Jon Cardwell's guest appearances

Jon Cardwell

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

The Power Company Podcast

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Jared Vagy

Heather Weidner

Charlie Manganiello

Steve Bechtel

Kyra Condie

Steve Maisch

Natasha Barnes

Hazel Findlay

Bill Ramsey

Ben Moon

Jonathan Siegrist

Dru Mack

Neely Quinn

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk

Leif Gasch

OwlTail

Jon Cardwell is a professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and sport climbing. Jon’s tick list includes V15, multiple 5.15a’s, and hundreds of 5.14s. We talked about lessons learned from ‘Biographie’ and ‘La Rambla’, about his off-season and pre-training modes, about bouldering for sport climbing, and about his current 5.15 project at The Fortress in Colorado.  Support on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-cardwell  Nuggets:  4:05 – Training at home during quarantine, and forced time off from climbing  5:44 – Taking time off over the holidays, and setting goals for the new year  8:14 – How Jon trains for a goal route (broad strokes)  10:45 – Tapering, the performance window, and incorporating hiking when preparing for ‘Biographie’  14:04 – Jon’s typical climbing schedule when trying a 5.15 project, and differences between ‘Biographie’ and ‘La Rambla’  15:46 – Sending ‘La Lambla’, and taking a step back to recharge for a hard project  20:03 – Jon’s current 5.15 project, and how his training has changed vs. previous 5.15s  23:24 – More details about Jon’s project  28:50 – Running to circulate blood and aid recovery  30:31 – Breakdown of project pitch 1  33:32 – Skin cooling, and portable fans as the future of sport climbing  37:48 – Using the tension board, Jon’s “pre-training” mode(s), and bouldering for sport climbing  43:16 – Outdoor vs. indoor bouldering  46:53 – Moderate days and enjoying climbing  50:55 – Jon’s trips to Ten Sleep this summer  53:06 – Memorable climbs/sends that didn’t make the headlines, and Carlo’s “Triple 14” day  59:36 – ‘Misty Wall’  1:09:40 – Patron Question: What are some of Jon’s favorite FiveTen shoes?  1:12:43 – Patron Question: Do you have any takeaways from dealing with climbing finger injuries?  1:19:16 – Thoughts on preventing finger injuries, and when to let go  1:24:01 – Advice for newer climbers (first few years)  1:28:06 – Advice for climbers with limited access to outdoor climbing, and coaching kids  1:32:52 – Route setting  1:36:06 – Moving toward a new career  1:37:55 – One of the best decisions Jon has ever made  1:39:55 – Photography, dog walking, and being in the mountains  1:40:43 – Gratitude for health  1:42:02 – Favorite post-climb meal  1:42:52 – ‘The Wind-Up Bird’  

Jon Cardwell is a professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and sport climbing. Jon’s tick list includes V15, multiple 5.15a’s, and hundreds of 5.14s. We talked about lessons learned from ‘Biographie’ and ‘La Rambla’, about his off-season and pre-training modes, about bouldering for sport climbing, and about his current 5.15 project at The Fortress in Colorado.  Support on Patreon:  <a href="http://www.patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  </a>Show Notes:  <a href="http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-cardwell" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jon-cardwell  </a>Nuggets:  4:05 – Training at home during quarantine, and forced time off from climbing  5:44 – Taking time off over the holidays, and setting goals for the new year  8:14 – How Jon trains for a goal route (broad strokes)  10:45 – Tapering, the performance window, and incorporating hiking when preparing for ‘Biographie’  14:04 – Jon’s typical climbing schedule when trying a 5.15 project, and differences between ‘Biographie’ and ‘La Rambla’  15:46 – Sending ‘La Lambla’, and taking a step back to recharge for a hard project  20:03 – Jon’s current 5.15 project, and how his training has changed vs. previous 5.15s  23:24 – More details about Jon’s project  28:50 – Running to circulate blood and aid recovery  30:31 – Breakdown of project pitch 1  33:32 – Skin cooling, and portable fans as the future of sport climbing  37:48 – Using the tension board, Jon’s “pre-training” mode(s), and bouldering for sport climbing  43:16 – Outdoor vs. indoor bouldering  46:53 – Moderate days and enjoying climbing  50:55 – Jon’s trips to Ten Sleep this summer  53:06 – Memorable climbs/sends that didn’t make the headlines, and Carlo’s “Triple 14” day  59:36 – ‘Misty Wall’  1:09:40 – Patron Question: What are some of Jon’s favorite FiveTen shoes?  1:12:43 – Patron Question: Do you have any takeaways from dealing with climbing finger injuries?  1:19:16 – Thoughts on preventing finger injuries, and when to let go  1:24:01 – Advice for newer climbers (first few years)  1:28:06 – Advice for climbers with limited access to outdoor climbing, and coaching kids  1:32:52 – Route setting  1:36:06 – Moving toward a new career  1:37:55 – One of the best decisions Jon has ever made  1:39:55 – Photography, dog walking, and being in the mountains  1:40:43 – Gratitude for health  1:42:02 – Favorite post-climb meal  1:42:52 – ‘The Wind-Up Bird’

EP 50: Jon Cardwell — Projecting 5.15, Pre-Training Modes, and Bouldering for Sport Climbing

In this episode I sit down with professional climber, routesetter, and youth coach, Jon Cardwell, and talk about the challenges inherent to long distance projecting.  Jon recently completed his long term project, Biographie (5.15a), in Ceuse, over 5,000 miles from his home.  And you thought 150 miles was too far...We talk about the mental and emotional toll, as well as how he structured his physical training with such a big, overseas objective in mind.  We go deep into the emotions of dealing with failure, and how it affects your mindset when you can't try your project every day.  Check out www.powercompanyclimbing.com for all of your training needs!

