In this episode, Steve House is joined by his longtime friend and climbing parter Barry Blanchard. As they exchange stories about coping with the aftermath of tragedies amongst the peaks they reflect on the ways specific events have shaped their experiences moving forward, and how they, and others they know, have worked through these events as individuals. For more information on Mountain MuskOx, please visit:https://www.mountainmuskox.com/
Barry Blanchard, Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn on Mt. Robson
The Cutting Edge
Yuh-hai-has-kun (Mt. Robson) is one of North America's greatest peaks, despite rising to less than 4,000 meters or 13,000 feet. In early October, Ethan Berman (U.S.) and Uisdean Hawthorn (Scotland) completed a rare new route to the summit, climbing a 2,000-meter line up the Emperor Face, left of the classic Infinite Patience. In this episode, we speak with both men about their profound experience on the mountain, and we also chat with Barry Blanchard, who put up Infinite Patience in 2002 with Eric Dumerac and Philippe Pellet, after many attempts. It's a Robson double-header!The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (hilleberg.com). This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.
On a recent trip to California I got to spend a day at the Anatometal facilities in Santa Cruz. Founder and CEO Barry Blanchard gave me an extensive tour then sat down to record this interview. We talked about the origin's of not only his company but of the body jewelry designs, materials, and threading our industry uses today. It was an in-depth discussion on their green manufacturing process, the expansion that helped reduce their wait time from months to weeks, and their future plans. Give the show a 5 star rating and review on itunes. Like and follow the show at: https://www.facebook.com/piercingwizardpodcast/ and https://www.instagram.com/piercingwizardpodcast/. Support the show at www.patreon.com/ryanpba.
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll dive into the final segment of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard.In the first episode, we heard Barry tell stories of his early years in the Canadian Rockies, as well as some of the formative partnerships he developed during that time. We heard about iconic routes like The Andromeda Strain, The North Pillar of North Twin, and the east face of Mount Fay to name a few. But there was one mountain - a mountain that is central to my own climbing career - that I wanted to spend a little more time talking with Barry about. And that majestic peak is Mount Robson.Rising over 10,000 feet from the Fraser River Valley, Robson is the highest mountain in the Canadian Rockies. It’s also one of the most recognizable mountains in North America, if not the world, drawing hundreds of thousands of tourists each year, hoping to catch a glimpse of it’s frosty summit. But to mountaineers, Robson is much more than a photo opportunity. Rather, it is a sacred destination. I place to test one’s self. All the mountain’s aspects feature classic routes - and some walls, like the Emperor Face - harbor some of the biggest and most challenging lines in North America.One of these lines is called Infinite Patience - a route Barry established up the right side of the Emperor Face in 2002 with partners Eric Dumerac and Phillipe Pellet.I asked Barry to talk about his years long obsession with Robson, why the mountain is meaningful to him, and what it took to finally make it up Infinite Patience after years of attempts.Music by Evan PhillipsSupport the show at PatreonSponsors:Alaska Rock GymThe Hoarding Marmot
On today’s episode of The Firn Line, we’ll delve into the first of a two-part series with Canadian Rockies legend, Barry Blanchard.Barry’s name is synonymous with some of the most iconic lines in the Canadian Rockies - and his first ascents on these mythical walls are many: from the Andromeda Strain - to the north pillar of North Twin - to a gutsy climb on Mount Cephran called M-16 - and a visionary line of beauty up mount Robson’s emperor face.But like many alpinists, Barry’s career has been defined just as much by strong partnerships and friendships he’s forged, than by the mountains themselves - and this was especially evident during a recent conversation we had.We talked about everything, from his early experiences in the Rockies, to a string of ascents in the early to mid 80’s with Dave Cheesmond, and much much more.Music by Evan PhillipsSupport the show at PatreonSponsors:Alaska Rock GymThe Hoarding Marmot
In 1969, at the age of nine, Barry Blanchard sat on a Greyhound bus as a young woman read to him from the pages of the mountaineering classic, The White Spider. Five decades later, alpinist and mountain guide Barry Blanchard recalls how the call of the mountains transformed his life.
In our 8th and final episode of season two … we sit down with Barry Blanchard, one of the most bold and accomplished alpine climbers the world has ever seen. Blanchard is best known for his dangerous, cutting-edge ascents on high alpine faces across the globe. Many of Barry’s first ascents were well before their time and have consequently become test pieces for generations following in his footsteps. Most notably, these include the first ascent of Infinite Patience on the Emperor Face of Mt. Robson, the first ascent of the North Pillar of North Twin, a first ascent on the North Face of Les Droites, and a heroic attempt on the 15,000-foot Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat. He is perhaps most well known for outrageous alpine climbing feats with partners Mark Twight, Steve House, David Cheeseman and Scott Backes. The “brotherhood” as they are often referred to, actively challenged death on bold and cold alpine faces in what can only be considered a golden era of alpine climbing. We talk at length about his death-defying alpine climbing feats amidst a life wrought with hardship, personal struggle and ultimate redemption. Barry and I take a deep dive into how growing up fatherless in a mixed race family led to his rebellious alpine climbing mentality, how the closest bonds in his life have been realized through the power of partnerships, and how the great spirit has guided him on cold faces in order to abate the lethal risk of alpine climbing. Barry refers to alpinism as “pushing the door of a radiant, dangerous cathedral” and his philosophical take on the sport can be summed up in one beautiful and simple quote from his book “The Calling:"BARRY WRITES “WHAT BINDS US IS THE BOND OF BROTHERS, LINKED BY THE BELIEF THAT ACTION IS VIRTUE AND BY COMMITMENT TO CLIMBING MOUNTAINS VIA THEIR MOST COMPELLING LINES, IN SMALL PARTNERSHIPS, WITH ONLY THE THE TIME-HONORED ACCOUTREMENTS OF A ROPE, A RACK AND A PACK.” I hope you enjoy a deep and intimate conversation with one of the most fascinating, kind and intellectual people I have ever had the honor of recording with.
Barry Blanchard is a Canadian alpinist who in the 80's and 90's established highly technical routes in the Canadian Rockies and the Himalaya. Throughout his childhood, he faced challenges of poverty and growing up "a dark-skinned, brown-eyed, half-breed kid" in a predominantly white, affluent area. His transformation from a poor kid from the wrong side of the tracks to one of the most respected alpinists in the world is chronicled in his most recent book The Calling: A Life Rocked by the Mountains.