina Miranda is an arts and culture writer for the LA Times. She joins Evan to talk about the magical prose of “L.A. Simonized,” Jonathan’s 2006 review of the now-shuttered restaurant Simon LA near the Beverly Center.

Jul 27 2018

4mins

Play

Jonathan Gold praises Travis Lett's dive into Japanese gastropub fare at MTN in Venice

Podcast cover
Read more


These temaki (hand rolls) are among the stars of Travis Lett’s
Izakaya menu at MTN. Photo by Ashley Randall.

Travis Lett is credited with defining Venice’s culinary identity with his modern Californian restaurants Gjusta and Gjelina. However, the James Beard Award-nominated chef recently turned his attention to Japanese izakaya fare with his latest Venice opening, MTN. LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold believes that Lett’s rigorous attention to craft and tradition is authentically Japanese. Although he says the temaki, Dungeness crab ramen, and expertly poured beers are not to be ignored, he was most impressed by Lett’s deft touch with vegetables.

MTN: 1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291 | (424) 465-3313

Jun 29 2018

4mins

Play

Jonathan Gold turns up the heat at Chongqing Special Noodles

Podcast cover
Read more

It’s no secret that LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold loves Sichuanese cuisine, particularly that of the city of Chengdu. But this week, he’s breaking down a different kind of Sichuanese food that makes his mouth burn and smile at the same time: Chongqing-Sichuan cuisine. The former chef at Best Noodle House in Rosemead left to create the San Gabriel establishment Chongqing Special Noodles. His pulled noodles come in a variety of widths and shapes, but many dishes share a vibrant red color and adventurous spice level. Pro-tip from Gold as well as all the panelists from last month’s Sichuan Summit: always order the twice-cooked pork.


The noodles at Chongqing Special Noodles might make you see red
(if you aren’t a fan of Sichuan peppercorns). Photo by Nick Liao.

Jun 22 2018

3mins

Play

Remembering Jonathan Gold's favorite food flicks

Podcast cover
Read more

In movies, food can represent many things. The documentary “Udon” depicts noodle making as an all-consuming obsession. In the 1995 rom-com “Christmas in Connecticut,” two unlikely lovers are brought together in the kitchen. And in the Wes Anderson film “Grand Budapest Hotel,” a baker uses her patisserie as an opportunity to help a love interest escape prison. In each of LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold’s recommended films, food is the active ingredient that brings people together. Find out what else made the list!

*This segment originally aired on June 8, 2018. KCRW is re-sharing it this weekend to commemorate the one-year anniversary of Jonathan Gold's passing.

Jun 08 2018

3mins

Play

Jonathan Gold finds magical nostalgia at Freedman's in Silver Lake

Podcast cover
Read more


Siblings Amanda and Jonah Freedman, chef Liz Johnson, and co-owner
Nicholas Papadatos in front of their east side delicatessen. Photo by Louis DeCaprio.

When LA Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold first stepped into the new eastside delicatessen Freedman’s, he was delighted to find modern, inventive takes on Jewish staples from head chef and Noma alum Liz Johnson. The tableside sliced brisket, fried chicken skin sandwiches, cured fish on bagels, and what Jonathan describes as the “only good black-and-white cookie” he’s ever eaten will keep him returning for more.

Freedman’s: 2619 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026 | (213) 568-3754


Sliced tableside, the brisket at Freedman’s is unbelievably luscious.
Photo by DYLAN + JENI.

Jun 01 2018

4mins

Play

Jonathan Gold finds breathtaking fare while dining in Tokyo

Podcast cover
Read more

“What’s the closest I’ll ever come to drinking a tree?” An answer to this question isn’t what Jonathan Gold expected to find at Narisawa in Tokyo. Alas, the LA Times food critic found himself sipping from a wooden jigger filled with oak-flavored water just before dining on what Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa calls “Satoyama Scenery,” a plate made from raw wood, topped with moss-like garnishes, accompanied by small speakers playing audio from the nearby forest. Before this innovative chef made his way to California for the LA Food Bowl, Gold thought he should fly to Tokyo and try Narisawa’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant. Gold was also moved by the exquisitely aged fish at Sushi Kimura, an eight-table sushi house south of Tokyo.


“Satoyama Scenery” is one of the Japanese mountainside-inspired dishes
available at Yoshihiro Narisawa’s Toyko restaurant. Photo courtesy of Narisawa.

May 25 2018

3mins

Play

Jonathan Gold enjoys Nayarit-Sinaloan style ceviche at El Coraloense in Bell Gardens

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Fresh ceviche tostada topped with crema and pineapple. Courtesy of El Coraloense.

Fresh ingredients like shrimp, fish, and abalone are overflowing at El Coraloense in Bell Gardens, and LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold says the generous portions and vibrant seafood keep him coming back. Although he says the aguachile shrimp plate is covered with a brown sauce and the shrimp look like some prosthetics effect from "Alien", Gold concludes the family-friendly eatery is bringing wonderful Nayarit-Sinaloan style ceviche to the greater LA area.


The aguachile at El Coraloense may have an interesting appearance,
but the flavors are mouth-watering. Photo courtesy of El Coraloense.