In this episode I sit down with professional climber, routesetter, and youth coach, Jon Cardwell, and talk about the challenges inherent to long distance projecting.  Jon recently completed his long term project, Biographie (5.15a), in Ceuse, over 5,000 miles from his home.  And you thought 150 miles was too far... We talk about the mental and emotional toll, as well as how he structured his physical training with such a big, overseas objective in mind.  We go deep into the emotions of dealing with failure, and how it affects your mindset when you can't try your project every day.   Check out <a href="http://powercompanyclimbing.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">www.powercompanyclimbing.com</a> for all of your training needs!

Episode 9: Long Distance Projecting with Jon Cardwell

Direct Download: LINKDate: August 12th, 2015    (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.)About Jon Cardwell  Jon Cardwell is a 26 year-old Albuquerque native living in Boulder, Colorado, who climbs 5.14d and V15, along with being one of the top male bouldering competitors in the U.S. He's a sponsored climber and also holds jobs as a route setter and youth climbing coach at Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder. I've been hearing all about him crushing Rifle and the Fortress this year, so we sat down and talked about how he trains for that, what he's psyched on right now, and his plans to go back to France this year and finally do Biographie. He's a super humble, sweet and well-spoken guy, and I really enjoyed this conversation with him.What we talked about: How he trained for The Game (V15) How he trains for hard routes His attempt at Biographie (5.15a) this spring, and what he'll do differently next trip His successful Rifle season this year, including 5.14a onsights His unconventional use of the hangboard and campus board How he gives back as a coach His thoughts on dietThings We Mentioned Jon's Instagram Jon's FacebookDiscount on ArmAidIf you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely give it a look-see. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works. We wrote a glowing review about it here.  Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount! Training Programs for You Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.Please Review Us on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)Photo CreditThanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon!Thanks for listening!

Direct Download: <a href="http://traffic.libsyn.com/trainingbeta/Jon-Cardwell.mp3" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">LINK</a>Date: August 12th, 2015 <a href="http://www.armaid.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"></a> (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.)About Jon Cardwell Jon Cardwell is a 26 year-old Albuquerque native living in Boulder, Colorado, who climbs 5.14d and V15, along with being one of the top male bouldering competitors in the U.S. He's a sponsored climber and also holds jobs as a route setter and youth climbing coach at Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder. I've been hearing all about him crushing Rifle and the Fortress this year, so we sat down and talked about how he trains for that, what he's psyched on right now, and his plans to go back to France this year and finally do Biographie. He's a super humble, sweet and well-spoken guy, and I really enjoyed this conversation with him.What we talked about: <ul> <li>How he trained for The Game (V15)</li> <li>How he trains for hard routes</li> <li>His attempt at Biographie (5.15a) this spring, and what he'll do differently next trip</li> <li>His successful Rifle season this year, including 5.14a onsights</li> <li>His unconventional use of the hangboard and campus board</li> <li>How he gives back as a coach</li> <li>His thoughts on diet</li></ul>Things We Mentioned <ul> <li>Jon's <a href="https://instagram.com/jon_cardwell/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Instagram</a></li> <li>Jon's <a href="https://www.facebook.com/jon.cardwell.1" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Facebook</a></li></ul>Discount on ArmAid If you haven't heard of the ArmAid yet, definitely <a href="http://www.armaid.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">give it a look-see</a>. It's a nutcracker-type self-massage tool for your poor, overused arms, and it actually works. We wrote a glowing <a href="https://www.trainingbeta.com/armaid-review-by-jonathan-siegrist/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">review about it here.</a>  Use the code "climb" at checkout for a 10% discount!  Training Programs for You <ul> <li>Check out the <a href="http://www.trainingbeta.com/route-climbing-training-program" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Route Climbing Training Program</a> for route climbers of all abilities.</li> <li>Our other training programs: <a href="http://www.trainingbeta.com/climbing-training-programs" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Training Programs Page</a>.</li> <li>If you'd like to place an ad on the podcast, just email us at info@trainingbeta.com.</li></ul>Please Review Us on iTunes! <ul> <li>Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is <a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-trainingbeta-podcast/id827233918?mt=2" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">HERE</a>.</li> <li>Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes <a href="http://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/the-trainingbeta-podcast/id827233918?mt=2" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">here</a> to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)</li></ul>Photo Credit Thanks to Matty Hong for the photo of Jon!Thanks for listening!

TBP 030 :: Jon Cardwell on How He Climbs Hard Routes and Boulders