El Coraloense: 6600 Florence Ave. Bell Gardens, Ca 90201 

May 18 2018

4mins

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Jonathan Gold recounts the LA Times Food Bowl's Sichuan Summit

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Yu Bo hosts a food demo at the LA Food Bowl “Sichuan Summit.”
Photo by @JenJPhoto

The LA Times Food Bowl is the largest food festival the city has ever seen. Events run throughout May, and Jonathan Gold is often at the center of all the fun. On May 4, the Food Bowl hosted the “Sichuan Summit.” Gold moderated a panel featuring legendary chef Yu Bo and writer Fuchsia Dunlop. The event also brought together some of the best Sichuan chefs from Los Angeles to collaborate on a a meal. Gold also talks about the Food Bowl’s Night Market from May 16 to 20, an open-to-the-public event where eaters get to mingle with their favorite chefs.

May 11 2018

3mins

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Jonathan Gold eats clay pot rice at Nature Pagoda in San Gabriel

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Four mixed herb with black chicken soup from
Nature Pagoda in San Gabriel. Photo by Stan Lee.

Jonathan Gold has been eating at Nature Pagoda for over a decade. Once he got around to reviewing it, Gold found that the restaurant is the only place in the San Gabriel Valley specializing in clay pot rice. The variety of clay pots they offer is rather remarkable. Diners can order pots with fresh chicken and lily flowers, or fresh frog, as well as herbal soups made with crocodile meat. But the most important part of the meal, according to Gold, happens at the bottom of the pot.

Nature Pagoda: 312 W Valley Blvd, San Gabriel, CA 91776 | (626) 570-8333


Preserved meat claypot rice at Nature Pagoda. Photo by Stan Lee.

Apr 27 2018

3mins

Play

Jonathan Gold steps into David Chang's orbit at Majordomo

Podcast cover
Read more


Jonathan Gold calls David Chang’s galbi-seasoned smoked short rib a remarkable
dish, though “a commitment” for the diner at $190. Photo by Andrew Bezek.

Majordomo is Momofuku founder and chef David Chang’s first restaurant in Southern California and possibly LA’s most talked-about opening of the year. Jonathan Gold prefaces his review of Majordomo by noting that he and Chang have a prior history. For instance, he’s been featured in multiple episodes in Chang’s Netflix series Ugly Delicious and once even wrote for Chang’s now-defunct food magazine, Lucky Peach. Gold nonetheless puts his game face on, recounting the highlights from Majordomo’s Korean-inspired menu.

Hear more about David Chang's inspiration for Majordomo in our special extended interview from March 31, 2018.

Majordomo: 1725 Naud St., Los Angeles | (323) 545-4880

Apr 20 2018

3mins

Play

Jonathan Gold tries the exquisite sushi at Shiki Beverly Hills

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Back in Japan, Morihiro “Mori" Onodera studied under famed sushi chef Jiro Ono (the subject of the 2011 documentary “Jiro Dreams of Sushi”) and has the chops to prove it. After his Michelin-starred LA restaurant Mori Sushi closed in 2011, loyal fans have awaited his return to the sushi counter. Now at Shiki Beverly Hills, Onodera and his omakase menus recently left Los Angeles Times food critic Jonathan Gold in quiet awe of the chef’s careful hand and exquisite simplicity. Although the restaurant is large, the exactitude displayed in each of Chef Mori’s dishes gives sushi connoisseurs the five-star dining experience they are hoping for.


Chef Mori Onodera and Executive Chef Nao Sugiyama
at Shiki Beverly Hills. Photo courtesy of Shiki Beverly Hills.


Chef Mori Onodera returns to the sushi bar at Shiki Beverly Hills,
after a seven year hiatus. Photo courtesy of Shiki Beverly Hills.

Apr 06 2018

3mins

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Jonathan Gold visits the freshly reopened Noma in Copenhagen

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With Noma’s reopening came its reimagining. Photo via Wikimedia.

Chef René Redzepi appears to be a maniac for reinvention, starting with how the world sees and eats Nordic food. With a brand new space and menu that spotlights seafood customary to Denmark, Redzepi is interested in expanding the Scandinavian culinary conversation. Although this fine dining establishment has been called one of the most influential restaurants in the world, Los Angeles Times food critic Jonathan Gold says it’s Redzepi’s “restless soul” that pushes the menu’s evolution. Gold also says Noma could have easily stayed “that restaurant that serves pickled rose petals to rich tourists.” But thankfully, Redzepi refuses to stagnate.

Noma: Refshalevej 96, 1432 København K, Denmark


The Oyster and the Ocean at Noma in Copenhagen. Photo by Sarah Aukerman.

Mar 30 2018

3mins

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Jonathan Gold eats his veggies at The Exchange in DTLA

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Chef Alex Chang is rethinking Israeli classics at The Exchange,
courtesy of Freehand LA.

Chef Alex Chang spearheads the vegetable-centric menu at The Exchange, located inside the Freehand Hotel in downtown. When reviewing a new restaurant, LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold tries to order something different each visit. But at The Exchange, Gold could not stop himself from ordering the diced avocado with herbs and toasted seeds every meal. Gold also says the new restaurant has the best schug, the spicy Yemenite herb garlic sauce, in all of LA.


A Middle Eastern spread, in the heart of Downtown LA. Photo by Rick Poon.

The Exchange: 416 W. 8th St., Los Angeles, CA 90014 | 213-395-9531

Mar 23 2018

3mins

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